Wondering how to buy a dog crate? Let us explain...

I was making preparations to fly to Canada to pick up one of my dogs, and I had to buy a crate to transport him. I have used crates for training but had not purchased one for flight.

I found myself a bit overwhelmed by all the features and benefits, styles and price ranges. There is a lot to learn about dog crates! In this article, I share some of what I’ve learned.

The first consideration when you’re shopping for a dog crate (sometimes called a kennel) is to choose the product that fits your purpose.

Good crates are designed to:

• Train,
• Contain,
• or Transport

Size Matters

The size of your dog is very important. Your puppy may spend several hours inside the enclosure and should feel protected, not trapped. A training crate must be well ventilated and kept clean.

Ideally, the container should be just big enough for your dog to stand and turn around. (There should be 3 or 4 inches above the dog’s head when he stands up.) If your puppy is still in the growing stage you may want to consider renting a kennel in order to “trade up” to more appropriate sizes as your pet develops.

Like a Den

Domestic dogs are only a few genetic steps removed from their ancestors: wolves. In the wild, these animals raise their young, sleep and are protected from danger in dens. Using crates for in-home training reinforces your pet dog’s natural instinct to seek safety and comfort in a small, enclosed area.

Dogs do not typically soil their “dens,” so crates limit the animal’s access to areas that are off limits. They provide a certain amount of control while your puppy learns acceptable behaviors during house-training.

In the video below, from the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA), Lisa Mazzaferro, DVM, explains why crates are ideal for puppies in a new home:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bjH92wbE9io

Training Guidelines

Review professional guidelines for crate training your dog. Recommendations from the US Humane Society include:

• Never use the crate as a punishment. Your dog will come to fear it and refuse to enter it.
• Don’t leave your dog inside for too long. A dog that’s crated day and night doesn’t get enough exercise or human interaction and can become depressed or anxious.
• Puppies younger than 6 months shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a time. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for that long. The same goes for adult dogs being housetrained. They can probably hold it, but they don’t know they’re supposed to.
• Crate your dog only until you can trust him not to destroy the house. After that, it should be a place he goes voluntarily.

Making the Crate Great

Designer dog crate from Frontgate Home Outfitters

As your dog grows and matures, a crate may become a source of containment. When training is administered effectively, your dog will return to the crate voluntarily to sleep or if there is some perceived danger, like thunderstorms. It will become his safe place.

Several companies present a line of upscale crates that integrate well into a room’s decor. Frontgate Home Outfitters created a catalog of “Luxury Pet Residence” crates. These innovative containers double as an attractive piece of furniture while providing your pet with a cozy space. Prices begin at $399.

There are occasions when a portable, soft crate may be necessary. Many evacuation shelters permit pets, provided they are properly contained — so the use of travel kennels may become critical during emergencies. Most pet stores and many discount retailers these in a variety of sizes and styles. Retail prices typically run less than $150.

Trains, Planes and Automobiles

The safety of your dog is a priority when you’re traveling. It is a best practice to always crate your dog when you are driving. Some states are considering legislation to require restraints for animals in automobiles.

Regardless of temperament and training, a loose pet can distract the driver and cause accidents that injure or kill the pet and other passengers.

Never leave an animal in a parked vehicle during hot weather. Most states enforce anti-cruelty laws and punish owners who leave their dogs in cars on hot days.

Safety tips related to cars:

• Leave adequate space around the crate when it’s packed in your vehicle.
• Let plenty of fresh air flow in and around the crate.
• Make sure the crate is buckled to the seat or securely attached to the floor of the car.
• Ensure that the locks and latches are safe and secure before traveling.

Airlines offer travel options for dogs (with some notable exceptions) provided that certain stipulations are satisfied. Crating your pet is mandatory on any airline regardless if the dog flies in the passenger cabin or in cargo. Dogs traveling on a commercial airline must be transported in an International Air Transport Association (IATA) compliant pet crate.

IATA minimum requirements include:

• The container must be large enough for the animal(s) to stand, turn around and lie down in.
• The kennel must be made of a sturdy plastic.
• The container must have a secure, spring loaded, all around locking system with the pins extending beyond the horizontal extrusions above and below the door.
• Although this is not an IATA requirement, many airlines are now requiring steel crate hardware instead of plastic fasteners.
• Both water and food bowls must be attached to the inside of the front door and be refillable from the outside of the container without opening the door.
• The container must have ventilation on all sides for international travel and three sides for domestic travel.
• The container must have “Live Animal” stickers on the top and sides in letters at least 1 inch tall.
• No wheels! If the container has wheels, these should be removed or taped securely so that the kennel cannot roll.
• The container must be identified with your pet’s name and owner’s contact information.

Check with the airline or rail line before travel for additional safety instructions. For more advice, see our article on travel tips.

Toting Toto

Who hasn’t seen celebrity photos of stars with their precious pups tucked in designer bags? If well-behaved, the purse stowaways can be smuggled through retail stores, restaurants, hotels, amusement parks, movie theaters — places traditionally off limits to any dog other than service animals. I recently saw a tiny pomeranian peeking from the flap of a Louis Vuitton in church!

While technically not a “crate,” the pooch purse demands some attention in an article about dog containers. Such carriers are available in everything from serpa slings to camouflage cargo bags and fanny packs. With the projected annual spending on pet products of $52 billion over the next two years, it is a good bet that toting Toto will continue to be vogue!

Just remember, safety first. Pets are not great advocates for the concept of suffering for fashion’s sake!

Additional Resources

• Pet Travel: Airline requirements
• AAHA Healthy Pet: Safe car travel for your pet
• Humane Society: Crate training

Learn some tips for successful puppy housetraining.

I am getting a new puppy this week!

It is an exciting time — but to be honest, I dread the housetraining routine. Just thinking about it reminds me of an old joke…

Ever Heard This One?

“M-R puppies.”

“M-R not puppies!”

“O-S-A-R puppies! C-M-P-N?!”

“L-I-B! M-R puppies!”

Long before text messaging, this joke would bring peals of laughter from my childhood friends. It was funny because of the reference to puppies peeing!

Of course, if you are in the midst of housetraining a puppy, the humor may be lost on the constant task of the cleanup! What are the most effective methods of housetraining a dog? Keep reading, and you’ll find out.

Watch and Learn

The first key to effective training is to observe your puppy’s behavior. Your pup may need to go potty eight to 10 times a day! Puppies usually need to eliminate soon after waking, eating, drinking or playing. You will begin to understand your dog’s body language when she has to go. When you notice your puppy whimpering, whining circling and sniffing — it is time! (What are you waiting for, a handwritten note?) Take your pup to the potty area immediately.

If the potty area is outside, your puppy will eventually go to the door as an indication. If you are using papers or wee wee pads, place them in the same designated area and train to that spot. Use a keyword — as your dog is peeing or pooping say, “Go pee pee,” or “Go potty.” She will begin to understand the correlation of the word. Above all, be consistent with your program.

Crates Are Great

A young puppy should never be allowed the run of the house. Housetraining requires confinement of some sort, for his protection and yours.

The natural instinct of a puppy to seek safety and comfort from the den-like enclosure of a crate makes for a perfect housetraining tool. Dogs typically will not soil their sleep area. Crates also protect your belongings from sharp puppy teeth and protect your pup from electric cords, plants, stairs and areas that require supervision.

But… if you want this to work, you’ve got to know how to properly crate train.

Follow these guidelines:

• Never use the crate as a punishment! Your dog will come to fear it and refuse to enter it.
• Puppies younger than 6 months shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a clip. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for that long. The same goes for adult dogs that are being housetrained. Physically they can hold it, but they don’t know they’re supposed to. Don’t be cruel.
• Crate your dog only until you can trust her not to destroy the house. After that, it should be a place she goes voluntarily.
• If your puppy continually soils the crate, discontinue using it for housetraining.

Always take your puppy to the “potty area” as soon as you take her from the crate or area of confinement. Reward her as soon as she relieves herself.

Watch This Video

In the video below, Bernadine Cruz, DVM, gives an overview of some methods:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfNeXtTy0NY

Crime and Punishment

Animal experts agree: Rewards are the most successful training reinforcement. Never punish your puppy for accidents.

As soon as your dog successfully eliminates — in the designated training spot — praise her and/or offer a treat. She will learn very quickly the way to get the reward. If she makes a mistake, do not scold or reprimand. Just clean up and start back with the training. Punishments, either by scolding or physical corrections, compromise the trust factor with your puppy. You will end up with a dog that is fearful and anxious.

If your dog soils in the wrong place, she does not understand the mistake. Correcting her after the one-second rule will not work. If there’s one thing I can’t stand, it’s when dog owners rub their dog’s nose in urine. Do not rub your puppy’s nose in urine! It doesn’t work, and will never work. Ever. Don’t be cruel.

Clean the floor thoroughly with an enzymatic solution. Do not use ammonia; dogs instinctively return to areas marked with the scent of their waste, and the aroma of ammonia may be confused with urine. If your dog continues to return to the same spot, you may move potty papers in that area. Help him understand the right place to potty and want to go there.

Saved by the Bell

Puppies are babies, and they will forget training if they are involved in a more interesting activity. Sometimes the urgency hits and they will just start to pee before they give a signal.

When you see your puppy begin to urinate or defecate in the wrong place, distract her. A loud clap, whistle or bell will break her attention just long enough to scoop her up and get her to the right potty place. Encourage her to continue elimination with your special command and then reward the success.

Practice — and Patience — Make Perfect

Housetraining a puppy takes compassion, consistency and patience. It is your responsibility to help your puppy understand where and when to potty. Let me try to simplify this. Regardless of the method, housetraining employs two general guidelines:

1. PREVENT indoor accidents by confinement, observation and close supervision.
2. Take your puppy outside on a regular schedule and REWARD her for eliminating in the designated area.

Remember, a puppy less than 12 weeks old will not have developed bladder or bowel control. A dog may not be fully housetrained until 8 to 12 months old.

Magic Formula? Not So Much

Sorry, there are no magic formulas for housetraining a puppy successfully. It requires the pet parent’s investment of time and effort. The payoff is a happy, trusting relationship with your new fur-child.

If you find you need additional help, professional guidance is available. Contact a certified professional dog trainer (CPDT), a certified applied animal behaviorist (CAAB), or a board-certified veterinarian behaviorist (Dip ACVB).

Additional Resources

• WebVet: Housetraining your new puppy
  
• ASPCA: More advice on housetraining your puppy

Why on earth would you want to rub this puppy's nose in pee? Get real!

Just in case some of you didn’t realize it… We are living in the 21st century.

Just the thought of someone thinking that rubbing a dog’s nose in pee makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up. I cannot begin to fathom that there are people out there living in today’s society who would actually think that this barbaric practice is an acceptable way to housebreak a puppy.

I’ve often wondered if these people would rub their children’s noses in their underwear if they had an accident while potty training. Perhaps they make the child wear the dirty underwear on their heads. Of course, most people would never do such a horrific thing to a child, but they won’t think twice about grinding a dog’s snout in urine.

So, just to be clear, let me put it in big, bold, red letters, and I will underline the key word:

Rubbing a Dog’s Nose in Pee
DOES NOT WORK.

Got it? Great. Let’s move on to housetraining methods that do work.

First, realize that housebreaking takes patience and consistency. Rewarding proper behavior will work much better than punishing a puppy for having an accident.

Many people don’t realize that the length of time that it takes to housetrain strictly depends upon the dedication of you and your family. Canines can’t housebreak themselves, so unless the owner is steadfast in getting the pup outdoors when he has to pee, there will be accidents. To put it bluntly: All accidents that a puppy has are the result of the owner’s negligence.

Listen for the Yip

A puppy’s first cry must be heard and acted on by his human family. The initial whine means that the puppy needs to go outside to pee or poop. It is essential to his training that you immediately get him outside to do his business. When he urinates or defecates, give tons of praise. Act like your pet just produced a million-dollar turd and he will soon learn that handling his bowels or bladder outdoors is a fantastic thing.

Water Means Wet Spots

Brand new pet owners may not realize that a puppy needs to go outside to pee shortly after drinking water. The truth of the matter is that fluid tends to move quickly through a puppy’s system, especially if they run around your house afterward.

It’s never wise, nor is it healthy, to withhold water from a dog simply to decrease the amount of urine that it produces. Watch for the signs and listen for his yip if you really want to get him housebroken quickly.

Oh Can You Smell That Smell?

One of the biggest problems that pet owners have with the housebreaking process is that they do not clean up accidents properly. In case you didn’t know it, doggies have a super-keen sense of smell. When a dog gets the scent of urine in a particular place, he will immediately go to the spot and cover it up with fresh pee. This can be avoided with a thorough cleaning.

Urine accidents that happen on hard surfaces such as ceramic tile, concrete floors or linoleum are easy to handle. The urine should be absorbed with plenty of paper towels. Then you should mix up a bucket of bleach and very hot water. The area must be scrubbed to eliminate any residual odor that the doggy might be able to pick up. The better you are at cleaning, the less likely your pooch is to have additional accidents.

Embrace the Crate

One of the best tools that a pet owner should invest in is the airline crate. Dogs are generally clean animals and do not like to pee or poop where they sleep. Puppies that have been housebroken by using the crate training method are less likely to have accidents in the house unless they have underlying health issues. Consider crate training to keep your home free of the smell of urine.

 Photos: Shutterstock (top), fazen/Flickr

Question: Should I crate my 1-year-old Jack Russell terrier when we aren’t home? No one could steal him, and he couldn’t get into anything, but in a kennel, he couldn’t guard the house, and if there were a fire or other emergency, he could not escape.

What should I do? — Jolene

Should You Crate Your Dog When You’re Not Home?

First of all, I applaud you for being being aware that you should crate your dog when you’re not home. Many times, when dogs have free reign in the house, they can act out by destroying furniture, eliminating indoors — on your bed, for example! — and barking nonstop in the backyard. When dogs are left alone too long without anything to do, they tend to make their unhappiness known, especially dogs of a  mischievous breed like your Jack Russell.

A Den for Your Dog

But dog crates serve another purpose besides keeping your pet out of trouble: They provide a quiet place where your dog can feel safe and comfortable when you aren’t home. Canines are denning animals, which means that they instinctively prefer to sleep in small, comfortable spaces. If your dog becomes agitated when he’s alone, crating him is the best way to help him feel secure until you come home.

However, the questions you raise are good ones. If one of your dog’s jobs is to protect your home by barking at potential intruders, he won’t be able to do that job if he’s in a crate. Also, if there is a fire or an earthquake, your dog would, indeed, be trapped in his crate. Both situations are excellent arguments for leaving your dog uncrated.

On the other hand, crating your dog when you’re not home can actually protect him in both situations, too!

If Someone Wants in, They’ll Get in

I accepted long ago that if someone wants to break into my house, they’re going to do it, no matter what kind of security system we have. A barking dog is definitely a deterrent, but if someone wants in, they’re getting in. Should that happen, and if your dog responds by attacking the intruder, there is a good chance the burglar will harm your dog, perhaps even kill him.

On those same lines, if there’s a fire or other problem that involves an emergency response team, your dog will indeed be confined to his crate — and be that much easier for the team to remove from harm. Firefighters don’t have a lot of time to evacuate a home, especially one that is protected by a loose dog, so having your dog in a convenient “carrying case” will keep him safer.

Safety Stickers

I recommend you get one of these nifty free stickers from the ASPCA. List your pets on the sticker and affix it to your window. Burglars will see that you have pets and perhaps move on to another home, and emergency response teams will know that there are pets inside that need to be rescued.

Photo: fredlight/Flickr

Every Wednesday, we answer questions from our readers. If you’d like to submit a question, please contact us.

Are you in the market for a dog cage? In this article, I’ll bring you the scoop (good and bad) on three different sturdy dog cages for sale. One of them may be the right choice for your pet.

1. Pro Select Empire Cage, Large

The Pro Select Empire Cage is one of the most well-constructed cages on the market, and carries a steep price tag to prove it — a whopping $600 when I checked. But if your dog has been known to claw or chew his way out of other cages, this could definitely be the product you need.

The Pro Select is strong and durable, as it is constructed using 20-gauge steel. The heavy-duty steel structuring makes this dog cage almost indestructible. It is built to withstand even the most powerful canine’s escape efforts. There are two door latches, and the unit is rust-resistant.

Have you ever come home from work only to discover that your pooch has managed to get out of his cage, destroying not only his cage but also some of your household belongings? With the Pro Select Empire, there should be no need for worry.

Customers tell us that although the Pro Select is expensive, it proves its worth in the long run. A perfect 5-star rating on Amazon.com backs up these assertions. One buyer told us, “My dog seems less anxious in this crate, and it looks as new as the day we put it together.” He added, “I am certain had I bought another [inferior] wire crate, he would have destroyed it or hurt himself, and I’d have to get another and another…”

One downside is that although the cage has wheels, it is exceedingly heavy. One customer reported that it took “two men to bring it off the truck” and into his home. In other words, you can’t just fold it up and go. But it does come with four casters, so you can wheel it around. As far as sturdy dog cages go, this one is about as sharp as they come.

• Dimensions: 42 1/4″L x 30 3/4″W x 41 1/4″H
• Also Included: Floor grate, steel tray, locking casters
• Recent Price: $599.98, shipping included.

2. Best Pet Heavy-Duty Dog Cage With Wheels, 42 inch

The 42-inch Best Pet Heavy-Duty Dog Cage works great for strong dogs, such as pit bulls and German shepherds. It is noted for its sturdy steel construction, making it strong and durable. It comes equipped with four removable wheels, two of which can be locked down. The top opens, allowing you to easily get to your dog. It is basically pre-assembled, so we’ve found that putting it together is simple enough.

One customer informed us that her dog got out a short time after he was put in the cage. By removing one of the vertical bars, he was able to walk right out! Her opinion is that no matter how strong the kennel, if your dog has the right amount of strength and the “want to,” he can get out.

Another dissatisfied customer told us that although her pet had always managed to easily escape from cheap plastic crates by chewing, he had to work a little longer gnawing on this cage, but eventually he reached his goal and found his way out.

Finally, a somewhat pleased owner of a Best Pet cage was a little aggravated when she realized it did not have any assembly instructions. Once she got it together, however, it seems to have been worth her effort — her dog loves it.

• Dimensions: 42″L x 28″W x 34″H
• Also Included: N/A
• Recent Price: I found it on Amazon.com for $249.99.

3. Midwest Life Stages Double Door Folding Dog Crate

On the lower end of the price (and quality) spectrum, the Midwest Life Stages Double Door Folding Metal Dog Crate is built for dogs weighing up to 48 pounds. Its suitcase look signals that it’s easy to set up, carry or fold. However, it is not nearly as sturdy as the pricier products we’ve shown here.

This dog cage comes with a divider panel, enabling you to adjust the amount of living space your pup needs. This feature makes it useful for dogs from the puppy stage right up to adulthood. It has also been known to be a plus in housebreaking a dog. The less living space the dog is given, the less likely he is to use that space for his bathroom.

This model comes equipped with a side door as well as a front door, making it more convenient to use inside vehicles. Other noteworthy features include slide bolt latches and a plastic pan, which is easy to slide out and clean.

The majority of buyers seem to think this is a good choice for pet owners who live in apartments or small homes. They also think the Midwest Life Stages crate is just what you should have if your puppy loves to gnaw on your furniture.

Two complaints we have heard from recent customers is that the crate is too heavy and that the latches don’t tighten up enough to keep their pets from pawing their way out.

Considering the cheaper price, the handiness of transportation, and the one-year limited warranty, the Midwest Life Stages pet crate may be considered a good deal for the small-pet owner, but if you want sturdy, look elsewhere.

• Dimensions: 36″L x 24″W x 27″H
• Also Included: Plastic pan
• Recent Price: Dirt cheap on at Amazon.com for around $37.99.

I hope you’ve enjoyed reading these sturdy dog cages reviews!

Doesn't Olive look pretty in her harness?

Not long ago, a friend was in a serious accident that resulted in two deaths: another passenger and the family dachshund. The human was killed on impact. The dachshund, who was not restrained in the car, jumped out after the accident, ran into freeway traffic and was immediately hit by a car.

When I heard about this tragic event, I vowed to make sure my dogs were properly restrained whenever I took them with me in the car. The expense and slight inconvenience of using the appropriate vehicle safety items is well worth the risk.

The Basics

Keep your dog safe in the car. They aren’t children, but with respect to car travel, you should treat dogs as you would young kids. Your pet should always sit in the back seat, secured with a safety restraint. Don’t let him ride in the front seat, and don’t allow him to roam the bed of your truck, which is illegal in many communities.

Harness

The first item you need to get is a harness for your dog. If you restrain your dog with a collar only, he can be strangled if you get into a wreck, especially if you rear-end someone. By using a harness, you’ll protect your dog’s neck and spine.

There are many different kinds of harnesses on the market, but I prefer fabric harnesses that wrap around the dog’s neck and torso. Many of these harnesses also have a loop on the top through which you can thread the seat belt.

Fabric harnesses are more costly than other types of harnesses — around $30 to $60, depending on your dog’s size — but they last forever, and you can find them in all kinds of patterns and styles.

Seat Belt

Dog seat belts attach to the harness, keeping your dog immobilized in the back seat. There are two basic models: those that attach to your car’s seat belt and those that clip into the female end of the seat belt lock. Either kind of pet seat belt will work just fine; select the one that works best for your car. (Here is a good all-in-one seat belt and harness, and another for larger dogs.)

The Lookout booster seat is comfortable and safe — all that's missing is a harness.

Booster Seat

Because I have small dogs who love to look out the window, I am enamored of booster seats, as are my dachshunds. Designed to fit in your back seat, booster seats are secured with your automobile’s seat belt, around which you clip a dog seat belt that you attach to the harness.

Booster seats not only provide a safe place for travel, but they’re as comfortable as a dog bed. Most are made out of sturdy foam core topped with fabric and fleece. Add a blanket, and you’re good to go.

Booster seats provide maximum comfort and a view for your pup. Although ours is starting to look a little worse for wear, we bought it six years ago, so they last a long time. Here’s a popular model made by Solvit.

Crate

The absolute safest way to transport your dog is in the back seat, confined to a hard-sided crate that you’ve secured with a seat belt. In the event of an accident, your dog will be completely protected. Place the crate in the back seat, and then thread the seat belt through the handle.

All these items, which will help keep your dog safe in the car, are available online, and you can find most of them in pet stores, too.

As someone who is consistently overrun with canines large and small, I have several large wire kennels placed strategically around the house, all of which are hideous. I’ve tried dressing them up with colorful cloths and other marginally attractive solutions, but it just can’t be done. A crate is a crate is a crate.

Except when it’s not.

In the past several years, as our knowledge of pet behaviors has changed, it’s become common to have a wire or plastic kennel for your pooch. Not only do crates contain them when you need them to stay put, but they’re also cozy, safe dens in which most dogs enjoy snoozing, even with the door open.

With so many people now using crates, manufacturers have gotten smart and created stylish dog crates that serve multiple purposes, one of which is not making your house look awful.

These kinds of designer kennels come with hefty price tags, but if you’re into a chic, clutter-free, crate-free house, the cost could  be worth it for you.

My favorite pseudo-crate is this solid-oak kennel (pictured at left) that doubles as a table. At 27″H x 24″W x 36″D for a large crate and 27″H x 18″W x 24″D for a small one, these crates are roomy enough for most dogs without being obtrusive.

But the best part is that the kennel is a piece of furniture that is not only attractive but useful. Stick a lamp and a candy dish on it, and you have a lovely end table for your living room.

At around $400, this designer dog crate furniture is not cheap. However, if you figure in the cost of a new end table, it’s not that bad. Available in mahogany and cherry stains.

Using the same design philosophy, the TownHaus Indoor Wooden Dog Crate Table (pictured here) works equally well in the living room, den or bedroom. If your dog likes to chill in his crate with the door open, you can easily remove the door, giving him free range and saving you from tripping over the open door yet again.

Built from hardwood and stained espresso, the TownHaus crate pictured is 26″ tall, just the right size for a nightstand. Also available in small and large with mahogany or espresso finishes. The TownHaus crate ranges from $500 to $600.

Although the eiCrate, designed by Peter Pracilio for designGO!, isn’t a multipurpose piece of furniture, it’s very, very cool looking, especially if you have a modern or Mid-Century home.

If your pet needs a closed space to keep her feeling warm and toasty, you can buy a removable cover for an additional $160.

Available in silver, black, gold and white, the eiCrate is about 25″ tall and 35″ wide at the base. If you’re smitten with the silver, black and white models, you’ll pay only $220 or so, but if you opt for the gold, you’ll pay a whopping $11,000 — yes, it’s made from 22.5k gold.

Martini lovers and Rat Pack fans will adore the BowHaus Cocktail Table and Dog Den, a relentlessly chic kennel that does triple duty as a crate, cocktail table and status symbol.

Made of durable powder-coated steel, this stylish dog crate is 15 1/2″ tall and 21″diameter. The little door closes, allowing your pet in-and-out privileges. Folks living green will appreciate that the packaging is 100 percent recyclable and the product is made in the United States, eliminating energy expended on overseas shipping.

The BowHaus costs a staggering $750, which would have been peanuts for the Chairman of the Board.

Crafted from durable fiberglass and topped with shatterproof glass, the ZenHaus crate (at left) combines style with practicality. The design is similar to the BowHaus kennel, but at $525 the price is slightly more reasonable.

As with the TownHaus, the door on this one is removable, and the opaque glass top allows light inside. Available in two sizes, 20″ and 28″ tall, and three colors, white, black and mint.

As a starving writer, I’m probably stuck with my makeshift crate/table/monstrosity, but if anyone is interested, I’d love two of the TownHauses for the living room. Thanks in advance!

What do you think about stylish dog crates? Would you buy one, given how expensive they are? Or would the sleek design be worth the cost? Share your thoughts in the comments section below.

Min pin crate training doesn't have to be difficult. We break it down into 5 easy steps.

Crate training is the easiest way to house train your miniature doberman pinscher, and keeps your li’l puppy safe at the same time.

In this article, we’ll discuss a method of min pin crate training in just 5 steps. This is a quick and easy way to make your min pin puppy feel secure, happy and comfortable in his own little bedroom. No dog likes to use the bathroom where it sleeps, so crate training is a great housebreaking program.

1. Be sure to purchase a crate that is not too big. (It shouldn’t be too small either.) It should be comfortable for your min pin to sleep in as well as roomy enough for him to stand up and turn around. Line the crate with a soft and comfortable blanket. Attach food and water bowls to the door so your miniature pinscher is never left hungry or thirsty.

2. Introduce your little one to the crate. The introduction is actually very important. Never just pick the dog up and shove him in it. He needs to explore the crate and realize that it is a good place. Hide treats and long lasting chew toys inside of the crate. A favorite stuffed toy will also help to make your miniature pinscher more comfortable in his new room. Let him go in and out at will. Providing the puppy is familiar with the crate and not afraid of it, you can move onto the third step.

3. Gently place your min pin inside the crate. Praise him and give him a special treat. Close and latch the door. Stay in the room and go about other activities for a few minutes. Open the crate door and continue as if the gate were never closed. The dog will come out on his own. Do not coax him to exit the crate because he should be able to stay in there if he wants to do so.

4. Now put the little one in the crate and latch the door. Be sure he has treats, toys, food and especially water. Stay in the room for five minutes but do not talk to the puppy. After that time, walk out of the room quietly. Leave the min pin in the crate for an hour. If he cries, reassure him that all is well and leave him.

5. Finally, exercise your min pin just before bedtime. Be sure he is tuckered out. Place him in the crate and tell him good night. If he cries, reassure him that everything is OK. If he continues to whine, a sharp “hush” should do the trick. Be sure to have the lights off at bedtime.

You should understand that the method of min pin crate training in just 5 steps will take at least a week. Be consistent, and your miniature pinscher puppy will be sleeping soundly in no time.

Photo: johnthesaintjohn/Flickr

Many pet owners complain of a gnawing behavior problem: their dog chews too much! However, this is a natural activity for all canines. They chew. They gnaw. It’s that simple.

Most pets gnaw on things out of boredom (or out of canine anxiety). If they have nothing to do they will find something to chomp on in order to occupy their time. It is important to leave things he is allowed to munch on around the house. Rawhide flips, nylabones, cow hooves, Kong toys and the like are long-lasting chewable treats that your pet will absolutely love. By leaving enough of a variety of proper things to occupy him, there is a lesser chance that he will choose to eat your dining room table legs or couch pillows.

Human babies teethe, and so do puppies. Always keep appropriate toys for the puppy to chew on (and ultimately destroy). By providing things that are acceptable for your him to be chewing annihilating, you will be protecting the items you don’t want him to tear apart.

Don’t forget to pick up things like shoes and socks that you don’t want him to chew while you’re not home. Some trainers have even recommended smearing a little petroleum jelly laced with hot sauce to couch legs and other likely chewing zones — but this seems a bit overboard to us. Logic suggests that the deterrent won’t make your dog learn to stop chewing but rather that he should chew on something else. There are commercial “stop dog chewing” sprays (such as Grannick’s Bitter Apple) and gels that serve the same purpose. Use these deterrents under supervision at first.

If you catch your pet in the act of chewing on something inappropriate, you can reprimand him by shaking a can filled with coins or some other distraction like clapping your hands loudly and yelling “No!” Then immediately provide a toy that is acceptable to chew and pet him when he starts chewing this “good” toy. He’ll get the idea. Never, ever reprimand well after the fact — so if you come home and find a destroyed sock, it’s too late to yell. Just pick up the sock, throw it away and hold back your anger. You have to catch him in the act for any correction to work. A bit of patience is required on your part.

All that said, maybe you do have a dog that chews too much. Some do. They have a crazy need to munch on everything they possible can find. Sometimes they even eat dangerous items like nails or wood! (This is really bad.) For any of these few problem doggies, we would advise crating them when you are not watching them. This not only keeps your stuff safe but keeps your pet safe too. A lot of people don’t realize that one bite on an electrical cord can kill your pet and/or set your house on fire. Neither option is acceptable, so sometimes it is better to kennel or crate your dog when unattended.

Furniture that has been made out of particle board may have creosote in it. Creosote is highly toxic to dogs and can kill them. We know you don’t want your furniture destroyed, but we also know you don’t want your pet dead either. The safest thing if you want to know what to do if your dog chews too much is to confine him. Dog crating safeguards your property, your home and your puppy.

If your dog chews too much and nothing you have tried works, have your veterinarian take a look. Sometimes destructive dog chewing can signal pain with the teeth or gums.

Sources include: Humane Society

Top photo: rattarrell/Flickr