Wondering how to buy a dog crate? Let us explain...

I was making preparations to fly to Canada to pick up one of my dogs, and I had to buy a crate to transport him. I have used crates for training but had not purchased one for flight.

I found myself a bit overwhelmed by all the features and benefits, styles and price ranges. There is a lot to learn about dog crates! In this article, I share some of what I’ve learned.

The first consideration when you’re shopping for a dog crate (sometimes called a kennel) is to choose the product that fits your purpose.

Good crates are designed to:

• Train,
• Contain,
• or Transport

Size Matters

The size of your dog is very important. Your puppy may spend several hours inside the enclosure and should feel protected, not trapped. A training crate must be well ventilated and kept clean.

Ideally, the container should be just big enough for your dog to stand and turn around. (There should be 3 or 4 inches above the dog’s head when he stands up.) If your puppy is still in the growing stage you may want to consider renting a kennel in order to “trade up” to more appropriate sizes as your pet develops.

Like a Den

Domestic dogs are only a few genetic steps removed from their ancestors: wolves. In the wild, these animals raise their young, sleep and are protected from danger in dens. Using crates for in-home training reinforces your pet dog’s natural instinct to seek safety and comfort in a small, enclosed area.

Dogs do not typically soil their “dens,” so crates limit the animal’s access to areas that are off limits. They provide a certain amount of control while your puppy learns acceptable behaviors during house-training.

In the video below, from the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA), Lisa Mazzaferro, DVM, explains why crates are ideal for puppies in a new home:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjH92wbE9io

Training Guidelines

Review professional guidelines for crate training your dog. Recommendations from the US Humane Society include:

• Never use the crate as a punishment. Your dog will come to fear it and refuse to enter it.
• Don’t leave your dog inside for too long. A dog that’s crated day and night doesn’t get enough exercise or human interaction and can become depressed or anxious.
• Puppies younger than 6 months shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for that long. The same goes for adult dogs being housetrained. They can probably hold it, but they don’t know they’re supposed to.
• Crate your dog only until you can trust him not to destroy the house. After that, it should be a place he goes voluntarily.

Making the Crate Great

Designer dog crate from Frontgate Home Outfitters

As your dog grows and matures, a crate may become a source of containment. When training is administered effectively, your dog will return to the crate voluntarily to sleep or if there is some perceived danger, like thunderstorms. It will become his safe place.

Several companies present a line of upscale crates that integrate well into a room’s decor. Frontgate Home Outfitters created a catalog of “Luxury Pet Residence” crates. These innovative containers double as an attractive piece of furniture while providing your pet with a cozy space. Prices begin at $399.

There are occasions when a portable, soft crate may be necessary. Many evacuation shelters permit pets, provided they are properly contained — so the use of travel kennels may become critical during emergencies. Most pet stores and many discount retailers these in a variety of sizes and styles. Retail prices typically run less than $150.

Trains, Planes and Automobiles

The safety of your dog is a priority when you’re traveling. It is a best practice to always crate your dog when you are driving. Some states are considering legislation to require restraints for animals in automobiles.

Regardless of temperament and training, a loose pet can distract the driver and cause accidents that injure or kill the pet and other passengers.

Never leave an animal in a parked vehicle during hot weather. Most states enforce anti-cruelty laws and punish owners who leave their dogs in cars on hot days.

Safety tips related to cars:

• Leave adequate space around the crate when it’s packed in your vehicle.
• Let plenty of fresh air flow in and around the crate.
• Make sure the crate is buckled to the seat or securely attached to the floor of the car.
• Ensure that the locks and latches are safe and secure before traveling.

Airlines offer travel options for dogs (with some notable exceptions) provided that certain stipulations are satisfied. Crating your pet is mandatory on any airline regardless if the dog flies in the passenger cabin or in cargo. Dogs traveling on a commercial airline must be transported in an International Air Transport Association (IATA) compliant pet crate.

IATA minimum requirements include:

• The container must be large enough for the animal(s) to stand, turn around and lie down in.
• The kennel must be made of a sturdy plastic.
• The container must have a secure, spring loaded, all around locking system with the pins extending beyond the horizontal extrusions above and below the door.
• Although this is not an IATA requirement, many airlines are now requiring steel crate hardware instead of plastic fasteners.
• Both water and food bowls must be attached to the inside of the front door and be refillable from the outside of the container without opening the door.
• The container must have ventilation on all sides for international travel and three sides for domestic travel.
• The container must have “Live Animal” stickers on the top and sides in letters at least 1 inch tall.
• No wheels! If the container has wheels, these should be removed or taped securely so that the kennel cannot roll.
• The container must be identified with your pet’s name and owner’s contact information.

Check with the airline or rail line before travel for additional safety instructions. For more advice, see our article on travel tips.

Toting Toto

Who hasn’t seen celebrity photos of stars with their precious pups tucked in designer bags? If well-behaved, the purse stowaways can be smuggled through retail stores, restaurants, hotels, amusement parks, movie theaters — places traditionally off limits to any dog other than service animals. I recently saw a tiny pomeranian peeking from the flap of a Louis Vuitton in church!

While technically not a “crate,” the pooch purse demands some attention in an article about dog containers. Such carriers are available in everything from serpa slings to camouflage cargo bags and fanny packs. With the projected annual spending on pet products of $52 billion over the next two years, it is a good bet that toting Toto will continue to be vogue!

Just remember, safety first. Pets are not great advocates for the concept of suffering for fashion’s sake!

Additional Resources

• Pet Travel: Airline requirements
• AAHA Healthy Pet: Safe car travel for your pet
• Humane Society: Crate training

Learn some tips for successful puppy housetraining.

I am getting a new puppy this week!

It is an exciting time — but to be honest, I dread the housetraining routine. Just thinking about it reminds me of an old joke…

Ever Heard This One?

“M-R puppies.”

“M-R not puppies!”

“O-S-A-R puppies! C-M-P-N?!”

“L-I-B! M-R puppies!”

Long before text messaging, this joke would bring peals of laughter from my childhood friends. It was funny because of the reference to puppies peeing!

Of course, if you are in the midst of housetraining a puppy, the humor may be lost on the constant task of the cleanup! What are the most effective methods of housetraining a dog? Keep reading, and you’ll find out.

Watch and Learn

The first key to effective training is to observe your puppy’s behavior. Your pup may need to go potty eight to 10 times a day! Puppies usually need to eliminate soon after waking, eating, drinking or playing. You will begin to understand your dog’s body language when she has to go. When you notice your puppy whimpering, whining circling and sniffing — it is time! (What are you waiting for, a handwritten note?) Take your pup to the potty area immediately.

If the potty area is outside, your puppy will eventually go to the door as an indication. If you are using papers or wee wee pads, place them in the same designated area and train to that spot. Use a keyword — as your dog is peeing or pooping say, “Go pee pee,” or “Go potty.” She will begin to understand the correlation of the word. Above all, be consistent with your program.

Crates Are Great

A young puppy should never be allowed the run of the house. Housetraining requires confinement of some sort, for his protection and yours.

The natural instinct of a puppy to seek safety and comfort from the den-like enclosure of a crate makes for a perfect housetraining tool. Dogs typically will not soil their sleep area. Crates also protect your belongings from sharp puppy teeth and protect your pup from electric cords, plants, stairs and areas that require supervision.

But… if you want this to work, you’ve got to know how to properly crate train.

Follow these guidelines:

• Never use the crate as a punishment! Your dog will come to fear it and refuse to enter it.
• Puppies younger than 6 months shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a clip. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for that long. The same goes for adult dogs that are being housetrained. Physically they can hold it, but they don’t know they’re supposed to. Don’t be cruel.
• Crate your dog only until you can trust her not to destroy the house. After that, it should be a place she goes voluntarily.
• If your puppy continually soils the crate, discontinue using it for housetraining.

Always take your puppy to the “potty area” as soon as you take her from the crate or area of confinement. Reward her as soon as she relieves herself.

Watch This Video

In the video below, Bernadine Cruz, DVM, gives an overview of some methods:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfNeXtTy0NY

Crime and Punishment

Animal experts agree: Rewards are the most successful training reinforcement. Never punish your puppy for accidents.

As soon as your dog successfully eliminates — in the designated training spot — praise her and/or offer a treat. She will learn very quickly the way to get the reward. If she makes a mistake, do not scold or reprimand. Just clean up and start back with the training. Punishments, either by scolding or physical corrections, compromise the trust factor with your puppy. You will end up with a dog that is fearful and anxious.

If your dog soils in the wrong place, she does not understand the mistake. Correcting her after the one-second rule will not work. If there’s one thing I can’t stand, it’s when dog owners rub their dog’s nose in urine. Do not rub your puppy’s nose in urine! It doesn’t work, and will never work. Ever. Don’t be cruel.

Clean the floor thoroughly with an enzymatic solution. Do not use ammonia; dogs instinctively return to areas marked with the scent of their waste, and the aroma of ammonia may be confused with urine. If your dog continues to return to the same spot, you may move potty papers in that area. Help him understand the right place to potty and want to go there.

Saved by the Bell

Puppies are babies, and they will forget training if they are involved in a more interesting activity. Sometimes the urgency hits and they will just start to pee before they give a signal.

When you see your puppy begin to urinate or defecate in the wrong place, distract her. A loud clap, whistle or bell will break her attention just long enough to scoop her up and get her to the right potty place. Encourage her to continue elimination with your special command and then reward the success.

Practice — and Patience — Make Perfect

Housetraining a puppy takes compassion, consistency and patience. It is your responsibility to help your puppy understand where and when to potty. Let me try to simplify this. Regardless of the method, housetraining employs two general guidelines:

1. PREVENT indoor accidents by confinement, observation and close supervision.
2. Take your puppy outside on a regular schedule and REWARD her for eliminating in the designated area.

Remember, a puppy less than 12 weeks old will not have developed bladder or bowel control. A dog may not be fully housetrained until 8 to 12 months old.

Magic Formula? Not So Much

Sorry, there are no magic formulas for housetraining a puppy successfully. It requires the pet parent’s investment of time and effort. The payoff is a happy, trusting relationship with your new fur-child.

If you find you need additional help, professional guidance is available. Contact a certified professional dog trainer (CPDT), a certified applied animal behaviorist (CAAB), or a board-certified veterinarian behaviorist (Dip ACVB).

Additional Resources

• WebVet: Housetraining your new puppy
  
• ASPCA: More advice on housetraining your puppy

Litter box training a dog is possible. If that's your thing.

I hear “litter box” and instantly think of cats, as I’m sure most of you do — but what about dogs? Can dogs be trained to use a litter box? The surprising answer is yes. It’s not for everyone, but some pet owners have asked us about it.

Unlike cats, dogs normally need to go outside to relieve themselves. This may not always be feasible if you live in a tall building, work long hours or can’t make it to the door in time. Dogs can also get bladder infections if forced to “hold it” for long periods of time — but there is an indoor solution.

Litter boxes provide an additional place for your dog to go when needed. Note that it is not considered a replacement for going outside completely, but an inside aid to limit the need to go outside as often. Litter box training is easier for younger or smaller dogs, but it is possible with older and larger dogs. This can also be a suitable alternative when grassy areas are not nearby and your dog avoids concrete surfaces for this purpose.

Dog Litter Boxes

In the video below, a dog trainer talks about dog litter boxes. So watch this, and then I’ll tell you what you will need to get started:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1oFZIWbw_0

What You’ll Need

You will need a litter box, obviously. Depending on the size of your dog, a regular litter box will do as long as it is a few inches deep. There should be enough room for your dog to walk around and choose a spot. For male dogs that lift their leg to pee, some pet owners have used a covered litter box with the top and opening cut out. This way the back and sides will (with luck) catch any spray missing the box while still keeping an open feel.

Larger dogs will need larger boxes, and some pet owners have used large travel crates and cut out the top and front for this purpose. If you start with a puppy that will grow larger, expect to replace the box size as the puppy grows. Keeping the same small box for a growing dog will almost guarantee that accidents will happen.

Filler is important. Don’t use regular cat litter in your dog’s box. Some cat litter can cause health problems in dogs that ingest poop. If your dog is already used to going on puppy pads or newspaper, start moving these into and around the litter box. The scent and material should let your dog know that this is an acceptable place for relieving himself.

Once your dog gets used to the area, you can switch to dog litter (yes, this is a product!) made just for litter boxes for dogs. Most of them you find will be similar to rabbit filler; they will look like small pellets that turn to sawdust when wet and are biodegradable.

Use the same product; don’t change litter types or materials once your dog is used to it. This can cause confusion or accidents to start happening around the house.

Fencing-in the area or making a barrier offers some privacy and keeps the contents contained. Plastic lattice sheets or gates near openings can be used for this purpose. You don’t need to do this, but it will help keep the area clean.

Everything Is in Place – Now What?

If going indoors or on newspaper is new for your dog, you will need to train the dog to become familiar with the area. You can also soak some newspaper in his urine or bring some feces from outside and place it in the box to show that this is acceptable. If you dog motions for you to let him out, try leading him to the box area to familiarize him with the process. If your dog does use the area, offer lots of praise.

Accidents can happen, so have cleaner on hand and show the dog the litter box area. Rubbing the dog’s nose in the urine is most certainly not recommended. There can be several reasons for the accident, such as not making it to the box in time or missing the box while going. A firm “No!” and placing the dog in the box will help reinforce the proper area for peeing. If the dog goes once in this area, offer praise.

Once the dog gets used to the newspaper or if using pads, you can slowly start incorporating the dog litter with the existing items. Each week start using less newspaper and more litter until all that is left is litter. Use reinforcement by using words such as “Go potty,” and praise the dog every time the litter box is used.

Try also doing this when the dog goes outside so the association between the act and both areas is consistent. You may consider placing the box closer to the door the dog uses to go outside to reinforce the association. Tiled areas are best for cleaning up accidents, but if carpet is the only flooring, you can put down newspaper or plastic underneath the box. Try not to move the box’s location too much so you don’t confuse your dog.

Can I Quit Letting the Dog Out?

While indoor training can be the only means for your dog to potty, don’t have unrealistic expectations.

It is great as a backup so your dog doesn’t have to hold it forever, but you should still set aside time to go outside for potty and play. This method can be great for small dogs with small bladders or older dogs that may need to go more frequently — and you are helping your pet’s health by not making him hold waste in his system for longer than necessary.

With the right materials and some patience, you too can have your dog using the litter box as part of a regular routine.

Additional Resources

• Keith Turbyfill: How to litter box train your dog
  
• ASPCA: Advice for multiple-animal households and litter
• Carol Osborne, DVM: Dog urine problems

Photo: stella sia/Flickr

Why on earth would you want to rub this puppy's nose in pee? Get real!

Just in case some of you didn’t realize it… We are living in the 21st century.

Just the thought of someone thinking that rubbing a dog’s nose in pee makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up. I cannot begin to fathom that there are people out there living in today’s society who would actually think that this barbaric practice is an acceptable way to housebreak a puppy.

I’ve often wondered if these people would rub their children’s noses in their underwear if they had an accident while potty training. Perhaps they make the child wear the dirty underwear on their heads. Of course, most people would never do such a horrific thing to a child, but they won’t think twice about grinding a dog’s snout in urine.

So, just to be clear, let me put it in big, bold, red letters, and I will underline the key word:

Rubbing a Dog’s Nose in Pee
DOES NOT WORK.

Got it? Great. Let’s move on to housetraining methods that do work.

First, realize that housebreaking takes patience and consistency. Rewarding proper behavior will work much better than punishing a puppy for having an accident.

Many people don’t realize that the length of time that it takes to housetrain strictly depends upon the dedication of you and your family. Canines can’t housebreak themselves, so unless the owner is steadfast in getting the pup outdoors when he has to pee, there will be accidents. To put it bluntly: All accidents that a puppy has are the result of the owner’s negligence.

Listen for the Yip

A puppy’s first cry must be heard and acted on by his human family. The initial whine means that the puppy needs to go outside to pee or poop. It is essential to his training that you immediately get him outside to do his business. When he urinates or defecates, give tons of praise. Act like your pet just produced a million-dollar turd and he will soon learn that handling his bowels or bladder outdoors is a fantastic thing.

Water Means Wet Spots

Brand new pet owners may not realize that a puppy needs to go outside to pee shortly after drinking water. The truth of the matter is that fluid tends to move quickly through a puppy’s system, especially if they run around your house afterward.

It’s never wise, nor is it healthy, to withhold water from a dog simply to decrease the amount of urine that it produces. Watch for the signs and listen for his yip if you really want to get him housebroken quickly.

Oh Can You Smell That Smell?

One of the biggest problems that pet owners have with the housebreaking process is that they do not clean up accidents properly. In case you didn’t know it, doggies have a super-keen sense of smell. When a dog gets the scent of urine in a particular place, he will immediately go to the spot and cover it up with fresh pee. This can be avoided with a thorough cleaning.

Urine accidents that happen on hard surfaces such as ceramic tile, concrete floors or linoleum are easy to handle. The urine should be absorbed with plenty of paper towels. Then you should mix up a bucket of bleach and very hot water. The area must be scrubbed to eliminate any residual odor that the doggy might be able to pick up. The better you are at cleaning, the less likely your pooch is to have additional accidents.

Embrace the Crate

One of the best tools that a pet owner should invest in is the airline crate. Dogs are generally clean animals and do not like to pee or poop where they sleep. Puppies that have been housebroken by using the crate training method are less likely to have accidents in the house unless they have underlying health issues. Consider crate training to keep your home free of the smell of urine.

 Photos: Shutterstock (top), fazen/Flickr

How to remove cat urine stains and odors

We’ve all had that sinking feeling when you see your pet hunch down and you know he is urinating on your floor. Panic, stress and a race to move him elsewhere sets in almost instantly. In other instances we smell a faint urine odor but cannot find the source. Whether you catch the pet instantly or find it later, urine stains do need to be cleaned if you want to get rid of the odor.

Urine can seep through the carpet to the padding and subfloor. Upholstery and wood floors are also at risk of harboring the ammonia-type smell, but there are some solutions to help remove the stain and unpleasant odor. Cat urine is stronger than dog urine because of the protein-rich diet, and the source needs to be found or it will keep creeping up no matter how many deodorizers you spray in your home.

Cats urinate outside their litter boxes for several reasons. Some of these are:

• Marking territory
• Full litter box
• Loss of bladder control
• Illness
• Litter box location (no privacy or difficult to access)
• Type of cat litter
• Stress (moving or other animals)
• Recent declawing caused paws to be sore

No matter the surface of the urine, always try to soak up as much of it as possible with paper towels or a dry cloth. Press on the area to absorb the urine; do not rub it in since this can spread it into surrounding fibers or deeper into the subfloor. There are several cleaning solutions you can use depending on the surface.

Carpet

After drying the urine as much as possible, use a cleaning solution to treat the area. Always test an inconspicuous area first if you are unsure of the effect the solution will have on the carpet (under a sofa or behind furniture where any damage won’t be seen).

1. Rub baking soda and water into the carpet and leave it to dry. Vacuum up the solution when dry and repeat if necessary. This solution is good for surface soiling but may not be best for deep or subfloor extraction.
2. Also use warm water and vinegar if you have it on hand.
3. Using a steam cleaner or renting an extractor or wet vacuum may be effective in removing the moisture and killing the odor-causing bacteria.
4. A cleaner or detergent with hydrogen peroxide is another alternative, but test this on dark carpets as it might lighten some fabrics.

Upholstery

Dry the surface as much as possible with a dry cloth or paper towel. Clean the surface with a cleaning solution such as one of those above and pat dry. Use a hair dryer to dry the area starting from the outside of the stain. Some steam cleaners also have accessories or handles for these types of furniture and can be used to kill the bacteria. Just as with carpet, test an inconspicuous area first so you don’t leave permanent damage in a visible area.

Hardwood Floors

Urine can seep through the seams of the wood floor and affect the padding or subfloor below. If you have pets, make sure your wood floors are sealed well. In the event of a urine accident, dry the moisture as much as possible. The warm water and vinegar mixture may be best, but any damage may depend on the type of wood you have on your floor.

Test a hidden area just as you would with fabrics before applying any chemicals or cleaners. If you are successful in removing the urine completely and it does not return for a few days, consider applying another coat of sealer to your floors to prevent further accidents from getting trapped into the subfloor.

After treating the area for stain and odor, you can apply an odor remover. These are usually found in pet stores; look for one that has enzymes in it to attack any remaining bacteria. Be careful not to look for one designed to treat blood stains as these are not as effective on urine odors. You can also use the same homemade remedy for removing skunk odor.

If you smell urine but cannot find its source, try using a blacklight to illuminate the soiled area. Even with the above solutions, sometimes the urine is old or trapped so deep into the subfloor that it simply cannot be removed without replacing the flooring. If you do decide to replace your flooring, seal the subfloor well (if installing a wood floor, seal the surface well).

Additional Resources

• Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine: House soiling by cats
• Cat Secrets Revealed: How to clean cat urine

Photo: yousscool2010/Flickr

Question: Hi, I just a got a great dane puppy, Cooper. Ever since we got him, he just will not go outside at all. We take him out and wait for almost 20 minutes, and the minute we come back — inside he goes!

We’ve had him for a week and half, and he still won’t go outside. We take him outside every 30 minutes to an hour, and he still refuses to go outside. We know that if he poops indoors we take the poop outside and show him where he should be pooping. But he runs away from the grass and comes back inside.

I’m getting frustrated about it, because he’s scared all the time, and doesn’t want anyone to touch him but me. It’s weird. I don’t know what else we should do. We only feed him two or three times a day. I need advice! We had a great dane before, but she never acted scared or anything; she goes outside. She was such a happy little puppy when she was a puppy.

But Cooper, he’s so scared of everything! I’m starting to think the breeder did not let him go outside at all and socialize the puppies. –Brittney

It sounds like your great dane has never learned to go to the bathroom in grass and is too fearful to learn in the way you are trying. When dogs are very fearful it is not uncommon for them to never overcome the fear on their own. This means you might repeat the same situation for a month without seeing any results. We need to do two things in this situation: help him be comfortable enough to go outside and prevent him from going inside.

For housebreaking a great dane like this, I would start by sitting down and figuring out what the dog’s schedule has been until now. His bowel movements should be fairly predictable from day to day. When you think he probably needs to go, I would take him for a long walk on grass. You can wander around the yard working on teaching him to “heel” properly. This will help alleviate any fear he may be experiencing since you are teaching him to focus on you. The longer you walk, the less worried he will be about all the things in the world that he finds scary.

Once he is calm and relaxed in the yard, he will be much more likely to be comfortable enough to poop. The walking also tends to make him feel the need to poop because of the exercise. When he eventually goes, I would quietly praise him while he is going and then give some more excited praise after he is done.

It is also important to stop the great dane from pooping in the house. If you take him outside and he doesn’t go after his walk, I would bring him in and either keep him on leash with you or put him in his crate. The crate isn’t meant to be a punishment; it just prevents him from going inside.

Each time he goes outside he becomes more comfortable with it, and each time he goes in the house means one less time outside.

Once you have four or five days of success you should be pretty much finished helping the dog to be comfortable outside, and you will be left with some of the more basic housebreaking issues common to all puppies.

Photo: Gmonkey/Flickr.com

Min pin crate training doesn't have to be difficult. We break it down into 5 easy steps.

Crate training is the easiest way to house train your miniature doberman pinscher, and keeps your li’l puppy safe at the same time.

In this article, we’ll discuss a method of min pin crate training in just 5 steps. This is a quick and easy way to make your min pin puppy feel secure, happy and comfortable in his own little bedroom. No dog likes to use the bathroom where it sleeps, so crate training is a great housebreaking program.

1. Be sure to purchase a crate that is not too big. (It shouldn’t be too small either.) It should be comfortable for your min pin to sleep in as well as roomy enough for him to stand up and turn around. Line the crate with a soft and comfortable blanket. Attach food and water bowls to the door so your miniature pinscher is never left hungry or thirsty.

2. Introduce your little one to the crate. The introduction is actually very important. Never just pick the dog up and shove him in it. He needs to explore the crate and realize that it is a good place. Hide treats and long lasting chew toys inside of the crate. A favorite stuffed toy will also help to make your miniature pinscher more comfortable in his new room. Let him go in and out at will. Providing the puppy is familiar with the crate and not afraid of it, you can move onto the third step.

3. Gently place your min pin inside the crate. Praise him and give him a special treat. Close and latch the door. Stay in the room and go about other activities for a few minutes. Open the crate door and continue as if the gate were never closed. The dog will come out on his own. Do not coax him to exit the crate because he should be able to stay in there if he wants to do so.

4. Now put the little one in the crate and latch the door. Be sure he has treats, toys, food and especially water. Stay in the room for five minutes but do not talk to the puppy. After that time, walk out of the room quietly. Leave the min pin in the crate for an hour. If he cries, reassure him that all is well and leave him.

5. Finally, exercise your min pin just before bedtime. Be sure he is tuckered out. Place him in the crate and tell him good night. If he cries, reassure him that everything is OK. If he continues to whine, a sharp “hush” should do the trick. Be sure to have the lights off at bedtime.

You should understand that the method of min pin crate training in just 5 steps will take at least a week. Be consistent, and your miniature pinscher puppy will be sleeping soundly in no time.

Photo: johnthesaintjohn/Flickr

Many owners opt not to teach their dogs to use the bathroom outdoors. The method of chihuahua wee wee pad training suits their lifestyle better. They do not need to walk the dog. Pee pads are especially lauded by apartment dwellers and condo owners. For people without back yards, these training papers are a perfect solution.

Still others do not like to bring their chihuahuas outdoors in inclement weather conditions for fear that they will get a chill. These are all viable reasons for using wee wee pads.

Housebreaking pads are made of absorbent paper. The bottom is lined with leak-proof plastic. The plastic protects carpets from becoming urine soaked, hence preventing dog pee stains and odors. They are very similar to the consistency of a baby’s diaper. The pads have a scent that entices the puppy to go potty there.

Chihuahua Wee Wee Pad Training Tips

Decide on a spot that you want your chihuahua to use to go to the bathroom. This should never be close to a bedding area. Be sure that this is where you want him to go. Once decided, you should always place the chihuahua’s wee wee pads in the same spot. Changing the bathroom area will result in accidents. Place the house-training pad in a permanent spot.

As soon as your pup eats or drinks, place him on the pee pad. If he walks away from the spot, place him back there until he pees or poops. When he wakes up, put him on the pad. Watch carefully as he plays; exercise also aids in elimination. If your chihuahua begins to sniff around or squat, bring him back to the wee wee pad.

Stress-Free Housebreaking Possible

Should your little canine friend have an accident, soak up the urine with paper towels. Place the towels on the wee wee pads for a few minutes, allowing the urine to seek into the pad. This will give the pad your doggie’s scent and encourage him to go there again. If he goes potty in an inappropriate area, pick up the poop and place it on the pad. Leave it there for a bit so the pad gets the odor absorbed into it. Then remove the turd. This will help your puppy understand that the bathroom training pads are the place for him to do his business.

Be consistent and gentle for proper chihuahua wee wee pad training. Always praise your pet when he goes in the right spot. Using this method, relatively stress-free housebreaking is possible.

Photo: !ºrobodot/Flickr

 

Allen Simon, Wee Wee Pad inventor

Allen Simon never went to high school. But now he’s filthy stinkin’ rich. How?

Easy… He is the inventor of the Wee-Wee Pads for dogs. That’s right: Every time a dog pees, this guy hears cash registers ringing.

Allen was a former carpet layer who transitioned into a dog grooming business in Brooklyn. In those days they used newspapers for the pets to pee on. Noticing how the urine soaked through the paper to the floor, Allen says he had an epiphany: “I said this is ridiculous; I’ll make my own pad.”

Nothing “Wee” About This Idea

A novel product of the 1970s, Allen’s super absorbent piddle pads were designed to attract the puppy when nature comes calling. There is a plastic lining that helps to prevent floor damage from urine. You can use them in potty training or for dogs that are housebound for longer periods of time. Various sizes are available, from small pups to extra large dogs.

As the bestselling housebreaking pad in the world, Four Paws Wee Wee Pads have been tremendously popular, and Allen figures that he’s “gone from $1,000 in sales to over $30 million.” That’s nothing to bark at.

Word of Caution

“Dog Whisperer” Cesar Millan praises the pads, but cautions pet owners about their use in house training a puppy.

“Though Wee-Wee Pads are a wonderful invention,” he says, “it’s very important that puppies don’t learn housebreaking inside a house.” He advises to set the pee pads out at times when you won’t be able to supervise the puppy. Also, always replace a used pad immediately with a new one.

Top pic: TV Land photo