Obedience training class

Dogs are amazing animals that can be trained to do all kinds of things. From hunting to sniffing out controlled substances, tracking people and animals, and serving as a blind person’s eyes, these intelligent and loyal creatures can learn a lot. Of course, when it comes to your puppy, you’d really just be happy if he was housebroken, didn’t chew things and did what you told him to, right?

Handing your pet over to someone else to train is a good way to ensure it’s done the right way and he doesn’t pick up any bad habits. The results can be quick and impressive, and you will also learn how to carry on this training at home.

However, you need to be sure that you are comfortable with the training school’s methods and approaches before you enroll your pet. The best thing to do is to visit and watch a class without your dog, and see how you feel about what takes place in the session. Here are four things to look out for when choosing a dog obedience training school:

1. Is Everyone Happy?

This doesn’t just mean the canines. Of course, training should be enjoyable for the students, so if the dogs seem to be having a bit of fun, that is a very good sign — but also look at your fellow pet owners. Are they participating much? Have people been encouraged to bring their children along to get involved with the training process?

2. How Are They Training the Animals?

Look at the tools and methods the trainers are using and teaching. Red flags that this is not a good place for your dog include the use of things like electronic collars or choke chains. The best way to train a dog is with praise and small rewards. If the trainers are in any way physical when berating a dog — for example, pulling on the leash or hitting him — look for another school.

If the teachers at your child’s school were choking or smacking him or her, you would have the teacher out of there in a flash, and it should be no different for your puppy while he’s learning dog obedience.

3. Are There Enough Professional Trainers?

To get good value for money out of your sessions, you are going to want to look at how much attention and time your pet is going to get. One trainer dealing with 20 dogs and families is not going to give you optimal attention. There should be at least one professional there for every six dogs in the class.

4. Is It a Nice Environment?

Have a look around. Is there enough space? Is it hygienic, or does it smell like a million wet dogs? Is there a lot of clutter that might distract your dog? Also, is the space well secured, with any gates latched and all doors closed? The last thing you want is for your dog to make a break for it if he’s not enjoying his lesson.

By taking care and checking out a few different obedience schools or training providers, you should be able to find one that will give you the results you want, as well as providing a fun activity for your family and a great bonding experience for you and your new pet, in a safe and healthy environment.

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This guest post was written by Ajeet Khurana, who writes about dog training on his blog http://dog-obedience.net. Photo: ActiveSteve/Flickr

Source: 4 Tips for Choosing a Dog Obedience Training School

Written by Guest Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

Air travel tips for dogs: Flying with a dog requires some extra preparation.

How I travel depends on whether the dog is coming along! Obviously when I am flying alone there are no special considerations to worry about, but when the dog comes I need to perform some prep work.

Here are the 10 most important air travel tips for people with dogs:

1. Call the Airline

This is the first step you should take. There are several important questions to ask:

• Where will your dog be placed on the plane, and is that area pressurized and climate-controlled?
• What is the height and weight limits for a dog to fly inside the cabin with you?
• Are there any breeds that are restricted or forbidden?
• What are the fees? If flying inside the cabin, does the dog need its own reservation or ticket?
• What paperwork does the airline require?
• Is travel insurance available that covers your dog?
• What is the airline’s emergency procedure in regard to pets?

2. Keep It Short

Try to avoid layovers whenever possible and look for short, direct flights in moderate weather. If your flight is delayed, ask an employee to check on your pet. For extended delays, it may be possible to retrieve your dog until the new departure time is confirmed.

3. See the Vet

Have your dog’s health checked and make sure the vaccinations are current. Discuss sedation with your veterinarian and microchipping (if not done already).

4. Check Your Dog’s Vaccination Records

Get a copy of any records you may need once your vet confirms your dog is safe to travel. Make sure you have three copies for travel: one each for you, the crate and the airline personnel.

5. Know Where You’re Going

Ask about check-in and pickup procedures and where the areas are located. Most airlines have websites that show the layout of the facility and the individual airlines. Make sure you know where to drop off and pick up your pet. If you don’t, ask the airline and arrive early.

6. Check the Crate

Make sure your dog crate is clean, safe, large enough for your dog to stand up in and turn around, and secure. Make sure the door closes and remains secure, but do not lock the door — airline personnel may need to open the door in the event of an emergency.

Include a favorite toy or item of yours so the dog will have familiar smells and feel safe. Line the bottom with puppy pads for accidents and cover with a blanket or old shirt. Include an extra leash and snacks, and attach food dishes and water bottles if possible. If you are traveling during or through extreme heat or humidity, freeze water in a container 2/3 full and place this in the crate before boarding.

7. Examine Your Dog

Check for any injuries, trim the nails and take a current photograph. Print at least three copies of the photograph in color to take with you (one for you, one for the crate and one for the airline).

8. Hydrate and Take Potty Breaks

Make sure your pet is well hydrated before flying and allow extra time to take a potty break before entering the airport.

9. Make Time for Exercise on the Departure Day

Prepare some time for extra walks or play to allow your pet to relieve stress and anxiety.

10. Triple Everything

Keep three copies of every document: vaccinations, photos of your pet, your itinerary and any tags or identifying documentation. Keep one with you, place another set in a waterproof bag secured to the crate and give yet another set to the airline personnel. If you can make another copy of your documents and the dog’s photograph, give one to the airline crew when you board so they know you are traveling with an animal. This way, if your dog is lost or is in an emergency, you will have all necessary information for identification or location. The ASPCA also recommends writing “LIVE ANIMAL,” along with an arrow to indicate which way the crate should be placed (right side up).

Don’t leave these preparations for the last minute. Your vet might be on vacation or closed, your crate might not be the right size or the airline might not accept your pet on the flight you plan to book. If you need to transport your pet but do not need to be present on the flight, Pet Airways is an animal-only flight carrier designed just for your best friend. Preparing early can help you avoid headaches later!

Additional Resources

• Airline Flight Information from the AKC
• ASPCA Travel Tips
• Pet Airways

Photo: michaelwhays/Flickr

Source: 10 Air Travel Tips for Dogs

Written by Kristine Lacoste Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

Dear Pets Adviser: I got two kittens from two different litters from the SPCA in July. One was 2 months old, and the other was 5 months. From day one, there was no problem with potty training. Both cats shared the box. But right before Thanksgiving, the younger cat, as we finally determined, was pooping right next to the box. We’re pretty sure she pees in the box, though. She’s a happy and affectionate cat and gets along very well with her older brother. We have tried soft love to tough love, but nothing is working. Help! — Glen

Congratulations on your new additions! Like all smart cat people, you wisely adopted two kittens instead of one, so you’re probably enjoying some amusing kitty antics. Aren’t they adorable?

But they’re not so cute when they don’t use their litter boxes. Cat poo is one of the vilest smells on the planet, and nothing tops the ammonia-scented odor of cat pee. When they use their boxes, the smell is contained, but when they don’t use the box? It can take years and multiple cleanings to remove the stench, and even then you can expect the ghost of cat pee to return whenever it rains.

For cats, who prefer things neat and tidy, litter box training isn’t difficult. In fact, some cats seem to be born knowing where to potty! So why is it that your cat won’t poo in the litter box? Read on.

Cats Can’t Talk

If your cat starts peeing or pooing outside her box, the first thing you should do is take her to the vet for a full checkup, including blood, urine and fecal exams. Your cat can’t speak human or use a keyboard, so she can have a hard time telling you if something is wrong. Changes in behavior, especially elimination, can be a strong warning signal that your cat is feeling under the weather. To be safe, make sure there isn’t a medical reason for her new behavior.

Cats are Fussy

Unlike dogs, who enjoy rolling in all sorts of unpleasant things, cats are fussy and fastidious, especially about their bathroom habits. If they don’t like the litter you’re using, they’ll let you know by refusing to potty on it. If you don’t keep the litter box clean enough for their liking, they won’t use it. If you’ve recently changed the kind of litter you buy, change it back. Scoop at least once a day, preferably twice.

My cat won't use the litter box!

Cats Don’t Like to Share

Even though your cute kittens may have shared everything since you adopted them, they might be at the age when they need their own space. Your Pretty Princess could be letting you know that her big brother doesn’t keep the bathroom clean enough for her. (For people like Glen who have multi-cat households, read the very good primer from Dr. Deb on keeping the peace in the house.)

So Glen, get another litter box. Although some cat behaviorists recommend two boxes per cat, I have found that one per cat suffices. Let’s hope your kitten’s sibling will stay out!

Cats Love Revenge

If you can’t resolve the problem with any of the above solutions, you probably have a behavioral problem on your hand. In other words, your cat is pissed at you and getting her revenge by pooping where she’s not supposed to. Did you serve dinner too late? Work too many hours that day? Have a new baby, adopt a new pet, move the furniture, change the cat litter, change the brand of food you give her?

Any these slights could be the cause of your cat’s naughty behavior. Finding the cause can be tricky, so start by correcting any easy changes. Move the furniture back, return to the former cat litter or food and do anything else — short of giving away the baby — to return your pet’s environment to how it used to be.

The most likely cause, however, is that your cat wants more attention from you. If she feels like you’re ignoring her, she’ll punish you by exacting revenge. Thwart her vengeance by setting aside time during the day to pet her, play with her and give her treats.

Cats Are Mystifying

If you’ve eliminated the possibility of medical, environmental or simple behavioral issues, you’re one lucky dog. If not, welcome to my life.

I adopted my cat Annie when she was only a few weeks old. At the time, I had another female cat and was a dozen years away from becoming a dog person. All that changed after I got married and adopted my first dog, and then my second, and third, and fourth… Although the kitties were safely ensconced in our sunny guest room, which was plenty large for two 16-year-old cats.

But then Lucy, Annie’s longtime companion, died of kidney disease, and I began boarding dogs in earnest. Although I found it annoying, it was no surprise when Annie started to pee on the bed. After going through the checklist, I accepted that the only way she’d stop was for me to get rid of all the dogs, and that wasn’t going to happen.

I wasn’t able to heal the wound, but I found an excellent Band-Aid: a waterproof mattress pad with the sides cut off, spread over the made-up bed. Yeah, it’s not a solution, but it keeps the bed dry and clean.

I wish you luck resolving your kitty’s potty problems. Be sure to report back and let us know how it goes!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vttUDqGtlDk

Source: Help! My Cat Won’t Use the Litter Box!

Written by Tamar Love Grande Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

Dalmatians have very distinctive markings.

Breed

Dalmatian

Group

Non-Sporting

Physical Description

Dalmatians are distinctive in their coat pattern and are the only spotted breed, according to the AKC. Their short coats are white with either black or brown (liver) spots. They stand between 19 and 23 inches and weigh between 35 to 75 pounds. Dalmatians live an average of 10 to 15 years.

Origin

The Dalmatian is rumored to have come from Dalmatia, off the coast of Austria. The breed appears in historical documentations for hundreds of years in a variety of countries before it was titled and listed as a Dalmatian in the middle 18^thcentury.

Portion of a painting, circa 1360, with spotted dogs: Dalmatians?

A painting in Italy in 1360 displayed a dog with spots similar to the Dalmatian, so its original origin is unknown. Most impressive is the lack of change in the breed over such a long period of time.

The Dalmatian was a jack of all trades throughout history, holding jobs such as herding, dog of war, fire apparatus follower, retriever and hunter, and is revered as the only coaching dog. The breed was registered with the AKC in 1888.

Purpose

The Dalmatian has a natural connection to horses but is most commonly used as a companion pet and firehouse mascot.

Temperament

The Dalmatian has a natural protective instinct and moves with purpose. The dog has guarding and herding instincts inherited from centuries of breeding. Dalmatians are fast, intelligent, alert and active. They are best suited in a family environment and are very friendly. The AKC describes the breed as stable and dignified with possible shyness. These pets are energetic and happy and thrive on human interaction.

The puppy in this video is only 6 months old, and can do all sorts of tricks on command:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wEcDiECc0Ik

Exercise Needs

Dalmatians are active pets that need daily exercise. They also have a high endurance level and work well as performance animals. Some owners report a high energy level in the first year as a cause for some dogs to be returned, but regular, firm training and patience will be rewarding in the long run.

Dalmatians are bred to follow and need a clear and consistent leader. Daily walks should take place with the dog at your side or behind you.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZ6bB653k8k

Grooming Requirements

Dalmatians will blow their coat biannually, but still shed constantly. They need brushing at least once a week, preferably more. The only other grooming they require is a nail trim and an occasional ear cleaning. Bathing is usually done only when necessary as Dalmatians are very clean animals.

Common Health Problems

Up to 12 percent of Dalmatians are born deaf. Deaf puppies can be effectively raised and trained, and puppies should be tested around six weeks old. Dalmatians are also prone to urinary stones and skin allergies.

Is the Dalmatian the Right Dog for You?

Dalmatians are not suitable for small apartments or confined outside areas in cold weather.

They need daily exercise. They get along with children and other pets and truly enjoy being in the company of people. They love to run and jog and make excellent exercise companions.

Dalmatians are also very intelligent and can test your patience, but the reward is a loyal, protective and loving dog that makes you the center of its world. If you have the space, time and attention to provide, there’s a Dalmatian waiting for you.

Additional Resources

• Dalmatian Club of America
• Second Chances Rescue
• Care Guide

Photo: dogbrush/Flickr

Source: Breed Profile: Dalmatian

Written by Kristine Lacoste Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

Janie Semprevivo, with Henry (left) and Tey-ha

At Pets Adviser, we’re extremely proud of our loyal readers. Today we profile our very first “Facebook Fan of the Month,” a brand-new way for all of us to learn more about one another.

You already know what Pets Adviser is, and what causes we stand for, so the question is, How about you? What makes you tick? And even better, what are your pets like? :)

This month, we welcome Janie Semprevivo, of East Rutherford, New Jersey. (Go Giants!) She is the founder and owner of Wag ‘N Wash, a grooming business. Join in on our conversation:

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Hi Janie, congrats on being our first “Facebook Fan of the Month!” Why don’t we start out with you telling us a little bit about your pets.

Tey-ha is a 3 ½ year old border collie/English pointer mix. Henry is a 3-year-old (give or take) Jack Russell terrier/beagle mix.

Nice! And how did you get them?

Tey-ha, whose name is Native American for Precious, came from a high-kill shelter in Kentucky. She was rescued by Above and Beyond English Setter Rescue as a puppy, along with her two sisters. She is one of the most intelligent dogs I’ve ever owned. She has done agility, sheep herding, lure coursing and loves obedience training. She received her CGC in 2010.

Look at her go! That's Tey-ha, lure coursing extraordinaire.

With the exception of Tey-ha and my first dog, Pepper, all of my previous dogs came from the streets rather than shelters. Henry is my latest addition. Henry found us in July 2010. I had seen him for four weeks running around the same two streets near my house. We were having a severe heat wave, and he had no food or water. I and many other people tried to get him to come, but it was futile as he was terrified.

One evening while I was taking Tey-ha for her evening walk, he jumped out of the bushes and onto Tey’s back. She did not become agitated. He continued to follow us and sniff her. For five blocks across busy streets he followed until we coaxed him into the gate. He was a biter, unneutered, and had bad teeth and an ear infection. Anyone who knows him will tell you how far he has come through my constant work and love. He and Tey-ha are best friends.

I saw on your own Facebook profile where you said, “I am tired of hearing pets being referred to as property. They are not property like a pocketbook or a car; they are living, breathing, sentient creatures, and deserve to be treated as such.” Hearing pets described as property is definitely irritating! But, of course, it’s deeper than that. Can you talk a little about how “property” ties in with puppy mills?

I think it is the way the puppy mill dogs are treated and then sold by pet stores. For a puppy mill breeder, dogs are not considered pets or creatures that need veterinary care or socialization. They are livestock like cattle or goats — and as such, dogs sold = profits. Puppy mills should be illegal. If the law is changed, then those people who purchase dogs from pet stores and whose dogs develop illnesses can sue after the lemon law expires.

As Susan Chana Lask, the attorney handling this case, cited:

“If the definition of a pet is changed from that of property to an animate being with feelings, it could substantially change the amount of damages that could be awarded when an owner buys a defective dog born in a puppy mill…. That could, in turn, have a chilling effect on pet stores buying animals from puppy mills out of fear of getting slammed with large payouts from lawsuits.”

I wholeheartedly agree as it would send a message to pet stores and puppy millers that selling defective dogs is illegal, and maybe not right away but later you will pay the price for your cruelty.

What do you think is the most important issue facing pet owners right now?

As a groomer, I would say two of the most important issues are 1) feeding your pet a healthy, nutritious food without ingredients from China; and 2) being educated about vaccines and how to talk to your veterinarian. In my business a large percentage of my time is spent advising people about the right food to feed their pets. I am an advocate of raw feeding and have been for over 10 years, but not everyone can afford to feed their pets this way as it is cost-prohibitive.

On your website, you mention your role in getting your local pound to “stop its abuse of sheltered animals.” Can you tell us more?

This took place in the late ’80s and early ’90s when I was a corporate marketing manager in Elizabeth, New Jersey. The city then had its hands full with strays and packs of dogs. Back then, there was no Petfinder; you only had a clandestine network of animal people to call on the telephone and try to place animals. It was hard work and difficult for a one-person rescue, namely me. Over the eight years I worked there I not only took animals from the street but out of the pound.

I actually got a call from a local rescue woman about a dog in a garbage can. She gave me the location, and when I went, yes, it was a dog in a garbage can — but one that was burnt with battery acid. A local vet in Elizabeth always made time to see the animals I found. This dog required round-the-clock care. I kept her, and her name was Buttons. She passed away three years ago at the age of 15. Amen.

I wrote county officials about the conditions at the local pound and the amount of dogs being abandoned at the seaport area, and finally something was done. Those eight years of my life were difficult as I had a big responsibility at my job as one of the only women in management and on top of that a new dog came every day that needed help.

Let’s talk about your grooming business, Wag ‘N Wash. What would you say your mission is, besides sparkly clean pets, that is!

My mission is to provide outstanding service to my customers, to care and treat their pets as if they were my very own, and to educate my customers on subjects such as low-cost spay/neuter, food and supplements. Wag ‘N Wash will be celebrating its 12th anniversary in April. I am thankful every day that I switched to an animal-related profession. The start was difficult as it took several years to get funding for my original idea of a DIY dog wash/full-service grooming salon. There were really none back in 1999. But I am glad it all worked out — every day is a new adventure.

What led you down the path from the corporate world to where you are now?

I was privileged to work at some great companies like CBS Television, Rodgers and Hammerstein, as well as several food advertising agencies and manufacturers as an account executive and marketing manager. I realized after working in corporate for 22 years that my heart was not in it. I had been in the trenches with animals; I saved many animals’ lives — and now I wanted to learn a skill to work with them on a daily basis.

I met a young woman at an adoption day I was volunteering at, and I asked her how she got started and what she did. She offered me a job as a bather on Saturdays for $5 an hour. I worked for her every Saturday for two years. The groomers in her shop were fast and efficient, and I could not get the gist of breed-specific grooming. I left and attended Nash Academy on Saturdays while I worked my corporate job. I graduated after 18 months and began preparing my business plan for Wag ‘N Wash. My financing came through, and here I am today.

Got any funny grooming stories to share, just off the top of your head?

I once had a woman many years ago who wanted me to make her poodle look like a Yorkshire terrier. I told her that they were completely different breeds, that one was a drop coat and the other a curly coat. I sweetly explained that I couldn’t turn an apple into an orange. She left and curtly told me that she would find someone who could do this.

One last question, Janie. What’s your favorite thing about Pets Adviser?

Just about all of your content is interesting. I was most impressed by the story and the research you did on some of the top pet food brands using ingredients and nutraceuticals from China. I find that I repost a lot of what you write to my Wag ‘N Wash Facebook page as it is something that pet owners should know about. As you know, you get very bogged down with everything that you read on the Internet, but I wait for your new articles. I am so glad I found you.

And we’re glad we found YOU, Janie!

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Stay tuned next month for a look at our next “Facebook Fan of the Month.” If you haven’t “Liked” Pets Adviser on Facebook yet, what are you waiting for?! Join our community of more than 600 pet owners — and maybe one of these days you’ll even see yourself profiled here too.

Source: Facebook Fan of the Month: Janie Semprevivo

Written by David Deleon Baker Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

February is the Humane Society’s Spay/Neuter Awareness Month (its annual World Spay Day is officially February 28).

If you’re reading Pets Adviser, you’re probably in love with your pets and are fully aware that spaying/neutering is the best thing for them. Unfortunately, I still get a good bit of resistance from some owners. Culture and ignorance dictate what people think about “fixing” their pets.

Celebrate Spay/Neuter Awareness Month

One thing is certain: Cost should not be a factor. I try to keep spay/neuter affordable even at my “full service” hospital. But if your regular veterinarian has a fee that presents a hardship for you, there is plenty of assistance from many organizations and quite a few low-cost spay/neuter clinics around. Ask your veterinarian or check out the Humane Society or the ASPCA. You can find spay/neuter programs in your area by typing in your zip code.

If you are contemplating acquiring an animal, many reputable shelters will not adopt a pet without it being spayed/neutered. This includes puppies and kittens because of safe early spay/neuter programs. If you are buying an animal, then you should be able to afford to spay or neuter it yourself.

Don’t buy a breed! Adopt a pet in need.

Health Benefits: There are many health benefits to spay/neuter. Females are at less risk for infections of the reproductive tract (pyometra) and mammary tumors (breast cancer). Males will not develop testicular tumors and will be less prone to prostate and associated urinary problems. Cats, in particular, will have less exposure to fatal diseases such as feline leukemia and the feline AIDS virus if they are spayed/neutered. They will fight less and will not be mating, which means they will be avoiding the most common ways these feline diseases are spread.

Behavioral Benefits: Behavior problems are lessened when a pet is spayed or neutered. Males tend to exhibit fewer testosterone-driven behaviors, such as urine marking, aggression and roaming. Females are less likely to fight as well.

Animal Welfare: Obviously, your pet will not be able to reproduce, helping to control the ever growing and unwanted pet population. That said, the animal welfare community has been unable to convince everyone of the benefits of spay/neuter.

Here are some sad stories from personal experience:

The Oldschools

Mr. and Mrs. Oldschool brought in their 7-year-old little dog, Candy, intact (not spayed). Candy was in good health, and I asked why she wasn’t spayed. They were new clients.

“He never wanted to,” said Mrs. O.

“Why not?” I asked them.

“Because,” Mrs. Oldschool answered, as if Mr. O wasn’t in the room, “he just never wanted to.”

I told them about the risks of Candy not being spayed. At her age, she might develop a bad pyometra (infection) or mammary tumors because she wasn’t spayed. Either of these conditions could threaten her life. I explained that she was still considered a good surgical candidate and that the spay surgery should be straightforward. Better to spay her now when she is in good health than wait until she is very sick or has cancer.

One year later, when Candy was 8, Mrs. Oldschool brought her back. Mrs. O had “felt something.” Candy had a small mammary tumor. I explained that it was important to remove the tumor and spay the dog. I didn’t want to overwhelm her, talking about chest X-rays and biopsies at this point. Explaining that not being spayed and mammary cancer were linked was enough information to communicate.

Seven months later, the couple came in together. Mr. O was carrying Candy. The dog’s little abdomen was covered with hard, painful mammary tumors. The tumors had ulcerated and were dragging on the floor. “What’s wrong with her?” Mr. O asked.

I considered the tumors to be almost inoperable at this point. “She has cancerous tumors,” I said.

“What can you do for her?”

My face conveyed what he already knew. I spoke quietly about drastic surgery, and I was honest that it would be very hard or impossible at this point. I talked about pain medicine. They sat. They left without speaking to me or to one another.

Two weeks later, at closing time, they brought Candy in. They didn’t have an appointment. They wouldn’t stay with her. He handed her to me, the crying muffled in his scarf.

I presume that Mr. Oldschool had always had dogs on the farm and they were never spayed or neutered. They lived, probably without health care, until they died. I believe he couldn’t imagine that something bad would happen to Candy and he couldn’t acknowledge the depth of his attachment until it was too late.

When a dog is not spayed, her body continues to make estrogen. The estrogen can cause mammary and reproductive tract tumors and uterine infections. Spaying a dog early in life removes this risk.

Mr. T

Mr. T is the rural New England version of Jersey Shore’s “The Situation.” Mr. T’s chest is exposed, and I really wish it wasn’t. I believe there’s a piercing or two, but I’m really not looking. He stands with a pelvic thrust. Of course he owns a pit bull.

Put on your seat belts. Explaining Bruno’s testosterone-dependent behaviors to Mr. T is going to be a wild ride.

“So Bruno’s more than a year now, T. You thinking about that neuter? I told you I thought he should be neutered at 6 months.” (Bruno joyfully walks to the corner of my exam room and lifts his leg on the door.) A snarl is heard. It’s not from the dog.

“Neuter,” Mr. T mutters. “Whafore?

“Well, you know after about a year and a half, dogs start to feel their hormones!” I decide to describe testosterone-dependent behaviors in the vernacular. “He’s going to piss on everything in sight (urine mark), cruise for bitches (roaming behavior) and maybe bite the living daylights out of someone or something (aggression).

“Nah, I like him the way he is. Look at that dog. He listens to me. He could have nice puppies or something.”

Or something, I think.

My chances are slim, but I talk to T about the responsibilities of owning a dog that has a tendency toward aggression and reiterate that Bruno may be great now but after 2 years of age, he just might not be that easy-going. The longer Bruno remains intact, the greater the possibility of testosterone wreaking havoc.

Should I tell Mr. T that the kill shelters in this country kill more pit bulls than any other breed? These poor dogs are frequently owned by irresponsible people; they’re abandoned, untrained, not neutered and nobody wants them.

Should I tell Mr. T that a great client of mine was a highly responsible pit bull owner but his wife forgot to latch the screen door only once, and Tintin burst out the door and killed his neighbor’s pomeranian in less than a minute — with both owners looking on, helpless? Tintin was wagging his tail on my exam table when his owner told me I had to put him down. It was a sad day.

I told Mr. T all that and more. Then I told him that if he didn’t neuter the dog, he shouldn’t come back to me.

Ms. Vague

Last week a nice enough lady brought my associate a very sick little foo-foo of a dog for an exam. (“Foo-foo” is a term of endearment we use at my hospital for any cute, furry little dog of some “lhasa-shee-poo-pom” extraction.) Angel hadn’t eaten for a week, and her vaginal area was putrid from draining pus. The dog was extremely ill. This was Friday and Ms. Vague was leaving for the weekend. My associate explained the gravity of Angel’s situation, that the dog had a pyometra (uterus filled with pus) and that if the uterus ruptured (broke open), Angel would become septic and could die. Angel should stay for surgery (an emergency spay).

Ms. Vague took this under consideration and left the hospital against medical advice. She took Angel with her to Cape Cod for the weekend and brought her to another vet on the Cape who told her the same thing about Angel’s condition. Monday was a holiday, so Ms. Vague called us on Monday, having stayed at the Cape the extra day, saying she could have Angel back at our hospital around 4 p.m. for the surgery. My wonderful associate was apparently more worried about Angel than her owner (who had never had her spayed) and performed emergency surgery at 5. What is wrong with some owners?!

Five days after surgery, IV fluids, tons of antibiotics, drugs to control vomiting and pain, Angel is doing well. She’s all fixed now. The suffering Angel endured, the possible risk and the cost to the owner could have been avoided if the dog had been spayed at an early age.

In these cases I’ve outlined, the decision to spay or neuter wasn’t about the money. Was it cultural in the case of the Oldschools? Stupidity or “machismo” in Mr. T’s case? Benign neglect with Ms. Vague? In any case, the animal welfare and veterinary community did not get through to these owners, and their pets suffered or died.

Cats!

Cats have similar problems to dogs when not spayed/neutered. Over-population, however, is even more extreme of a problem in cats than in dogs. That is why you should never let your cat “have kittens” just for the cuteness factor in it. Think about healthy kittens and cats being euthanized because there’s no one to adopt them. Then think again about letting your cat get pregnant just so you can give kittens away to your friends and neighbors. Let Aunt Sophie adopt at her local shelter so some shelter worker doesn’t have to euthanize another perfectly healthy kitten.

When I graduated from vet school (back in 1899), my very first job was with a hospital that did the work for our local rural animal shelter. Once in a while, when there was absolutely no more room at “the Inn,” I was required to euthanize healthy cats or kittens. I felt it was unfair to my fellow veterinarians to decline to do this, so I euthanized cats for the shelter once. Then I quit and found another job that didn’t require me to euthanize any animal I didn’t want to. But I vowed to do whatever I could in the future to cut down on euthanasias to save animal lives and to help animal welfare workers.

I leave you with my philosophy and soapbox thought for the week:

If you have a pet at home not spayed or neutered yet, either because of laziness on your part, financial reasons or some other ill-conceived notion, get off the couch and make plans to schedule the surgery soon.

1. Find out where you can get financial assistance in your community if you qualify.
2. Go on the Humane Society’s website if this article hasn’t convinced you it’s the right thing to do.
3. Know that you are saving your pet from future health complications and you are saving yourself some big vet bills in the future if you spay/neuter NOW!

Have a nice February. Look forward to a spring where there are fewer stray kittens left in dumpsters and fewer puppies in shelters living a miserable life. And if you have a little extra, donate to an animal welfare organization this month. It can be your Valentine’s present to somebody’s next big love of their life: a cat or a dog!

Source: Spay/Neuter Awareness Month: A Veterinarian’s Perspective

Written by Dr. Debora Lichtenberg, VMD Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

The monarch butterfly

When most of us think of pets, we think of furry and cuddly animals. However, insects are pets too, and today we take a closer look at butterflies as one beautiful example.

Butterflies are herbivores and typically have a life span of six to eight months. The North American monarchs are known for their colorful exterior and long migration routes to Mexico. There are some concerns about their habitats along migration routes, but they are still kept as pets and in zoo exhibits.

Monarch butterflies live all around the world and are poisonous enough to make an animal sick if eaten. The common North American variety is not poisonous but bears the same appearance, thus helping the insect to avoid predators.

What’s in a Name?

Butterflies received their name because of excrement that resembled butter and from a folk tale that because butterflies were commonly seen around milk pails, they were witches trying to steal milk and butter.

Life Span

Monarch butterflies have four stages of life:

1. Egg: The female monarch lays the egg on the leaf of a plant. The egg hatches within three to five days.
2. Larva: The egg hatches, and a caterpillar is released. The caterpillar will typically molt (shed its skin) four times before turning into what we recognize as a cocoon.
3. Pupa: The caterpillar spins silk to create the cocoon and attaches to a branch. The entire body is reorganized and emerges as a butterfly 10 to 12 days later.
4. Adult: Butterflies no longer grow during this stage and feed off liquids. Adults will reproduce.

Female monarchs try to find a milkweed plant so the emerging caterpillar has an immediate food source. Males can be distinguished from females by a dark spot on the hind wing that releases pheromones, while females have thicker wing veins.

Butterfly Releases

One ceremony most of us are familiar with or may have seen at weddings or funerals is a butterfly release. Companies in several different countries sell kits and individual butterflies for this purpose. The butterflies are placed in cool packaging and usually shipped as shown below:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fa6h_tNwtF0

Once received, the butterflies are kept cool to remain in a dormant state until an hour or two before their release. They are released in individual packaging or in a single container such as this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IYtQ5zEgTSY

Keeping Butterflies as Pets

Many children are fascinated with the pretty colors and friendly nature of butterflies. They may see them in nature or at zoo exhibits, and butterflies can be purchased alone or with kits for children to raise and maintain.

There are also several organizations that are trying to protect the monarch butterfly from extinction and the degradation of its habitats. Kids can get involved, whether raising one as a pet or learning more information online, and some organizations are specific to certain areas.

Some adults and children express a fear of butterflies because they consider them a harmful insect. Visiting the butterfly exhibit at your local zoo or introducing people to them as pets may ease the fear they experience when seeing one.

Do you have any experience with butterflies or butterfly kits? Tell us in a comment below.

Photo: frontendeveloper/Flickr

Source: Keeping Butterflies as Pets

Written by Kristine Lacoste Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

I have a dog who is 9 months old. I have had him for a month and know nothing about previous owners. When I leave the room, even if it’s only for a few seconds, he goes crazy. He whines and whimpers and is even worse when he is in his crate. He tries to get out. How can I solve this, as he is very noisy and upsetting the neighbors? I have tried covering his crate so he cannot see, but he still knows when I leave the room, no matter how quiet I am. I have left clothes with my scent on them near the crate, but he still knows. How does he know if he cannot see me leave and can smell my scent?
– Lee

First off, congratulations on adopting a dog! (Reading between the lines, my guess is that you got him from a shelter or rescue. Thank you for saving a life.) Unfortunately, it sounds like your pup has separation anxiety, which can be difficult to manage. In fact, his former owners may have given him up because of this behavior. Here’s how to deal with separation anxiety in a new dog.

Understanding Why Dogs Develop Separation Anxiety

As you’ve learned, dogs with uncertain pasts can come with baggage. You don’t know where they’ve been or what has been done to them, and shelter life often makes things worse. They feel abandoned, like children sent to foster care, and respond by becoming “velcro dogs” who are reluctant to leave your side. It’s bad enough when you’re in a different room at home, but when you leave, it can be unbearable for your dog, and he might act out with barking, inappropriate elimination or destructive behavior.

The good news is that because he’s a puppy still, you’ll have much better luck than if you adopted an older dog, who can be set in his ways. There’s still time to eradicate this behavior, but it will take effort, dedication and consistency on your part.

What Doesn’t Work

A common mistake that owners of dogs with separation anxiety make is thinking that a second dog will keep him company and make him less anxious when you aren’t home. Your dog wants you. By all means, adopt another dog, but don’t expect that this will cure the behavior.

For the same reason, your scent will not satisfy your dog. He knows you’re gone because he can’t see you, and the house is probably quieter than usual. Covering his crate is a good move, but it won’t work unless he’s emotionally comfortable in his crate.

Can Crate Training Cure Separation Anxiety?

One of the toughest things about separation anxiety is that crating him doesn’t make a difference. In fact, he probably hates it. The best thing you can do for him is to start him on a crate-training program, which can take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks to complete, depending on the dog. Meanwhile, you’ll also need to work on his barking.

As you train him, go slow and make sure he’s comfortable with each step of the training. Move at his pace, not yours. If you rush him, you run the risk of making the separation worse.

Other Ideas That Might Work

You’re right in thinking clothing that your scent can comfort him, but the scent needs to be inside the crate, not next to it. Your dog will want to roll around in your smell and perhaps cuddle with it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agnOSMS_4o0

If your dog doesn’t respond to training, ask your veterinarian about doggie Prozac. You might also try Rescue Remedy, but it doesn’t always work. You can also try a Thundershirt, which has proven successful for dogs with anxiety.

Good luck to you! Let us know how things go.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5X4GlN3X94o

Photo: protogrhapher20/Flickr

Source: How to Deal With Separation Anxiety in a New Dog

Written by Tamar Love Grande Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

You think you know all there is to know about cats? Uh-huh, sure, sure. OK, let’s see how “cat smart” you are. Here are 20 cat trivia questions. A few are pretty easy, but many are really tough. If you can get ALL of these right (a purrr-fect score), then you’re some sort of cat genius!

The answers appear below.

20 Cat Trivia Questions

1. A cat has how many whiskers, on average?

A) 8
B) 12
C) 16
C) 24

2. Do cats have fewer teeth than dogs, or more?

A) Fewer
B) More
C) Same

3. People have about 650 skeletal muscles. How many do cats have?

A) 500
B) 650
C) 800

4. Which brain is the cat’s brain most similar to?

A) Dog’s
B) Human’s

5. Outdoor-only cats live, on average, about:

A) 3-5 years
B) 7-10 years
C) 12-15 years

6. A term for a group of cats is:

A) caggle
B) covey
C) clutch
D) clowder

7. A term for a group of kittens is:

A) kaggle
B) kindle
C) nook
D) kaboodle

8. True or False: A cat, standing in a still position, can jump up to six times its own length.

9. True or False: “Tabby” is the name of a cat breed.

10. All of the following are the names of cat breeds, EXCEPT:

A) Balinese
B) Beauceron
C) Birman
D) Burmilla

11. The thick hair around the face of some cats (such as Persians) is called:

A) Mane
B) Ruff
C) Pelt
D) Shock

12. True or False: Just like female cats, male cats have five or six pairs of teats.

13. True or False: Like dogs, cats sniff one another’s butts.

14. How much of their waking hours do cats spend grooming themselves?

A) 11%
B) 33%
C) 66%

15. What’s it called when a cat rubs the side of its head on you or on furniture?

A) Beaning
B) Bunting
C) Brocking
D) Tagging

16. A cat named Towser was an expert mouser. (True story!) How many mice did this famous cat reportedly catch in her lifetime?

A) 899
B) 8,899
C) 18,899
D) 28,899

17. Cats can’t taste this:

A) Sour
B) Sweet
C) Bitter
D) Salt

18. What’s the total number of claws that most house cats have?

A) 16
B) 18
C) 20
D) None of the above

19. Cats stay pregnant for about how long?

A) 2 months
B) 4 months
C) 9 months

20. Which of the following statements about body language is FALSE:

A) A cat’s tail held high means “I’m happy.”
B) A twitching tail means “I’m getting irritated.”
C) A thumping tail means “I’m totally frustrated!”
D) A tail tucked underneath the body means “I’m hungry.”

Answers

1. C, 24 whiskers
2. A, cats have 30 teeth, but dogs have 42
3. A, 500 skeletal muscles
4. B, more similar to a human’s brain than a dog’s brain
5. A, 3-5 years (contrast this with around 15 years for indoor cats!)
6. D, clowder
7. B, kindle
8. True
9. False
10. B, Beauceron is the name of a dog breed, not a cat breed
11. B, ruff
12. True
13. True
14. B, 33%
15. B, bunting
16. D, 28,899 (wow!)
17. B, sweet
18. B, 18 (five in the front paws and four in the rear = 18)
19. A, just over 2 months
20. D is false. A tail tucked underneath the body actually means “I am scared.”

Please share this quiz! “Like” this on Facebook, tweet it, or share it with your Google Plus circles.

Source: 20 Cat Trivia Questions – How Much Do You Know?

Written by Pets Adviser Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

This "Little Captain" shows off his un-docked tail and playful nature.

My first experience with a schipperke was with a friend’s ancient dog, who, despite her 14 years, loved to dance around on her back feet and perform tricks.

Although I was a Cat Person at the time and still thought dogs were gross, this little girl stole my heart. Schipperkes will never replace dachshunds as my absolute favorite breed, but they’re definitely in the top 10.

Have you considered adopting one of these adorable rascals? Perhaps this schipperke breed profile will help you make up your mind!

Breed

Schipperke, aka schip, Little Skipper, Little Captain

Group

Non-Sporting

Physical Description

Standing 10-13 inches at the shoulder and weighing about 12-18 pounds, schipperkes have long legs and cobby bodies, which means they’re short and square. Their triangular-shaped ears, set high and alert on their heads, give them a fox-like appearance.

Schipperkes have thick, rough double coats, usually black, that stand out from their bodies. On their torsos, their coats are medium-length, but the hair on their faces, ears and legs is short. The breed standard color is black, but schips can also have tan or fawn-colored hair.

Although some schipperkes are born without tails, traditionally their tails have been docked at birth, a controversial practice that is slowly being phased out in breed clubs around the world — except for the American Kennel Club.

Origin

The schipperke, first bred in Belgium, is the descendent of the Leauvenaar, a 40-pound black sheepdog that guarded livestock, hunted game and protected his home and family.

This new breed was given the name “schipperke,” which was derived from schip, the Flemish word for “boat,” because they were originally bred as companions for river travelers, namely tradespeople.

A chap named Renssens, who captained a canal boat in Flanders, is credited with creating the schipperke by breeding down Leauvenaars until they were a consistently small size and well-adapted for life on the water, not only as companions, but also as ratters and watchdogs. Their tendency to stand at the front of the boat, alertly scanning the horizon, as well as their usual position as the captain’s dog, earned them the nicknames “Little Captain” and “Little Skipper.”

By the late 1800s, schipperkes had become favored pets with Belgian families. After first appearing at a dog show in 1880, schipperkes became popular worldwide.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hdieCmv5FF4

Purpose

Although there isn’t as much call these days for riverboat ratters, schipperkes have adjusted well to their modern lives as companion animals. Given their roots, they are still excellent boating dogs, who truly enjoy spending time on the water, but they’re also driven competitors in canine sports like agility, field trials and obedience.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kShrSQGUGu4

Temperament

Smart, alert, curious, energetic and confident, schipperkes are joyful little pets that do exceptionally well in family environments. Schipperkes bond deeply with their owners, even very small children, whom they love and protect.

Most vermin-hunting dogs don’t do well with feline family members, whom they often perceive as prey, but schipperkes are surprisingly good with cats! Their history with guarding their boats has evolved into highly developed watchdog skills, making the schip one of the best alert dogs, and they are tenacious about guarding their homes and families.

Unfortunately, the schipperke can often have a Napoleon complex — the tendency to overcompensate for his small size by acting like a big jerk. Left untrained or unchecked, schips often decide they are the pack leaders, responsible for guarding the family from potential dangers (mail carrier, leaf blowing across the street), yelling at visitors and other dogs and generally bossing around the entire household.

In addition to their too-big personalities, schipperkes are known as persistent, obnoxious barkers, often howling at predators (mail carrier, leaf blowing across the street). They can also become aloof if they aren’t properly socialized and are often difficult to housetrain.

For these reasons, it’s essential to make sure schips are thoroughly trained in obedience and consistently reminded that they are subordinate to humans. Fortunately, they take well to training and seem to genuinely enjoy learning new things.

Exercise Needs

“Energetic” doesn’t begin to describe this active breed. Schipperkes require daily workouts, preferably long, brisk walks or runs, or they become neurotic and hyper. They love to run off-lead, so trips to the dog park work well to burn off their extra energy, as would intense play sessions with other dogs. Schips also love to play, especially fetch, and can spend endless hours chasing their toys.

Grooming Requirements

Because schipperkes were bred for a life on the water, their coats are dense and water-repellant, and therefore require little grooming other than a weekly brushing. Schips completely shed their undercoats two or three times a year, and it’s quite an event! Grooming them during this time can be a labor-intensive, time-consuming task, but you’ll only need to do it a couple of times a year.

Otherwise, schipperkes are low-maintenance with respect to grooming, requiring little more than regular nail-trimming.

Common Health Problems

Schipperkes tend to be incredibly active, healthy dogs, even as they age — and they can live to be 18 years old! All breeds have genetic health issues, but in the case of schipperkes, the most common health issues are relatively minor, such as:

• Tracheal collapse: If you have a small dog, you’ve probably heard the coughing sound I call “hawking up a hairball”; some people refer to it as reverse sneezing. Whatever you call it, tracheal collapse isn’t serious.
• Overbites and underbites: An uneven bite is a cosmetic issue that seldom affects the health of a dog.
• Cryptorchidism: So what if your male dog has three testicles? The only impact this condition has on the dog’s health is that it renders him sterile.

More serious problems can include cataracts, progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) and other vision problems, epilepsy, heart murmur, diabetes and luxating patellas, all of which are problems common in many breeds.

Unfortunately, there is one health problem particular to schipperkes (and humans!): Mucopolysaccharidosis type IIIB (MPS IIIB). According to Dr. Matthew Ellinwood, who has been researching MPS IIIB:

“The disease MPS IIIB, also known as Sanfilippo syndrome type IIIB, is an inherited disease classified as a lysosomal storage disease (LSD). Lysosomes are “bags” within cells of the body, filled with special enzymes which disassemble molecules in an orderly manner. If one of the enzymes is missing, due to mutations in the gene for that enzyme, the disassembly stops, and undegraded molecules accumulate in lysosomes (hence the term LSD), and the cells become sick or die, which leads to disease.”

Translated into English, MPS IIIB is a lethal, progressive genetic disease that causes mental deterioration, including balance and cognition problems. Because there is currently no cure, euthanasia is usually the best option.

Is the Schipperke the Right Dog for You?

Schipperkes are that rare breed of dog that is good with kids, cats, adults and other dogs, so they are perfect with family life. As an owner, you will need to provide plenty of exercise for your schip or his barking and naughty behavior will drive you nuts. An outstanding solution would be adopting a second dog who loves to play, wrestle and chase.

Schipperkes are appropriate for almost any environment, including apartments. However, their barking and high activity level might make them unpopular with the neighbors. If you live in an apartment, crate training is the best way to keep your schip in line.

Regardless of your living situation, you need to be a firm, consistent owner committed to enforcing obedience and good manners with positive reinforcement training. If you’re not up to the task, consider a more biddable dog, like a pomeranian.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ojY1rQR_6Qk

Photos: serk/Flickr

Source: Breed Profile: Schipperke

Written by Tamar Love Grande Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

Learn how to remove cactus needles from dogs, and when to leave this task to the professionals.

Different types of cacti can grow all over the world, and certain areas of North America have high concentrations of the plant. Unfortunately for us, our four-legged friends can get the spines (needles) of cacti stuck in their eyes, mouth, feet, ears and numerous other places on the body.

The first thought on the sight of a needle-covered dog will have you running for the tweezers, but there are some spines you should leave for the professionals.

What You Need

A cactus spine should be treated as a puncture wound. The spines enter the skin and create an opening for bacteria. Before you start the removal process (if doing it yourself), gather some antibiotic ointment along with your removal tool of choice. Some use tweezers, while others who have hunting dogs prefer hemostats.

We also recommend that you start with a coarse comb to remove loose spines. Removed spines can cause blood to spurt out of the entry point; a styptic stick and gauze can be handy in case you run into this problem.

Removing Cactus Needles From Your Dog

Your pet’s first reaction may be to try and remove the spines with her mouth or by kicking her legs. The spines can become dislodged from the animal and stick into your skin, so keeping your pet calm and steady is important.

If you have someone who can help you, it will be easier to remove the spines. Your pet might also salivate or foam at the mouth if spines have penetrated that area.

Use the comb to remove any loose spines from the dog’s coat. The individual spines that remain should be removed using tweezers or forceps by pulling in the direction of the fur growth. Some spines may have been stuck in the skin at a sharp angle that does not follow the direction of the fur, and you will want to remove these as gently as possible without twisting or forcing the spine in the direction of the fur.

As you remove the spines, clean off any blood and stop bleeding at the entry point. If the dog has spines in different areas of the body, apply antibiotic ointment before moving on to another section. You may find it hard to pull out the spines or have a difficult time keeping your pet steady or calm. Depending on where a spine is stuck, loosening or removing the spine may cause excessive or continuous bleeding. In either instance, be prepared to visit your veterinarian’s office or local animal emergency room for further care and removal.

Ouch! Cactus attack!

In the Eye

If your dog was unfortunate enough to get a cactus spine in her eye, it’s best to leave the removal to the professionals. Not all eye punctures can require surgery, but visible spines and micro spines can be present in the eye and require extreme care upon removal.

Some spines may not need to be removed, but this should be determined by your veterinarian. Cactus spines are usually removed from dogs under general anesthesia; reconstructive surgery or grafts might also be necessary.

After removal and/or treatment, check the entry points for infection and apply antibiotic ointment as needed. If the area becomes swollen, discharges and does not improve, make an appointment to see your vet. Let’s hope your dog will learn to avoid a cactus in the future and keep you from being on pins and needles!

Photos: Zabowski (top), Jared/Flickr

Source: Ouch! Removing Cactus Needles From Your Dog

Written by Kristine Lacoste Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

When kittens attack!

It is a rare thing for cats to actually attack their owners, unless of course you own a lion, tiger, leopard, cougar or mountain lion. If you have recently acquired a feral feline, you could have attacking issues because the cat has grown up in the wild without the knowledge that humans can be friends.

I will assume for the sake of this article that the precious cat in your life is a typical domestic cat that truly isn’t in some kind of weird attack mode when the sun goes down. There are ways to get your cat to be calmer during the hours that you need to sleep.

Why Does My Cat Attack Me at Night?

Cats are natural hunters, and they are really good at their jobs. The slightest movement can send them into a frenzy of desire to chase and take down whatever it is that they think is prey. On top of this, cats usually hunt at night.

When you are lying down, all comfy and cozy in your bed, and you move your foot or leg into another position, your cat will see the movement but won’t see that it is actually you under the blanket. Most people play with cats by moving an object covered by a blanket just to watch them pounce on it. That might have been cute and funny when the pet was a kitten, but not as an adult with large teeth and sharp claws! It’s best not to start and encourage this behavior when the cat is a kitten, but if you created this behavior, there are ways to teach an adult cat to stop.

Spray First, Talk Later

It is a well-known fact that cats hate water. If you have ever attempted to bathe a cat, you know what I’m talking about… Fur is flying all over, the claws are flailing and the teeth are chomping on whatever they can catch.

One of the fastest ways to stop a cat from exhibiting unwanted behavior is with water. No, you don’t need to give the cat a swirly in the toilet bowl, so stay where you are and keep reading.

Fill a new spray bottle with water. You can pick them up at any dollar store, so please don’t reuse a bottle that once held any kind of cleaner — it has the potential to harm your cat, so spend the buck and get a new spray bottle.

When you go to bed at night, put the spray bottle on your night table. If the cat tries to attack you at night while you are sleeping, grab your trusty spray bottle and spritz him in the face. Follow the spray with a firm no or loud clapping. Don’t give the cat any other attention after the reprimand. Every time the cat repeats the attacking behavior, spray and tell him no. Eventually, this should cause the cat to think twice about attacking you under your blankets.

The Unbreakable Feline

Believe it or not, there are kitties who really couldn’t care less if you spray them with water. These tend to be harder to break from their nighttime predator habits. The easiest way is to lock the cat out of your bedroom, but of course that leaves the rest of the house open for dastardly feline antics.

Tightly roll up a ball of yarn so that it will be difficult for the cat to unravel it. Insert a pet treat in the middle, or soak the inner end of the yarn with tuna oil. This will maintain the kitty’s attention and eliminate your nocturnal battle wounds.

If these tricks don’t work, your cat might be suffering from… um, vampirism, maybe? In this case, I’d suggest that you wear a necklace made of garlic and sleep with the light on! Just remember that your friends at Pets Adviser are pulling for you, and we wish you the very best.

Additional Resources

• Mary Burch, certified animal behaviorist: Why does my (mostly) sweet cat attack me?
• Vicky Halls, cat behavior expert: Our 1-year-old cat comes into our bedroom every night…
• Dr. Justine Lee, DMV, DACVECC: Why does my cat attack my ankles?

Source: What the-?! Why Does My Cat Attack Me at Night?

Written by Roseann Lahey Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

Miller enjoys my three-volume set of Shakespeare.

One of the saddest stories I’ve ever heard is about a Dalmatian who chewed open a brand-new bottle of Advil, ate most of the pills and subsequently died. Although my first response was compassion for my friend who had lost her dog, a part of me wanted to know why the dog had access to medicine in the first place. If the owner had made it impossible for the dog to get to the bathroom cabinets, he’d be alive today.

Another story, still sad but a little amusing, involved a friend’s golden retriever eating a stack of money she’d left on her nightstand while she was taking a shower. She was leaving on a trip the next day — hence the pile of cash — and her dog had eaten half her traveling money. Had she kept the door closed, as this incident caused her to do in the future, she’d have been flush for her trip.

Keeping your dog safe — and your possessions intact — is quite simple to do, provided you know a few tricks and follow these easy steps. Here’s how to dog-proof your home.

1. Baby-Proof the House

Years ago, the rescue I worked with launched a massive fundraising campaign for a dachshund who had chewed through electrical cords and burned out all the skin and flesh of her upper palate. She eventually recovered — after wracking up a ten-thousand dollar vet bill. Had the owners ensured the cords were unreachable, the doxie wouldn’t have injured herself.

Dogs may not be human children, but the same devices we use to keep kids safe also work well for keeping our dogs out of trouble. If you have small children, you’re probably already familiar with the plethora of baby-proofing items that are easy to install and cost relatively little cash. If you don’t have kids, take a trip to your local Target or baby store and check out your options:

• Baby gates that limit access to rooms you use frequently
• Covers for electrical outlets
• Power-strip covers
• Safety locks for your kitchen and bathroom cabinets
• A containment system for your electrical cords

Although not made for babies, a dog-food vault is also essential if you have large or crafty dogs. However, even the most dog-proof lid won’t keep your pup out of the food unless you shut it tight! Before we got smart, our dachshunds foiled our two-foot high vault by knocking it over and working the lid off. Now we turn it until our arms hurt. No more bloated bellies!

2. Buy a Trashcan Your Dog Can’t Open

Most dogs love to root around in the trash for delicious treats, like pizza crust, fast-food wrappers and used tissues. Unfortunately, this behavior has two unpleasant consequences: garbage strewn on the floor and/or a sick dog who vomits, leaves piles of diarrhea in unexpected places or develops an expensive intestinal blockage your vet will charge $$$$ to remove.

The most effective solution is a pull-out trashcan, but they can be horrifically expensive, and you’ll need enough under-counter space to install one. But if you have a large, extremely food-motivated dog, one who is obsessed with digging through the trash (Labrador retriever, anyone?), a pull-out can might be your best option.

For smaller dogs or those who aren’t as interested in plowing through garbage, a sturdy metal trashcan with a step-on lid is the way to go. Although these nifty cans can run you $150 or more, discount stores, like Target, Marshall’s or TJ Max, often carry them at much lower prices. I scored mine for $40 from Home Goods!

3. Close the Doors

I have dachshunds, which means my house almost always contains at least one cleverly hidden pile of poop or lake of pee. After a few months of these fun discoveries, we got smart and limited their access to our bedrooms and bathroom. Although we still find our dachshunds’ special presents, at least we don’t collapse into a wet bed at the end of the night.

If your dog pees on your bed, shreds your linens or otherwise behaves badly in the bathroom or bedrooms, keep the doors to those rooms closed when you aren’t in them. Voila! The same is true for other rooms you don’t spend a lot of your waking hours in, keep those doors closed, too. Basic rule: If you aren’t in a room that has a door, your dogs aren’t in there, either.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90Gaf68_ph0

4. Banish Clutter

The old saw “a place for everything, and everything in its place” is especially apt for homes with puppies and adult dogs who like to chew things. Those brand-new $500 designer glasses? Mangled. Your beloved Prada shoes? Eaten. The spray bottle of Tilex? Let’s not go there…

Dogs love to chew; if they destroy your possessions, it’s your fault for allowing your them access to your stuff. Get smart, and put your things away when you aren’t using them, especially any kind of medication or cleaning products. If you’ve been meaning to organize your home, now is the time. Check out one of the bazillion websites that teach you how to manage clutter, and make sure your family knows where household items belong.

5. Crate the Beast

Left alone in an empty house, dogs can create a great deal of mischief. I’ve heard horror stories about destroyed sofas, shredded door jambs, half-eaten dog beds and clawed-up carpet. My dog, Miller, even eats books!

The single-best (and easiest!) way to keep your pup out of trouble is to crate train him and keep him confined when you aren’t home. Crate training can be a royal pain in the butt if your dog puts his paw down at spending time in his kennel, but the effort is worth having an intact home and a couch you can sit on.

Although this list of tips might seem daunting (and expensive!), dog-proofing your home is definitely worth the time and expense. Take things one step at a time, and make sure you follow through with behaviors that will keep your dog safe. All the safety devices in the world won’t work if you don’t use them!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5W058M4Qdyc

Photos: Tamar Love Grande (top), ndmiller/Flickr

Source: 5 Easy Ways to Dog-Proof Your Home

Written by Tamar Love Grande Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

Your dog certainly has more things to worry about than a few white flakes on his coat. He would probably much rather focus on digging up that bone he buried a few days ago or chasing the neighbor’s cat away from his territory. But those flakes may have you wondering, “Why does my dog have dandruff?”

Most dandruff is little more than dead skin cells that are being shed, and dogs tend to get dandruff just as frequently as humans do. During the winter months when the air is dry and humidity is low, these snowy-looking flakes seem to get worse.

Having dandruff is not a health issue with dogs unless you can’t get rid of the flakes no matter how many remedies you try — or if you notice any scabbing, crusting or itching constantly. Those are reasons enough to get your veterinarian’s opinion on the problem. In some cases, skin mites or light infections can cause dandruff.

According to veterinarian Alice M. Jeromin, DVM, dry skin in dogs may well be the result of a handful of medical problems. In veterinary medicine, as in human medicine, Dr. Jeromin says, dermatology is a specialty area where an in-office exam is essential.

Ernest Ward, DVM, says that with canine dandruff (also known as seborrhea), the sebaceous glands make too much sebum, an oily fluid that moisturizes your dog’s skin and hair. Normally affected by this skin disorder are the face, back and flanks, causing itchy, scaly and flaky red skin.

Signs of dandruff are those white flakes on Fido’s bedding or other places where he lies.

Possible Medical Problems

The causes of dandruff are not always easy to determine, but Dr. Ward says underlying medical problems that may be related are:

• Hormones out of whack, as in the case of thyroid disease or Cushing’s disease
• Allergic reactions
• Fungal infections (yeast infections)
• Not enough Omega-3 fatty acids in the diet, or the dog is very overweight
• Other medical problems that mean your pet can’t adequately groom itself
• Parasites such as fleas, ticks and mange mites.

Let’s talk more about that last one, the mange mites. Cheyletiella mange, often referred to as “walking dandruff,” usually affects puppies. According to the book Vet on Call, the “walking dandruff” name came about because the mite population on your poor pup grows to such large numbers that this makes skin flakes on the dog appear to actually be moving. Ick!

To determine if your pet is dealing with Cheyletiella mange and not dandruff, look directly at his skin with a magnifying glass. If the skin is moving, he is probably dealing with “walking dandruff.” Although rare, this type of mange usually affects dogs in pet shops or large breeding operations. The mites are most often seen on the back, accompanied by a lot of dandruff. If you suspect your dog has this type of mange, take him to a veterinarian for diagnosis and treatment. The condition is quite contagious, so any other pets you have should also be treated; you will also want to wash or throw away any bedding that has been used by your dog.

For more on mange, see our article Identification and Treatment of Dog Mange.

Treatment

While your veterinarian may answer your question, “Why does my dog have dandruff?” there is no specific treatment for this problem. If no underlying cause is found, the veterinarian will suggest some forms of treatment to ease or eliminate the problem. Among the suggestions will likely be:

• Omega-3 supplements (or add a teaspoon of sunflower/safflower oil per bowl of food)
• Dog dandruff shampoo
• A good moisturizer designed for dogs, with ingredients like lanolin, lactic acid and glycerin
• Retinoid skin cream
• Antibiotics, if your dog has a secondary bacterial infection

Bathing your dog at least twice a week will surely help in controlling the dandruff, washing it away before it can build up. Use an antiseborrheic (dandruff) shampoo made for dogs — that means no Head & Shoulders for Fido! Always follow up with a good pet moisturizing rinse to keep the skin well lubricated, otherwise the two weekly baths will dry the skin out, erasing your progress. Pet stores have moisturizing sprays to give added protection between baths.

Photo: Reynir Hauksson/Flickr

Additional Resources

In the video below, Dr. Fiona Caldwell gives a few quick tips:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WctedIFj8Q

Source: Why Does My Dog Have Dandruff?

Written by Gayle Hickman Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

Many of my clients have a multiple-cat household. Feline behavior problems are much more common in households with more than one cat. We don’t understand cat behavior as well as dog behavior, but knowing some basics about cat culture can help the cat owner diffuse or solve many problems.

Now, I doubt I could ever run the risk of becoming a cat hoarder, a very serious problem indeed. But if my husband was out of the picture (on a long safari, exploring indigenous peoples of the world, etc.), I think my cat-o-meter could get a little out of whack. He keeps me in control.

Some people just aren’t responsible cat owners:

Have to move? Get rid of the cat.

The kid sneezes twice? Get rid of the cat.

The cat develops a medical problem? Euthanize the cat.

The cat peed on the bathroom rug! MURDER THE CAT.

If the owner doesn’t want to work on the problems with me, I am often asked to re-home the cat. Not infrequently, re-home has meant my-home. I have many years of experience in a multi-cat household, with the group of cats continually in flux. Cats don’t necessarily adapt well to change, so an unstable cat population can cause stress.

Cat Culture

In all fairness, many cat owners are faced with real behavior problems and they try to do everything to solve them. They love their cats. Giving them up is not even on the radar. These owners usually have more than one cat. Although cats are not solitary animals, they have often been described as asocial. In any event, they like their social situations fairly fixed, and humans come in and ruffle the fur.

When humans aren’t involved, cats tend to live in matrilineal groups, meaning they live with related females (mothers, daughters, aunts) and immature males. Obviously, pet cats are spayed or neutered, removing the huge problem of rammy, mature tomcats, spraying, fighting, and all that jazz. In feral situations, the group becomes stable. Cats who do not fit into the group have the natural ability to leave or are forced out. This is not possible in your ranch house. Cats who do not find your house and your other cats to their liking are under stress. They may fight; they may hide; frequently, they stop using the litter box.

Aversion to That Litter Box

Many cat owners can put up with some intercat aggression, sharpening claws on the oriental rugs, jumping on the counters, vomiting in front of dinner guests, but the tearing the hair out moment usually comes when? When Fredo begins peeing on the carpet. Or the couch. Or the bed linens, the laundry, the bathroom rug. Next to the litter box, along side of the litter box, anywhere but IN the litter box. If Fredo doesn’t get his act together, he’s going to wind up like his namesake in The Godfather. (I hope you’ve all seen the movie.)

These clients with urine stinking up their houses have read up on the internet. They’ve become scrupulous about cleaning the box. They’ve spent a lot of money on products to clean the couch, the rugs, you name it. But they may not be getting to the root of the problem. What made Fredo stop using the box in the first place?

Usually, there is a reason that makes a lot of sense to Fredo, and we have to find it. Naturally, you must rule out medical reasons first. Your veterinarian can help you. Simple tests and a very clear history often delineate between a medical and a behavioral problem.

If you have a single cat that has been litter box trained all its life, and it begins urinating outside the box, this may often be a medical problem. But cats in multiple-cat households that begin urinating normal amounts in strange places are often under stress. Fredo, for example, may not be happy with his new fur friend, Mr. Michael. Often, these are not friends with benefits in Fredo’s opinion.

Personal Space

You may not see your cats actively fighting, but that does not mean there is not a victim and an aggressor. Cats need personal space. For some cats, a peaceful chair or a nice perch is sufficient. Others might need an entire room to themselves. If they have not been raised together in a familiar group, some cats might never accept one another. To keep things peaceful, they must feel that they have a space to call their own.

Your job is to be sensitive to tension and deflect it.

1. Don’t let a young, playful cat wreak havoc on a more sedate, older member of the group. Youngster needs play time and Matron needs her rest.
2. Make sure all cats have access to their favorite areas. This may require segregating cats for parts of the day.
3. Break up fights before they start. Calmly interrupt cats who are staring at each other or threatening one another. Be careful.
4. Synthetic pheromone (Feliway) is recommended by behaviorists to reduce tension.

When you brought in the new cat, Mr. Michael, did you see that he began lurking four feet away on the top step, staring at Fredo every time he walked near his litter box? Fredo is fearful. Walking near and using that litter box is like taking a fatal boat ride with Mr. Michael. (I really hope you’ve seen the movie!) Or maybe Fredo just feels like Mr. M is standing too close to him. He can’t find another box. He finds a corner of the couch, where he can put his little fanny deep into the open pocket, relax, far away from where Mr. Michael is staring at him, and he pees.

You know that close talker at your office? The person who stands one inch away from you with his coffee breath telling you something you already know? Don’t you want to scratch his eyes out, or at least bat at them? Maybe you just don’t go to the water fountain right now because you want to avoid Mr. Coffeebreath entirely. Well, you didn’t realize that this is exactly what Fredo is doing.

Golden Rules for Multi-Cat Households

1. Separate areas, separate litter boxes, separate food stations. Multi-cat households should have one food bowl per cat, and at least one more water bowl and litter box than cats (1 per cat + 1 rule).

2. A place for my stuff! Cats need their own space, maybe at a preferred height, maybe covered, maybe soft, maybe sunny, maybe warm! Get into your cat’s head.

Fredo used to love to sit by the fire, but now Mr. Michael has taken up residence on the hearth rug. So can you get another wood stove installed this weekend? Probably not, so work on where to give Fredo a place of his own!

3. Finding a new home for one of the cats. As a general rule, I like to find the aggressor a single-cat situation when all else fails.

4. Drugs. Never start here. Discuss this with your veterinarian in a behavior consult. Drugs are an aid, not a fix! If you don’t have adequate room or litter boxes, anti-anxiety drug therapy alone is wrong.

But My Litter Box Is Immaculate!

OK, Mrs. Tidy, but maybe it’s not the right kind of litter. Or not in the right place. Or Mr. Michael is in the next room and Fredo knows he’s waiting for him to approach that box.

Mrs. Tidy, let me ask you a question. Do you like soft toilet seats or old-school? Long oval shape or old-school? Quilted toilet paper or single sheet? Do you hate that cold bathroom off the kitchen with no windows? Why not just run upstairs where the sun shines in on the clean, white, old-school toilet seat with the plush toilet paper and the pale blue walls? And the best part? Then you have privacy away from those people eating breakfast in the kitchen! You can pee at peace. This is all Fredo wants, too!

I have litter boxes on every floor of my house and water bowls in MANY locations. Cats like different bowls of fresh water, cups, running water, shower droplets. They may like ceramic, plastic, glass. Maybe they like your finest china. Give it to them! You never use it anyway.

If your cat has a litter box aversion, play around with clumping vs. clay litters and covered and open boxes. Placement is a huge key. Why does my one indoor cat prefer to have his litter box in my son’s dusty old bedroom? I don’t know, but that’s fine. Nick is gone and married, so Bedbug reclaimed his room. I gave Bedbug a choice of three different places for his litter, and he made the choice by using only one box! In this case, I eliminated the other two boxes.

If you have a 400-square-foot apartment, multiple litter box placement is indeed a problem. Cat poop in your closet has its drawbacks. Opening your Murphy Bed on that cat box is never pleasant. Tiny living spaces often don’t lend themselves well to multiple cats.

I recently had a client with a very small home and two cats. All was fine until the cats were about 2 years old. They both began urinating outside the box. We did the medical work-up and found nothing wrong. I went through the “cats + 1” rule of litter boxes, and she refused.

“I have a small house, and there’s going to be one box only in the basement, yadda, yadda…”

After she brought in several more urine samples, all normal, and complained about the cost, I expressed my strong belief (once again) that more litter boxes would save her aggravation, time and the cost of new floors. Three litter boxes solved the problem.

Remember the children’s book Millions of Cats? The old man brought home millions and billions and trillions of cats. But they began to quarrel, and only one homely little cat hid while the trillions of cats bit and scratched and clawed one another to death. So the old man and woman adopted the little ugly cat who hid. And we wonder why we had nightmares as children. Or why some of us became veterinarians!

Source: Dr. Deb’s Advice for Keeping the Peace in a Multi-Cat Household

Written by Dr. Debora Lichtenberg, VMD Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.