Pets Adviser » Pet Health

Eww… My Cat Always Has Eye Boogers!

Gayle Hickman — Mon, 14 May 2012 12:08:00 +0000

Why does my cat always have eye boogers?

Letting my mind wander back to my childhood years, I clearly remember waking up many a morning with white mucus stuck in the corners of my eyes. Sometimes it actually made my eyelids seem glued together. A warm, wet washcloth rubbed over my eyes usually took care of the problem, and off to school I would go.

Other kids had the same problem, and though it never led to any major health problems for any of us, I have often wondered what caused the mucus to build up overnight. Nowadays, I rarely hear anything on this topic, and my children were never bothered by that yucky discharge in their eyes.

Morning “Eye Boogers”

According to Michael Dym, VMD, many pet owners want to know why their pets have crust or “eye boogers” (oh, what a lovely name for it) in the corners of their eyes in the mornings. With the most common cause being airborne allergens, just as with humans, most cases concerning pets do not point to a significant problem. (Related: When Your Cat Has Allergies)

Most of the time, medical treatment is not required and the owners are advised to wipe away the morning eye mucus with a wet cloth or use eye drops.

Worrisome Discharge

Atypical eye discharge is, however, a sign of a problem. In some cases, mucus could be caused by a simple cold — or in a worse-case scenario, a more serious illness could be the culprit.

The type of discharge helps clarify the cause:

Clear discharge with no redness or pain points toward a problem in the tear duct department.
Clear discharge with redness in the eye could indicate conjunctivitis (commonly known as pink eye), such as from a viral infection.
Puslike discharge (green or yellow), sticky and stinky, along with a red eye, could indicate conjunctivitis, such as from a bacterial infection.
Discharge accompanied by pain in the eye could be a sign of cornea or inner eye problems. Signs that your cat is in pain may include constantly pawing at her eye, excessive tearing or sensitivity to light.
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What to Do If Your Dog Is Bitten By a Snake

C.D. Watson — Mon, 23 Apr 2012 12:05:00 +0000

By C.D. Watson, Pets Adviser

What to do if my dog is bitten by a snake?

Trees are budding, flowers are blooming, birds are singing and even the bees are out in full force. It is spring! Humans and animals alike feel the optimism and energy of the season, and outdoor activities are essential. Time out of doors should be fun-filled and healthy.

Late last spring I let my dogs out for one last potty break before bed. It was about dusk, and I called them back as soon as I felt they had had enough time to take care of business. Normally they race back to the door, ready for their reward. This particular night they didn’t come when called. I walked to the deck rail and called again. I saw both dogs lying at the foot of the stairs.

I knew immediately something was wrong. I walked down the steps, and the bigger of the two dogs stood. My male Lagotto, Luke, didn’t get up. He whimpered and raised his head. I looked him over carefully, probing his back and legs, and I saw that his right paw was swollen. When I touched the foot, he yelped. I didn’t see a laceration, so I assumed something had bitten him.

I carried Luke into the house and put him on the tile floor. Fortunately my husband, an emergency physician, was home. We saw two small, bloody puncture wounds on his leg and realized Luke had been bitten by a snake! The swelling was rapidly moving up his leg, and from every appearance he was in shock.

Since Lagottos are still rare in the United States, I was compelled to read everything I could find about the breed before Luke came to our family. One of the many articles I found happened to be about the high incidence of snake bites with Lagottos. In Italy Lagottos are trained to hunt truffles. The occupational hazard of all that time in the forests, digging through leaves and brush, puts the dogs in frequent contact with snakes. That article inspired me to conduct more research into the threat of snake bites and canines.

A Snake Primer

One of the first rules of first aid of any type is: Be Prepared! The best form of preparation is to understand the potential for emergency and be ready to react. In the case of a snake bite (to human or pet) you should know the variety of venomous snakes in the area where you live or visit.

Four species of venomous snakes are indigenous to the United States:

Copperheads
Rattlesnakes
Cotton mouths/water moccasins
Coral snakes

Most snake bites occur in the Southwestern and Southeastern United States, and not all snakebites contain venom.

Animal medical clinics report more than 150,000 emergency treatments to dogs and cats for snakebites annually. Dogs suffer a much greater incidence of snakebites than other domestic animals. The most common venomous snakes in the United States are crotalidae — copperheads, cotton mouth/water moccasins and rattlesnakes — also referred to as pit vipers. These snakes prefer to live in tall grass, along ponds, streams and marshes, and in rock and wood piles. They are somewhat nocturnal and they love cool, dark dens.

Crotalidae have broad triangular heads with elliptical pupils. Their curved fangs are prominent, and they are marked by a deep “pit” between the eyes and the nostrils — hence the name pit viper. Experts estimate the bite of the pit viper accounts for around 99 percent of snakebites to dogs. Very painful but rarely fatal, the toxicity of the bite of a pit viper depends on the type, age and size of the snake; the amount of venom injected; and the age, size and relative health of the animal bitten.

It is estimated that 90 percent of snake bites occur between the months of April and October. Bites are more frequent on the dog’s legs or head — particularly the muzzle.

Rattlesnake Warning Signs

Know what to look for if you suspect your pet is bitten by a crotalidae snake:

Sudden yelp of pain, especially if your dog is playing in a potentially infested area
Rapid swelling on the legs or face
Apparent, intense pain
Fang/puncture marks
Oozing blood at puncture
Drooling
Rapid breathing
Dilated pupils
Pale gums
Weakness
Collapse

Treating a Rattlesnake Bite on a Dog

Stay calm. If possible, identify the kind of snake responsible for the bite. Restrict your dog’s activity — this will reduce the effect of the venom. Seek immediate veterinary treatment. Your vet can determine the amount of toxicity injected by the reaction of your dog and/or blood tests.

If a veterinarian is not immediately available:

Administer diphenhydramine, an antihistamine such as Benadryl, to reduce the allergic reaction from the snake bite.
If the bite was to the throat, temporary airway support may be necessary.
Medication for pain should be administered.
Medication for infection will be necessary.

Seek professional medical treatment as soon as possible. Recovery will depend on response time and treatment. Most dogs survive crotalidae bites with few if any complications.

DO NOT use a tourniquet. Restricting the blood flow may cause serious tissue damage.
DO NOT cut an “X” and attempt to suck the venom out. Human saliva contains bacteria that can create a greater infection.

Remember, your dog is suffering and may be in shock. Even the most docile dog can bite out of fear and pain. Protect yourself and your pet from additional harm.

Elapidae – Coral Snakes

Elapidae represents the other species of venomous snakes in North America. Coral snakes, cobras, kraits, mambas and hamadryads are all members of the elapidae family. Of the elapidae, only coral snakes are indigenous to the United States. They are predominant to the Southeast, particularly Texas and Florida.

Coral snakes have very distinct red, yellow and black color patterns. Like all elapine snakes, they have short fangs and “chew” venom into their victims. The venom is neurotoxic and paralyzes the respiratory system. Bites from elapine snakes are very dangerous and often fatal.

As with crotalidae snakes, diagnosis is often difficult to determine unless the attack is witnessed. Knowledge of the area and the potential for coral snake infestation is crucial.

A coral snake bit my dog!

Coral Snake Warning Signs

Drooling
Vomiting
Diarrhea
Weakness
Disorientation
Difficulty breathing
Paralysis

Elapidae snake bites do not typically produce a great deal of swelling, and it can take 10 to 18 hours for more serious symptoms to appear.

Treating a Coral Snake Bite on a Dog

Seek medical assistance immediately.
Restrict your animal’s movement, and keep him calm and quiet.
DO NOT apply a tourniquet.
DO NOT attempt to suck the venom out.
Hospitalization may be required.

Recovery is dependent on the availability of immediate medical intervention and treatment.

Fortunately, snake bites from elapidae are relatively rare, affecting less than 1 percent of the reported cases of bites to dogs. Coral snakes in particular have small heads and are slower to open their jaws wide enough to envenom a dog. Their distinct color is similar to that of the common, nonpoisonous king snake. If you are close enough and brave enough to make the determination, remember:

“Red on yellow, kill a fellow — red on black, venom lack.”

Luke survived his close encounter with the snake. We did not verify the type of viper, but it was most likely a copperhead given the location and time of day. We couldn’t get Luke to the veterinarian for several hours, but thanks to my research and my husband’s training we knew the appropriate steps to take to minimize the trauma. Our vet told us she would have followed the same procedures we took. She prescribed an antibiotic to reduce infection at the puncture site. Luke was back in rare form in a couple of days.

I wish I could say Luke learned a valuable lesson about snakes. I doubt he even knew what bit him! Regardless, dogs do not remember sufficiently to make efforts to avoid snakes after a bite. Their natural curiosity leads them into the very mouth of danger. It is up to owners to remain diligent to protect their pets.

So, please do this:

Educate yourself about the presence of poisonous and nonpoisonous snakes in the vicinity.
Avoid areas where snake infestation is likely.
Leash your dogs when hiking.
Enroll your dog in snake avoidance classes.
Know what emergency measures to take in the event of a snakebite.

With a little planning, precaution and practice, you and your dog can enjoy a wonderful season outdoors.

Additional Resources

WebVet: Snake bite risks to dogs
National Institutes of Health: Coral snake bites
Dawn Ruben, DVM: Snake bites from pit vipers
Ryan Folse, trainer: Rattlesnake aversion training for dogs

Top photo: cygnus921/Flickr

Also From Pets Adviser

Can Dog Lice Live on Humans?

Gayle Hickman — Thu, 19 Apr 2012 16:45:00 +0000

By Gayle Hickman, Pets Adviser

Just as head lice pass from human to human, dog lice are most often transmitted where dogs are in close quarters with other dogs. None of us relish the idea of seeing lice on our pets, just as we freak out if we find these little parasites on our children’s heads.

Pet owners often want to know two things about this subject:

Can dog lice live on humans?
And can human lice live on dogs?

All About Lice

First, let’s talk about what lice are exactly: They are small, wingless insects with six legs. Each leg has one or two claws. The adult lays nits (sticky white eggs) that fixate to the hair of the host (dog, human, etc.). Hatching from the eggs, the nymphs go through three molts and become adults. This cycle takes between 14 and 21 days.

There are two types of lice: (1) sucking lice, which suck the blood from their hosts, causing itching, hair loss and skin inflammation. Anemia can also be caused by a large infestation of these creepy-crawlers. These tiny pests are spread by direct contact with other animals or by infected brushes, combs or bedding; (2) biting lice, which, while bringing similar symptoms, do not cause anemia.

Along with the itching and scratching created by dog lice, sufferers also tend to carry tapeworms. It is important to see a veterinarian if you suspect your dog has lice. The veterinarian can recommend a medicated shampoo or spray-on treatment for the lice problem. Once the lice become history, treatment can be given for tapeworms, if present, since they, too, carry diseases.

Treatment

Adult lice are generally easy to kill using flea and tick preventives. But newly hatched insects aren’t quite so willing to leave. Insecticides may provide some aid in your defense efforts. However, natural plant extracts like pyrethrins and rotenone will not help.

You cannot easily get rid of nits with insecticides or by bathing. Those little eggs will hatch into new lice within a week or so! Any treatments will need to be repeated several times to get rid of them completely.

“Nit-picking” can be done by using a comb made especially for that purpose. (You can also do this by hand — but that is a much more nerve-wracking, time-consuming process.) Shaving your dog will eliminate the nits, since they are attached to the base of the hair shaft, but don’t waste your time clipping — leaving any hair on your pet will leave the nits on him too.

While treating your dog for lice, keep him away from other dogs. You may still give him that walk that he looks forward to — just don’t let him mix with other dogs until his treatments have reached that ultimate goal: lice-free. Also, any grooming tools, along with his bedding, should be cleaned. (Hot, soapy water usually does the trick.)

Can Dog Lice Live on Humans? (and Vice Versa?)

Now, let’s return to the questions asked above. Veterinarian Janet Tobiassen Crosby, DVM, and the ASPCA are in agreement, and their answer is: No.

There is a different species of louse for each species of animal. While dog lice are uncommon, Linognathus piliferus is the species most often found. The entire lifespan of a louse is lived on one host. Dog lice will not live on humans; nor will human lice live on dogs. Dog lice mate on the dog and attach their nits to the hairs of the dog. They hang on for life, for within hours they will die if not on the body of a host.

So, rest assured, if your child comes home from school or a neighbor’s house with head lice, he didn’t get them from a dog — he most likely got them from some other kid. Dog lice do not want your blood!

In the short video below, Dr. Caldwell from Pets Best Insurance discusses what to do about a dog with lice:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYOY2xyjdBg

Additional Resources

Janet Tobiassen Crosby, DVM: Can my pet catch head lice from my kids?
ASPCA Complete Guide to Dogs: Lice information

Photo: donnierayjones/Flickr

Also From Pets Adviser

Signs of Dental Disease in Dogs, and What Can Be Done About It

Cate Burnette, RVT — Thu, 12 Apr 2012 14:06:02 +0000

By Cate Burnette, RVT, Pets Adviser

Unlike you, your dog doesn’t brush his teeth two or three times a day to make sure his smile is sparkling white and his breath is fresh. Overseeing our pets’ dental health is something that we, as pet parents, need to do in order to ensure our animal companions a long and healthy life.

The bacterium that accumulates in your dog’s mouth and that causes periodontal disease is the same kind that can travel throughout his body and affect his kidneys, lungs, and heart. If you know what to look for when it comes to your dog’s teeth and mouth, you can be better prepared to deal with any problems that may arise.

Signs and Symptoms of Periodontal Disease

Detecting dental disease in your dog can be as simple as opening his mouth, looking inside at his teeth and gums, and smelling his breath. I have listed some of the things you should look for below:

Bad Breath: The bacteria from decaying food that causes gingivitis and infection in your dog’s mouth also results in abnormally bad breath. We don’t expect doggy breath to be “minty fresh,” but any type of sour, acrid odor is indicative of some kind of disease process in your pet’s mouth or other internal organs. (Yes, cats can have bad breath too.)

Inflamed Gums: Also called “gingivitis,” the disease that causes your dog’s red, inflamed and sometimes bleeding gums is a result of the bacteria that linger in his mouth from food left in his teeth. This bacterium typically gathers under the gum line around the roots of the teeth and can cause an infection that leads to tooth loss, bone degeneration and, in severe cases, possible major organ disease.

Plaque and Calculus: Dental plaque is composed of the food particles and saliva that mix together to form a sticky film on your dog’s teeth. If the plaque is left on the teeth, it will harden into a thick, bone-like formation called calculus (or tartar), which can cover the entire tooth and hide an underlying infection.

Swollen Jaw: Often, when infection gathers around the tooth root and creates an abscess, swelling of the jaw occurs that is visible to the naked eye. There will be a lump either on the lower jaw close to your pup’s neck or on the upper jaw just under his eye socket. Sometimes, if the abscess becomes large enough to burst, it will break through the skin covering it and you’ll see pus seeping onto your dog’s fur from a small hole in the lump.

Trouble Chewing: You may notice that your dog is having trouble chewing his food, or that he’s stopped chewing altogether and is just gulping it down. If you look inside his mouth, you may also see loose or missing teeth where the tooth roots have detached from the bone because of disease. Rotting, infected teeth and gums can be extremely painful, and loose teeth can cause your pet to stop using his mouth to break up his food.

Nasal Discharge and Sneezing: When your dog’s gums become infected on his maxilla (upper jaw), the roots of the teeth can abscess, creating pockets of pus and infection that can reach up into his sinus cavities. When the sinuses become infected, your pup can develop a runny nose and begin sneezing.

In this quick video, veterinarian Glenn Brigden, DVM, provides an overview of periodontal disease. Watch this first, then we’ll discuss your options upon diagnosis:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n5a1q_lYk9Q

How to Take Care of Your Dog’s Dental Disease

Once your pet shows any of the symptoms discussed above, scheduling him for a veterinary dental cleaning is the only sure way to effect a cure for his periodontal disease.

Your veterinarian may request a blood screen to detect any signs of systemic organ problems before placing your dog under anesthesia for the dental cleaning, particularly if your dog is a senior or has some other diagnosed illness.

After the dog is anesthetized, a trained veterinary technician will take X-rays of the teeth to determine if there are any pockets or abscesses around the tooth roots, and to look for any bone deterioration.

The vet tech scrapes the teeth free of any plaque and cleans them with a high-powered, ultra-sonic water pick. The water pick vibrates at such a high rate of speed that any hard calculus formed on the teeth is easily broken up and removed. After the initial cleaning, the technician scrapes and probes underneath the gum line looking for any deep pockets of infection.

If any of the teeth need to be pulled because they are broken or the roots are no longer holding the teeth in place, the veterinarian steps in to perform this part of the procedure. The vet may also inject any needed antibiotics into the gum cavity, and suture the hole closed if it is too large to heal on its own.

Once your dog’s teeth are polished and his mouth is rinsed with an antibiotic wash, he is allowed to awaken from the anesthesia, and you should be able to take him home the same day. Typically, the veterinarian prescribes antibiotics for you to administer to your dog to clear up any remaining bacterial infection.

This video, from Kimberly Crest Veterinary Hospital in Davenport, Iowa, shows the cleaning process from beginning to end:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M5PBWBqAJ0U

What Else Can You Do for a Dog With Periodontal Disease?

Here are some more tips:

A new dental vaccine called the porphyromonas vaccine has been developed to destroy the types of bacteria that cause periodontal disease in dogs. These particular strains of bacteria are linked to canine lung, kidney and heart disease and have been known to effect bone loss in a dog’s jaws. They have also been shown to be a major cause of aspiration pneumonia in humans. The vaccine is given every six to 12 months as a subcutaneous injection (under the skin) and only after a veterinary cleaning. Ask your veterinarian about the vaccine at your next regular visit.
Home brushing should be your next step in helping to prevent dental disease in your dog. You can buy a doggy toothbrush and toothpaste from your veterinarian or a pet store. Brush the teeth daily, using downward strokes on the outside of the teeth only. You won’t need to brush the inner portions of the mouth because your dog’s tongue and saliva clean those areas. Note: Please DO NOT use human toothpaste to clean a dog’s teeth. Human products contain chemicals that can be harmful to your pet’s digestive tract.
Dental chew toys and treats can also be purchased from your vet, the pet store or online, and they are manufactured to help clean your dog’s teeth as he chews on them. We all know dogs like to chew on things, so finding an appropriate toy or treat that also removes the plaque on his teeth while he chews can be part of the solution to his dental issues. Just make sure to give him a treat or toy that best fits his size, because some toys meant for larger breeds can cause tooth and jaw fractures in smaller pets.
Switching to kibble, or a hard food, can be beneficial for your pup’s dental health as it, too, scrapes his teeth clean as he chews during the day. You’ll want to make sure to get the kibble in a size to fit his mouth, and one that has all the proper nutrients for his health.

The American Veterinary Medical Association estimates that 85 percent of dogs over the age of 3 have some sort of periodontal disease. Keeping your dog’s teeth and gums clean and infection-free can mean a difference in years when it comes to your pet’s life.

Finally — just to drive the point home one more time — in the video below, veterinarian Dean Sim talks about the tell-tale signs of dental problems:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPt_oLTTi-0

Additional Resources

Debra A. Primovic, BSN, DVM: New vaccine to prevent dental disease
WebVet: Caring for your pet’s dental health
Cheryl Yuill, DVM, MSc, CVH: Dog and cat teeth cleaning

Photo: Army Medicine/Flickr

Also From Pets Adviser

Easter Baskets Can Kill Your Pets

Tamar Love Grande — Fri, 06 Apr 2012 16:19:16 +0000

By Tamar Love Grande, Pets Adviser

Some of the treats in Easter baskets can kill pets.

Children love Easter, especially the basket full of treats the Easter Bunny leaves them.

Unfortunately, many of the items parents fill the baskets with can cause your pets serious problems, even death. This year, make sure your kid’s Easter fun is also pet-safe.

Chocolate

Chocolate is on the list of no-nos for all pets. Although dogs have the highest risk of chocolate toxicity, cats can also experience serious symptoms after ingesting chocolate.

As Janet Tobiassen Crosby, DVM, reports, “Chocolate is made from the fruit (beans) of the cacao tree. Theobromine, a component of chocolate, is a toxic compound in chocolate. Caffeine is also present in chocolate and a toxic component, but in much smaller amounts than Theobromine. Both Theobromine and Caffeine are members of a drug class called Methylxanines.”

Chocolate toxicity can cause damage to the central nervous system, as well as increased blood pressure, nausea, vomiting and even death. If your Easter basket contains any kind of chocolate, be sure your pets can’t get to it, and educate your kids about what could happen if your dog eats a chocolate bunny or egg.

Plastic Easter Grass

The ubiquitous Easter basket filler isn’t toxic, but it can cause serious problems if your dog or cat eats it. Anything long and stringy, including Christmas tinsel, can become tangled in your pet’s stomach and bowels, which can result in internal damage that requires immediate surgery.

The problem with plastic grass is that cats love to play with it and often nibble on it or eat it. Also, it gets everywhere, much like confetti. Consider stuffing your child’s Easter basket with crumpled tissue paper instead.

The Basket Itself

Cats and dogs love to chew on sticks and wood, and many Easter baskets are treated with toxic chemicals, like paint and gloss spray, which can cause stomach upset. Select a festive box, plastic basket or an untreated wood basket.

Lilies

All members of the lily family are poisonous to pets. According to Dr. Justine Lee, DVM, DACVECC, “More dangerous, potentially fatal lilies are true lilies, and these include tiger, day, Asiatic, Easter and Japanese show lilies — all of which are highly toxic to cats! Even small ingestions (such as two to three petals or leaves) can result in severe acute kidney failure.”

If you have a dog, you can set the flowers in a place dogs can’t reach, such as a high countertop. Cats, however, can jump, so there’s really no safe place in your home for lilies.

Also keep in mind that giving your child a pet bunny or chick is a bad idea, too. They may love their Easter pets for a few months or weeks, but chances are good those animals will wind up in an animal shelter when your children tire of them.

Bunny dog photos, from left: K9 Playgroups, TW Collins, mphoenix/Flickr

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How to Administer Dog Medicine Like a Pro

Cate Burnette, RVT — Mon, 02 Apr 2012 11:57:44 +0000

By Cate Burnette, RVT, Pets Adviser

Learn how to administer dog medicine. It's not an impossible task!

Getting your dog to take her medicine can be like putting toothpaste back into the tube… It needs to be done, but can seem an impossible task at the time. If your dog is anything like one of mine, you’ll have to drag her out from under the bed to medicate her.

AND… If you’re anything at all like my husband, making your pooch the least bit uncomfortable sends you into reams of guilty feelings that can cause you to quit the job way too easily.

There are ways to give your pet her medicine without traumatizing either one of you.

How to Administer Pills

One of the most common forms of medicine you’ll get from your veterinarian comes in pill form. Whether it’s an antibiotic that you must give for only 10 to 14 days, or a thyroid hormonal supplement that your dog requires a couple of times a day for life, getting those pills down your dog’s throat is the ultimate goal.

For dogs that don’t have weight or diabetic issues, the easiest way to give a pill is to pop it into a small chunk of hot dog or cheese. You just need to have a big enough bite of food to cover the pill. Push the pill all the way into the middle of the food so it can’t be seen, and offer it to her as a treat.
Or if your dog is a fan of peanut butter, stick the pill into the middle of a spoon of peanut butter and let her lick it up. With her favorite treat hiding the pill, your pet is more likely to swallow the medicine without even thinking about it.

For those animals that can smell one tiny pill in a plateful of hot dogs and eat around it or spit it out, you’re going to need another plan. Here are two more methods:

Pet piller

PILLER: You can buy a “piller” at your vet’s office or at some pet supply stores. The piller looks like a long, plastic tube with a plunger on one end and a rubber cylinder on the other, and is designed to hold different sizes of pills.

Once you place the medicine in the holding end of the piller and draw back the plunger, open your dog’s mouth just wide enough to get the pill all the way over her tongue to the back of her throat. When the pill is in the right spot, push down on the plunger, quickly pull out the piller — making sure you’ve left the medication behind — and gently hold her muzzle shut. Point her nose to the ceiling and rub her throat to encourage her to swallow the pill.

OR JUST SHOVE IT DOWN: Gently pry her mouth open with one hand, then, with your other hand, push the pill to the back of her throat, making sure you set it over the base of the tongue. Hold her mouth closed, gently push her nose to the ceiling, and rub her throat until you feel her swallow.

If your pup is reluctant to swallow the pill, you can try gently blowing into her nose. The air flowing backward into her lungs causes an automatic swallow reflex that will get the medicine down her throat and into her stomach.

Liquid Medicines

You’ll probably find that giving your dog liquid medicines is an easier proposition than pilling her.

Once the proper dosage of liquid is drawn up into the medicine dropper or syringe, gently slip the end of the applicator into the side of your pup’s mouth in the pouch between her cheek and gums.
Point her nose to the ceiling and slowly expel the medicine into her mouth, allowing her time to take a breath between each swallow.
Keep giving her the liquid until she has swallowed the prescribed dose.

Photo courtesy WSU College of Veterinary Medicine

Ear Medications

If your pet has any kind of ear disease caused by bacteria, yeast or even ear mites, you’re going to have to treat her ears at home with either a medicated ointment or a liquid to clear up the infection.

Your dog’s ear consists of the earflap (or pinna) and the outer, middle and inner ear canals. For minor infections, you’re going to be treating only the pinna and outer ear canal.

Hold your dog’s ear open and gently pull up from the base of the ear to straighten the L-shaped ear canal.
Place the tip of the applicator bottle or tube into the outer part of her canal and squeeze the prescribed number of drops into the ear. By stretching her ear away from her head, you allow the medicine to be deposited over all the little valleys of the ear canal.
Gently massage the base of the ear to distribute the medication evenly. I stress the word gently because her ears might be particularly sensitive and painful from the infection. Make sure that the underside of the earflap also receives enough of the medicine to cover it.

Eye Meds

Giving your dog eye medications can seem particularly scary, especially if your pet is a squirmy little thing, so you may want to ask someone to help you hold her head while you do so.

Gently open her eyelids with the fingers of your non-dominant hand. If you are right-handed, that would be your left hand.
Hold the open tube or bottle of medication in the other hand with the tip of the applicator approximately ½ inch above her eye orb, making sure not to touch the eye. Drip the prescribed number of drops or ½ inch of gel down onto the eye and allow the eyelids to close.
Gently massage the eyelids to evenly distribute the medication over the entire eye.

Subcutaneous (“Under the Skin”) Injections

If your dog is diabetic or needs regular allergy injections, you need to learn how to give her a shot of medicine subcutaneously — that is, just under the first layer of skin.

Draw up the proper amount of medicine in your syringe and replace the cap so that you don’t stick yourself with the needle.
Place your dog in your lap or ask someone to hold her for you. Once she is relaxed and comfortable, pull up a loose flap of skin between her shoulder blades so that it forms a “V.”
Remove the cap from the needle and syringe and quickly thrust the needle into the middle area of the “V,” making sure it doesn’t come through the other side of the skin. Most diabetic and allergy syringes have very small, thin needles, so if you push the needle in quickly, all your dog will feel is a tiny pinch.
Pull back on the syringe’s plunger and look for any blood filling the tube. If you see blood, you have accidentally hit a small capillary and you’ll need to reposition the syringe. If you don’t see any blood, gently push down on the plunger until all the medicine is dispensed.

Giving your dog medicine takes a little time and patience, but with the proper techniques the process can be fairly easily and stress-free for both of you.

Additional Resources

Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine has some great ideas (including pictures) to show you how to administer the dog medicines discussed above:

Also From Pets Adviser

Why Does My Dog Have a Dry Nose? Here Are 6 Possible Reasons

Roseann Lahey — Fri, 30 Mar 2012 14:21:00 +0000

By Roseann Lahey, Pets Adviser

Why does my dog have a dry nose?

Pet owners can oftentimes be excessively fussy about the health and well-being of their dogs.

Many people worry that their dog’s nose is too wet, or too dry, or too warm, or too cool. Let’s face it: We worry when something is different about our pet. The one thing that never seems to change in our lives is our faithful furry friend.

There are times when you will need to worry about your doggy’s dry nose — and times when you don’t need to be concerned about it.

1. Dryness Upon Waking

A lot of people worry that their dog’s nasal membrane is dry when the pet wakes up from a nap. But this is normal. When a canine sleeps, he stops licking at his nose. This stops the constant flow of moisture to the nasal area. Within 10 minutes after your dog wakes up, that nose should be right back to its usual wet self.

2. Havoc Over Heating

During the colder months, dogs (like cats) love to sleep close to heating vents and ducts. They find themselves comfy spots with the warm air blowing on their faces. However, this can cause your puppy’s nose to become dry. Too much time in front of the heater can also make the nose cracked.

Just watch to be sure that the snout goes back to its moist state. If it doesn’t, a dab of petroleum jelly will have that nose twitching and sniffing as usual.

3. Ailing From Allergies

Canines that have issues with allergies tend to have very dry noses. Humans experience the same kind of problems. Your veterinarian can help you gain control of the allergies. There are quite a few prescription medications that can relieve the dryness. You can also use a bit of petroleum jelly to keep the dog nose moist and prevent cracking. Barbara Royal, DVM, suggests that rubbing on shea butter or coconut oil might work too. I have also heard that good ol’ Chapstick can suffice, or even a little olive oil.

4. Protect Your Pooch From Plastic

One of the biggest causes of dry nose in dogs is a problem with plastic, such as in food and water bowls. Nearly half of canines have some form of allergic reaction to plastic.

Most pet owners who are dealing with this problem simply eliminate plastics from the pup’s environment. Your dog should eat out of stainless steel or ceramic bowls; these eliminate potential allergy problems and are a cinch to clean and keep sterile. You can opt for toys that are made of rubber as opposed to plastic, which will help.

5. Stop Sunburn With Sunblock

All too many dog owners have no idea that their canine companions can get sunburn on their noses. Think about it; if you were out in the sun a lot, you would be burned up too. You need to protect your pet from UV damage as well as potentially getting skin cancer.

Sunblock is the key to keeping your little doggy’s nose moist and sniffling as it should. It is essential that you use a sunblock designed for pets or for human infants. These will be nontoxic. You’ll no longer have to worry about the dog being uncomfortable with a dried out, sunburned nose.

6. Water, Water, Water

One simple reason that a dog’s nose is dry is dehydration. When a dog doesn’t have enough fluids taken into his body, he becomes dehydrated. This could be a real issue as the dry nose can crack but the kidneys and other body systems could become compromised, shut down and cause the pup to go into shock. It is of the utmost importance that every pet have a fresh supply of clean water available at all times.

Chronic dry nose, or a nose that has scabbing or sores, should be brought to your veterinarian’s attention.

Additional Resources

Janet Tobiassen Crosby, DVM: Protect your pets from getting sunburned
Cary Nulton, DVM: The myth of a dog’s nose as a warning that he’s sick
Dog Owner’s Home Veterinary Handbook: All about dog noses

Photo: MacKinnon Photography/Flickr

Also From Pets Adviser

The Best Way to Treat Fleas: An Expert Guide From Pets Adviser

Kristine Lacoste — Thu, 22 Mar 2012 17:47:52 +0000

By Kristine Lacoste, Pets Adviser

Find the best way to treat fleas.

During a home renovation weekend, my husband left to buy lumber, and imagine my surprise when he returned with a dog. We already had two dogs and a cat, and we really didn’t have room for another pet. He explained that when he returned to his truck to put the lumber in the bed, he heard a yelp. Someone actually threw this puppy in the back of his truck in a parking lot in almost 100-degree summer heat. So, I couldn’t fault him for bringing him home, and the puppy did have an abundance of cuteness — and fleas.

Fleas are annoying little pests that bite and survive off blood. They can cause anemia and other serious health concerns for animals if left untreated, and they can multiply quickly. They can affect indoor animals too; fleas can jump far and be tracked in by pets, humans and even dirt. It can be hard to figure out a plan of attack standing in the aisle of the pet store staring at the sheer number of products lining the walls. While some flea treatments may be necessary, there are additional ways you can help curb these unwanted visitors.

I Have Fleas. Now What?

You’ll want to start by bathing your dog. Depending on the size of your dog, you may need to use the bathtub instead of the sink. Get the neck area wet and soapy before working on the body. This way the rest of the fleas should end up getting washed off the body or killed by the soap. Avoid getting soap near the eyes, nose and mouth. Fleas that are found on the head or facial area should be easy to spot, and these can be dropped into the water also.

Petroleum jelly can be dabbed on fleas as you spot them to stop them from hopping away. Dry your dog thoroughly and check around the bathing area for any stray fleas.

Now that your dog is clean, you should wash all bedding (and sheets if your dog sleeps with you). A thorough vacuuming or steam-cleaning should be next, and don’t forget to check the chairs and sofas. If you have a severe infestation, you may opt to use a more aggressive means of removing them from your home. Foggers require you and the animals to evacuate the house, and there are time limits before you can re-enter on the directions.

If you consult a pest control company, make sure they know you have pets and ask about the risks and side effects of the product they intend to use.

Don’t Forget Areas Outside the Home

Check and treat your outdoor areas. Warm, humid and moist environments are the flea’s favorite playground, and your dog is the transportation. Nix the free rides by clearing dead or dying foliage and standing water, and keep entrances to the home clear and dry. If you use a commercial lawn treatment, read the directions carefully for harmful ingredients and the amount to apply. Some professionals recommend using nematodes on your outdoor areas. These microscopic worms love eating insects and their eggs, and when the supply of food runs out they biodegrade. They can be hard to find in local pet or garden stores but are available online.

Does your dog ride in the car with you or has the pet been in one of your vehicles recently? Head there next and vacuum your vehicles too. If your dog visits the neighbors or a day care, or if a dog walker or sitter comes by regularly, let them know you are treating for fleas so they can check and treat if needed.

Help Prevent Future Infestations

To help with prevention, here is a three-point checklist:

Vacuum the home at least once per week.
Check the outdoor areas.
Check your pet daily.

What About Flea Medications?

Oral Preventives: If you choose to use a preventive flea medication, there are several to choose from (such as Sentinel, Promeris and Comfortis). Before you buy or apply any flea preventive, make sure the medication is specifically produced for dogs and the weight limits apply to your dog. Overdosing can result in serious consequences, and this is a step to never skip.

Flea Collars: There are a few chemicals used in pet products that are insecticides, and some can be dangerous to them and your family. The most common chemical to avoid is propoxur, a chemical normally found in flea collars. This chemical has been blamed for pet deaths and disabilities, causing cancer and even prompted a new law in California. Further legislation is ongoing, but the products are still being sold.

Sprays and Powders: Sprays are better for short coats, and powders are better for rubbing into longer coats.

Topical Preventives: If you choose to use a topical preventive (such as Advantage, Advantix, Frontline Plus, Frontline Top Spot, Revolution and Proticall for Dogs), always check the label and the directions for dosage and weight limits. Make sure it says it is made for dogs before you open the package. Some treatments will have a waiting period before your pet can get wet or go swimming, so check to see how long Snickerdoodle may have to wait before plunging into the nearby lake.

Other Notes on Flea Control

If you have a new pet or are starting a new treatment, consult your veterinarian. Please bear in mind that any treatment you give your dog can affect other household pets, especially cats. If you have a multi-pet household, always check with your vet and read directions carefully. Do you have a kitten with fleas? Read this article first.

If you decide to use aromatherapy to control fleas, always consult your vet and a qualified aromatherapist. Some essential oils can be deadly for dogs and especially so for cats.

You can also check your pet’s food. Look at the ingredients and see what’s in there. Quality dog food should not be full of fillers, and a healthier diet equals a healthier dog. Fleas tend to choose sick animals over healthy ones, so this could be an added advantage.

I’m sure you’ve read it, but we’ll keep repeating it:

Check the box for the animal type and weight the product is manufactured for.

This way you can avoid serious complications or death. The ASPCA listed insecticides as the number-two pet toxin for 2011, according to the 165,900-plus calls the group received at its poison control center. Double-check the package to make sure your chosen treatment is safe, is not expired and is designed specifically for your animal, and confirm any weight limits before applying the product to your pet.

Photo: fa11ing_away/Flickr

Also From Pets Adviser

Labradoodle Health Issues: ‘Designer’ Dog, but Same Old Potential Problems

Gayle Hickman — Tue, 20 Mar 2012 12:25:00 +0000

By Gayle Hickman, Pets Adviser

This adorable chocolate Labradoodle puppy is just 3 hours old.

Dog lovers around the world are being drawn to the shaggy-coated Labradoodle, the most popular in America among newer “designer hybrids” such as the goldendoodle, Yorkiepoo, cockapoo, schnoodle and puggle.

Emerging in Austrailia in the 1970s, the Labradoodle is a cross-breed between a Labrador retriever and a standard or miniature poodle. Most Labradoodles, complementing their playful name, exhibit a friendly nature. Of course there is also the high-energy factor, common in both Labs and poodles. Doodles are smart and sociable, and they generally get along well with other dogs and children. The life expectancy of these wavy-haired pooches with lovable expressions is about 13 to 15 years.

Labradoodle Health Issues

Not surprisingly, because they share a combined history of the Lab and poodle, Labradoodles have shown health concerns stemming from both breeds. A “hybrid” is not always healthier than a purebred dog, says Allan Reznik, editor at large for Dog Fancy and Dog World magazines and a recognized dog breed expert.

Reznik says that many careful breeders now use genetic testing to reduce the risks of inherited diseases. If you are considering buying a puppy, make sure both parents were health tested.

For example, both parents of a Labradoodle puppy should have had their eyes checked in the past year, and the breeder should be able to produce current testing certificates upon your request.

The important lesson is that being a “hybrid” doesn’t make the Labradoodle some sort of super illness-free pet. They do have health problems. Says one breeder in Australia:

“I’ve heard from, and spoken with numerous people with labradoodles that have major health issues, and it would be extremely unfortunate for potential owners to be led to believe that they are ensured a healthy dog simply because this is a cross breed.”

Trouble Areas From the Lab Side

Labs are prone to joint problems, including hip dysplasia and elbow dysplasia. Either of these diseases can bring about arthritic issues.

Eye problems are also common in Labs. Progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) or cataracts have a potential to lead to total blindness. Retinal dysplasia is another possibility.

Trouble Areas From the Poodle Side

Poodles, although in general a healthy breed, have also been diagnosed with hip dysplasia and PRA.

Other health risks concerning poodles are:

Von Williebrand’s disease, a bleeding disorder that causes inadequate blood clotting, comparable to hemophilia in people. For this disease there is no cure.
Addison’s disease, a pituitary gland problem that cannot be detected before onset. Once diagnosed, however, with proper treatment the affected pet can lead a normal life.
Sebaceous adenitis (SA), a rare condition, sometimes occurs in poodles. As the oil-producing glands in the skin stop working, the result is a rank odor, dry, scaly skin and hair loss.

Allergies in Labradoodles

Labradoodles often have allergy problems. Certain allergies (such as food allergies) are becoming more commonplace in various different breeds and can be hard to diagnose. Skin problems or excessive foot-licking can be signs of an allergy. If your Doodle is diagnosed with a food allergy, your veterinarian may recommend a hypoallergenic diet.

Hold on, all you Doodle lovers — I’m not trying to sway your desire to own one of these easy-to-train dogs. Please understand that not all health problems are inherited! The best genetics the world over won’t add up to much if your dog does not receive the proper care. Please see your veterinarian for a complete physical examination after adopting a new dog.

Keeping a regular checkup schedule, providing great nutrition and keeping your pet well groomed and parasite-free can make all the difference in your Labradoodle’s life. (And, of course, showing him that he is one of the loves in your life won’t hurt, either!)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPZiz3zgTkE

Additional Resources

Family Pet Veterinary Center: Hybrid breeds — designer dogs or disaster in the making?
Australian Labradoodle Association of America: General care and health
Canine Health Blog: Health concerns present regardless in Labradoodles

Photo: Fingerz/Flickr

Also From Pets Adviser

What to Expect After Your Pet Gets Vaccinated

Kristine Lacoste — Fri, 16 Mar 2012 14:07:00 +0000

By Kristine Lacoste, Pets Adviser

Vaccination reactions can vary, and we explain what to expect after your pet gets vaccinated.

Your pet’s immune system protects it from disease and infection. Vaccines can aid in preparing the body against the invasion of specific organisms that cause disease. If you’re reading this you are most likely a pet owner and familiar with the idea that vaccines are a necessary part of human and animal life. As with any medical procedure, there is always the risk of side effects or reactions.

Vaccine Types and Scheduling

Most vaccinations are determined by your pet’s risk of coming in contact with a certain disease. This can depend on many factors, such as being an outside pet, having a multi-pet household or traveling to other countries on a frequent basis.

Which vaccinations you need and when you should get them can be determined during a consultation with your vet. By informing the vet of your pet’s exposure, you can assist in creating a vaccination schedule that works for your pet’s specific circumstances. No one schedule is perfect for every pet, and checking with your vet with ensure you design a plan effective and customized to your animal.

Are Vaccines Safe?

Every animal is different and can react in different ways to the same vaccine. The risks associated with the vaccine are far less than the risk of the disease itself. Vaccinations have saved a countless number of pets and humans from disease than they have harmed. Reactions are possible but remain uncommon.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhydMjNYVgI

How Many Trips to the Vet Do I Have to Make?

Some vaccinations occur frequently during the first year of your pet’s life. Follow-up vaccinations are most commonly performed in one to three year increments. This also depends on the animal and the vaccine. As Dr. Deb recently pointed out, a new vaccine with less chance of causing a tumor was found than an existing vaccine, but it was required as an annual booster instead of one performed every three years.

If the frequency of vet visits or cost is a factor, talk to your vet and let them know what your concerns are right away. Most veterinarians are concerned about the cost passed on to pet owners and try to suggest those vaccinations that they feel are necessary.

Possible Reactions

Vaccination reactions can range from mild to severe. There is no way to predict in advance how your pet will react to a particular vaccination, but there are symptoms you can look for to know when you should consult your vet or head in to the nearest animal hospital.

Mild reactions should appear within a few hours or days from the time of vaccination and disappear within a few days at most. These reactions might include:

Discomfort at the injection site
Minimal fever
Less desire to eat or play
Sneezing
Swelling or firmness at the injection site or in the facial area (if this persists, you should see your vet)

Serious reactions to vaccinations are very rare, but they are possible. Some severe reactions may include:

A severe change in behavior or actions within hours of the vaccination
A tumor might develop at the injection site within weeks or months after the vaccination.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=37PZSEMmgec

What Should I Do?

If you notice your pet is experiencing any of these symptoms or is acting abnormally, you should contact your veterinarian. If your pet is reacting in a way that is very different or extreme in your opinion, visit the nearest animal hospital for immediate assessment.

Do I Really Need to Go Through This?

Unfortunately diseases are possible and if your pet is at risk, it is always best to vaccinate instead of hoping your pet will not be affected. Pets affected by disease may require expensive, long-term care or euthanization. Certain diseases can also pose a risk to humans and certain laws require administration of vaccinations (such as rabies in certain areas of the United States).

Vaccinations are being improved and changed constantly, and Dr. Deb explains more about this topic and the importance of a pet wellness plan. If your pet is allowed outside, they face catching a disease from other animals or spreading a disease. Vaccinations will help reduce the frequency of diseases for pets and humans, and veterinarians try to vaccinate only those that are beneficial to your pet.

Photo: youngandwithit/Flickr

Also From Pets Adviser

Have You Established Your Kitten Vaccination Schedule?

Kristine Lacoste — Fri, 09 Mar 2012 13:02:00 +0000

By Kristine Lacoste, Pets Adviser

Have you established your kitten vaccination schedule?

When I first adopted my new kitten, my first thought was about vaccinations and vet visits. Did he have his shots? Did he need them? Was he already neutered? After verifying these facts and discussing future medical care with the shelter and the veterinarian, we figured out what was left to be done.

Do you know which vaccinations your kitten needs?

Your kitten will go through development stages and may be more susceptible to disease at different times. This also depends on what other animals might be around your kitten.

I knew the average ages that kittens need vaccinations, but I was curious if most cat owners knew what the vaccinations were. I imagine figuring out this information must be daunting for our readers. Different searches can result in over 1 million websites, so how are you supposed to know which one is which? You’re in luck, because we’ve done all the tedious work for you.

Your cat’s immune system has to fight off infections and disease. If your cat contracts something the system can’t eradicate or fight off, you could be facing long-term care or euthanization. Vaccinations can help prevent this and other diseases from affecting your cat and transmitting it to others. Below are the four most common viruses and vaccinations.

Viruses and Vaccination Recommendations

Feline Panleukopenia Virus
AKA: FPV, distemper, ataxia
Affects: All cats but primarily found in kittens
Outbreaks: Primarily in the summer (U.S.) but can happen at any time
Contagious: High
Transmission: Infected cats and their secretions or waste, fleas, contaminated objects
Symptoms: Range from none to fever, lack of appetite, vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration, inability to swallow
Prevention: Vaccination at 8 weeks (first), 12 weeks (second), 16 weeks (third if at high risk), 1 year and every 3 years thereafter. Earlier vaccination schedule can vary by two weeks depending on veterinarian recommendation.

Feline Calicivirus/Herpesvirus
AKA: FCV or FCVR
Affects: All cats
Outbreaks: Any time
Contagious: High
Transmission: Saliva, eye and nose discharge and feces of an infected cat. Virus is common in kittens, multi-cat households and shelters.
Symptoms: Joint or muscle pain or tenderness, fever, loss of appetite, difficulty breathing, sores on the tongue, lips or nose, ulcers on or around the paws, eye and nose discharge and sneezing. Onset of symptoms is sudden.
Prevention: Vaccination won’t necessarily prevent the virus but can help reduce development of disease. The vaccination is usually given with FPV at 8 weeks (first), 12 weeks (second), 16 weeks (third if at high risk), 1 year and every 3 years thereafter. Earlier vaccination schedule can vary by two weeks depending on veterinarian recommendation.

Rabies Virus
AKA: None
Affects: Any mammal can be affected but most commonly cats, cattle and dogs. This virus can be contracted by humans.
Outbreaks: Unusual but possible in countries with inadequate medical treatment or resources
Contagious: Mild to low
Transmission: Virus is usually transmitted through bites or contact with fluids or excretions from infected animals. Human transmission is extremely rare and only a small amount of cases (less than a dozen) were documented involving transplants.
Prevention: Vaccination at 12 weeks (first), 1 year (second) and every 3 years thereafter. U.S. law requires this vaccination in most areas whereas places like the United Kingdom do not offer it due to absence of the virus.

Feline Leukemia Virus
AKA: FeLV
Affects: All cats, kittens under 4 months of age are the most susceptible
Outbreaks: Unusual
Contagious: Moderate, higher with prolonged exposure to infected cats
Transmission: Saliva and nasal secretions, bites, feces and mother to kitten transmission through nursing
Symptoms: Symptoms may be delayed but include loss of appetite, weight loss, fever, anemia, pale or swollen gums, infections, persistent diarrhea, seizures or other neurological disorders, eye conditions or reproductive failure (abortion of kittens).
Prevention: Vaccination at 12 weeks (first), 16 weeks (second), 1 year and annual thereafter or as recommended by your veterinarian.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bk0kcgRNVBw

Other vaccines exist but may not be needed depending on your cat’s exposure to outside elements, other animals or your location. Some vaccinations should be done annually or every three years, so check with your vet for a recommendation and keep up with the schedule. Risk-free vaccines don’t exist and there is always a risk of reactions that range from mild to severe. The risks are much smaller than the risk of disease, and these vaccinations can prove to be invaluable for the longevity of your cat’s life.

Join me next week as I explain what to expect after getting your cat’s vaccinations and the possible side effects.

Photo: mathias-erhart/Flickr

Also From Pets Adviser

What to Expect During Kitten Development Stages

Kristine Lacoste — Tue, 06 Mar 2012 13:04:00 +0000

By Kristine Lacoste, Pets Adviser

Changes happen fast in the first 12 weeks of kitten development.

Your cat just had kittens and you’re thinking, “Now what?” Kittens go through rapid development for the first 12 weeks and will require attention, veterinarian visits, socialization and much more. Review the kitten growth chart details below to find out how the kitten development stages progress and what your responsibilities will include.

If you think your cat might be pregnant, you can check for signs that she is expecting before paying a visit to your veterinarian.

Week 1

Kittens are born with their eyes and ear canals closed. They do not have any sight or hearing and will most likely stay close to the mother. The umbilical cord will dry up and fall off within a few days. Their main activities will include eating, sleeping and passing waste. The mother cleans the kitten regularly, and this also helps stimulate the newborn.

Week 2

The eyes will begin to open, but vision will be blurry. The kitten will start to develop its sense of smell.

Week 3

The kitten may have blue eyes at birth, but this will change as the kitten ages. You may start to see this change in the third week. Hearing begins and starts to improve, and you may notice that loud or abrupt noises scare the kitten. Because of the change in hearing, the kitten’s ears will begin to stand up.

The sense of smell continues to improve, and the kitten will begin to pass waste without prodding from the mother. Teeth may start coming in this week, and purring might commence. Your kitten may also go mobile and start walking this week!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17tk_fp4eJ0

Week 4

The kitten will start working on balance and will walk more. The head is usually large compared to body size, so your kitten may be wobbly while moving around. The kitten will begin to explore the surroundings, and you may find yourself on the hunt! Kittens usually stay close to the mother, but this can vary if you get a really inquisitive (and brave) kitten.

Evaluate any harmful items, chemicals, plants or small openings to minimize risk to the kitten. The kitten will still be nursing at this time, and you can start the introduction to the litter box. Don’t be afraid if the kitten tries to eat the litter; this is normal. Accidents are expected, and there is a way to remove urine stains if needed.

Week 5

This is a great week to start socializing and bonding with your kitten. They start moving around more and will start to play. The kitten will still be nursing for a few more weeks, but you can introduce canned food made for kittens. If you haven’t already, introduce the kitten to the litter box. You will need to provide a smaller box with less litter than in the adult cat’s box.

Week 6

If you choose to give a worming treatment as a precaution, it is usually done in the sixth week. You will notice the kitten is more playful and constantly on the move, and may even start scratching different surfaces to sharpen the nails. This would be a good time to implement a scratching post to teach the kitten where this behavior is allowed.

Week 7

Vet trip! Vaccinations are typically started in the seventh week. The kitten will be more active and playful, and you should see an improvement in coordination. This week is also a good point to introduce the kitten to grooming. Use a brush on the kitten, give it a bath (make sure not to get soap in the eyes, ears or nose, and dry thoroughly) and start handling the paws regularly.

If the kitten gets used to its paws being handled, this will make nail clipping much easier in the future. I started this with my kitten, and he didn’t mind his paws being handled. Something about seeing that clipper just annoys him though, so I usually trim his nails when he is very tired or just woken from a nap. You may have better luck with your kitten, so try to hold the paws regularly while gently pressing to extend the nails.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T2GJDEo4JcA

Week 8

No major changes happen this week. The kitten will continue to be active and social with other kittens or the mother. Continue practicing grooming and getting the kitten adjusted to its paws being handled.

Week 9

The weaning process should be finished and the kitten eating provided food regularly. Play time and human interaction should be high this week.

Week 10

The nails should be long enough (and probably sharp enough) by now to start trimming. If you administered worming treatment, this is the week for the second application.

Week 11

Vet trip! The second set of shots are needed this week. The kitten increases its playing and socializing time and may even roughhouse with fellow siblings.

Week 12

This week usually involves another vet appointment for a rabies shot (if applicable; some countries do not administer this due to absence of the disease).

Your kitten should continue to grow in size and weight each week, but contact your veterinarian if you notice a lack in either area. Make plans to spay or neuter your kitten around the six-month mark. Exact weeks vary for worming treatments, so check with your vet for a recommendation. You can also inquire about microchipping.

If you notice fleas on your kitten, don’t rush to treat them with chemicals. Review our instructions for flea removal for kittens. Heartworm medications can be a personal choice. Discuss your options during one of your vet visits and determine if treatment is desired. Your vet can also review different types of heartworm treatments with you.

Always supervise your kitten around other pets and people, and plan to cover wires and small access areas (like the attic) to ensure your kitten won’t be harmed or stuck in a poorly ventilated area. I remember that when I was a child, my family was replacing the walls in the main family room, and an area behind the fireplace was exposed. The cat climbed behind there so far she couldn’t be seen. Later that day, the Sheetrock went up, and the wall starting meowing shortly thereafter! Cats can and will try to squeeze into tiny spaces, so making sure you know where your cat is at all times never hurts.

Photo: Dr DAD/Flickr

Also From Pets Adviser

Buy Pet Meds Without a Prescription?

C.D. Watson — Mon, 05 Mar 2012 13:42:38 +0000

By C.D. Watson, Pets Adviser

Buy pet meds without a prescription at your own risk.

My new puppy went for her “good health” check with the veterinarian today. By the time the visit was finished, I had racked up a bill for a couple hundred dollars — most of it in pet medications. She wasn’t even “sick”!

Considering the issue of rising health-care costs for humans and animals — especially the escalating prices of medicine — it is no wonder the lure of self-diagnosis is standard practice for most people. It is explains why buying online at “cheaper” prices is so alluring.

Finding any product at a reduced price is just smart consumer economics. But is cheaper better, or is it dangerous? What are the risks and benefits if you buy pet meds without a prescription? I hope this article helps explain things.

Buy Pet Meds Without a Prescription?

By now you’ve probably already seen the bold-faced claims. For example, one online pet pharmacy, boasting that its services are “As Seen on NBC,” tries to reel in unsuspecting visitors with these alluring statements:

“Tired of your Vet controlling where you can buy your pet medications cheaper? Wouldn’t it be easier to buy your pet, animal, veterinary and livestock supplies and medications no prescription required? No Vet needed and save 70% off at the same time.”

Quite a few online pharmacies dispense pet meds, and they’ll often even offer free shipping, but buyer beware — the medicine may not arrive as it was advertised. The FDA, in fact, is extremely worried about the “dangerous practice” of pharmacies making fraudulent claims and selling unapproved or expired drugs. The agency cites particular worry over NSAIDs and heartworm medications, which can be dangerous or life-threatening without proper medical guidance.

Understand this: Prescriptions are not “magic formulas.”

If your pet requires medication, it is always best to have the appropriate drug and dosage prescribed by a veterinarian.

Be Safe: Look for the VIPPS Seal

Look for the Vet-VIPPS seal.

When you are ready to purchase, make sure you are getting the correct medication by using a reputable pharmacy, especially if you order online.

Legal prescription medication is strictly regulated for your protection. The National Association of Boards of Pharmacy (NABP) monitors the compliance of state and federal regulations. NABP reports that as many as 99 percent of online distributors of medications do not operate within the conformity of FDA-sanctioned controls. NABP provides a Veterinary-Verified Internet Pharmacy Practice Sites (Vet-VIPPS) seal of approval for web businesses operating within guidelines.

Check any online pharmacy for the VIPPS certification before you order.

Good examples include 1-800-PetMeds and Doctors Foster and Smith. According to Dr. Race Foster, although some outfits “merely fill and ship orders,” his own pharmacy realizes “that behind every prescription is a special companion animal who deserves the best.” Meanwhile, 1-800-PetMeds says that it will not allow you to buy pet meds without a prescrition: You “must have an authorization before they are dispensed.”

Benefits of Buying Pet Meds Online

Here are some benefits to buying from reputable pharmacies:

Easy and convenient — particularly if your pet is on a maintenance drug. You can have the prescription sent right to your door.
Eliminates embarrassment, perhaps more in the case of personal use than pet use.
Provides easy online access to pharmacists to answer questions about medication.

For certain flea control products such as Frontline Plus, K9 Advantix, Advantage or Bio Spot, prescriptions are not likely required.

Beware of Online Pharmacies That Do These Things

All the advantages of online ordering are compelling, and with good judgment it is safe. But do NOT use an online pharmacy for any medication if:

Prescriptions are offered without a medical exam.
Prices are dramatically lower than the competition.
Drugs are from an unknown origin or unknown quality.
Prescriptions are sold without an order from a licensed medical professional — it’s against the law.
Meds are sold that are not FDA-approved.
Contact information, including a phone number and physical address, is not available and confirmed.
The business does not publish security and privacy information.
“Miracle drugs” or “cure-all” drugs are promoted for a variety of illnesses.
There is no Vet-VIPPS certification.

DO look for the following FDA-recommended “signs of a trustworthy website”:

It is located in the United States.
It is licensed by a state board of pharmacy (a list is available on the NABP website; see “Additional Resources” below).
It provides a licensed pharmacist to answer questions.
It requires a prescription from a licensed provider.
It provides complete contact information and allows you to talk with a person about problems or concerns.

Caution

The FDA cautions that many online companies offering pet drugs without prescriptions operate illegally. The products they offer are often counterfeit, they make false product claims and they sell expired drugs.

For the pet owner trying to save money, the practice of ordering unsafe medication may prove to be a very costly mistake. Some medicines produced outside of the legislation of the FDA may not contain the appropriate active ingredients, rendering it ineffective or, worse, toxic. This is especially true of nonsteriodal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs), perhaps the most commonly dispensed type of drug from online sources.

Medications used for preventives against illness and parasites such as heartworms may not be effective. If an animal is not monitored and regularly tested for heartworms, this could be fatal. Another potentially dangerous condition will arise if heartworm medication is administered to an animal already infected with the parasites.

Watch this quick video update direct from the FDA:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mRmvJ9ISEJQ

The Best Rule

The best rule for your pet when it comes to drugs is simple: An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

If your animal requires medication, she needs to be examined first by a veterinarian! Simple. Sure, you may pay for an office visit, but you are buying the best, most responsible care for your loved one. In the long run, you will save on all counts!

Additional Resources

Food and Drug Administration: Purchasing pet drugs online
National Association of Boards of Pharmacy Vet-VIPPS: List of reputable online pharmacies

Also From Pets Adviser

How to Safely Remove Fleas from Kittens

Kristine Lacoste — Tue, 28 Feb 2012 20:19:58 +0000

By Kristine Lacoste, Pets Adviser

Learn how to safely remove fleas from kittens.

There aren’t many things cuter than a kitten, but imagine your shock when playing with your new furry friend and finding fleas. These little bloodsucking insects can cause major problems for kittens and need to be removed. There are treatment options available, and we explain how to safely remove fleas from kittens.

How Did My Kitten Get Fleas?

Fleas can make a new home on your kitten in many ways, even in indoor cats! The mother may have fleas, the kitten may have picked them up outside or sand tracked indoors can even contain fleas. As soon as you notice there are fleas either in the house or on a pet, don’t delay in taking action.

If you don’t see fleas on the animal but notice small, rice-like deposits on the stool, these are tapeworm segments caused by the fleas. Your pet will still need to be treated even if you don’t see fleas hopping around.

The Worst Thing You Can Do Is Nothing

A flea infestation can cause anemia in kittens. Check to ensure the gums are pink since this condition can be deadly, and bring your kitten to the vet immediately if you notice a discoloration. They can also cause excessive scratching, skin irritation and overall discomfort.

Kittens are especially delicate, and some treatments are not safe. Some can even cause death, so make sure to follow the advice of your veterinarian, the instructions included with the medications (if any) and our tips below. Never use medication designed for dogs or adult cats as these could be deadly for your kitten.

Flea infestations can also wreak havoc on your home and its inhabitants. I have encountered a flea infestation once before when I moved into a new home and they loved to bite me more than the animals! That situation required treating the animals, all surfaces in the home and using foggers to treat the entire house while it was empty. This is very inconvenient and something you want to avoid if possible.

If you are removing fleas from a newborn kitten, treat the mother and manually remove the fleas from the kitten. They are small so there isn’t a large area to cover, and you should be able to remove them with your fingers or tweezers easily. Because of their age and fragility, it is not recommended to apply any type of detergent or medication on a newborn kitten.

What You Will Need

Gather a few items before treating your kitten. You will need a mild dishwashing detergent, such as Dawn, a flea comb, tweezers, petroleum jelly, two towels, double-sided tape and a cup of very hot water or soapy water. If you have another person available to help, that’s even better.

Run a bath of warm water in the sink. Standing at the sink avoids having to bend over and gives you better control of the kitten. Ensure the water is not too hot or too cold. Immerse the kitten up to the neck and make sure all fur is wet. Remove the cat from the bath and place on a towel to apply the detergent. Gently massage the detergent all over the kitten and be careful when applying to the top of the head and face to avoid the eyes.

Fleas will run for the driest area of the kitten, so it is not unusual to see them swarm to the head and facial area. If you can grab these fleas, drop them into the cup of hot water you prepared or stick them on the double-sided tape before rinsing the kitten.

This isn't fun for me either!

If the kitten hasn’t clawed you to pieces or fled the scene yet, submerge the cat up to the neck in the water again to rinse off the detergent. Place the kitten on a clean towel to dry.

After the Bath

This is where the scavenger hunt begins! While the fur is still wet, go over the kitten with the flea comb or pick off fleas using tweezers or your fingers. Drop them in the hot water or place them on the sticky tape as you find them. You can also apply the jelly on the teeth of the comb to keep the fleas adhered or dab a small amount on fleas as you spot them. This will make it harder for them to run or hop away.

You’re Not Done Yet!

Place the dry kitten in an area free from fleas and grab a plastic bag or trash bag. Gather up all bedding and fabric the kitten may have come in contact with and wash in hot water. Vacuum any areas that the kitten has come in contact with, and treat any other kittens (or the mother if present and also carrying fleas). It’s important to clean the environment as well as the animals; otherwise the fleas will be a persistent problem.

What About Flea Medicine for Kittens?

There are medications readily available to treat the mother or adult cat. Medications for kittens are determined by age and can be deadly, so it is important to check with your vet before applying anything. Newborns need manual flea removal, but kittens over 4 weeks of age may be treated with Capstar (there is a minimum weight requirement). This application kills the adult fleas but not their offspring. Other medications list 8 weeks of age as a minimum and may also kill the offspring, but as always check with your vet before applying. Natural, homeopathic or essential oil treatments may also harm your kitten, so avoid using these.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jskEMZA4sUg

Fleas are pesky, tiny insects and multiple washings and cleanings may be necessary. Even after the initial treatment of your kitten and home, you may still see a few sneaking around. Kill or remove them as soon as you see them, and keep checking your kitten to make sure they don’t try to move back in and get comfy again. As the kitten gets older you will be able to switch to topical treatments but until then, stay vigilant and treat on the spot.

Photos: nicsuzor (top), kaelin.fe/Flickr

References/Additional Resources

Paris Revoir, DVM: Do inside cats need flea/tick prevention?
Lorie Huston, DVM: Indoor vs. outdoor cats
People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA): Safe solutions for flea control

Also From Pets Adviser

Veterinarian Advice on Senior Dogs’ Health Needs

Dr. Kenya Crawford, DVM — Fri, 24 Feb 2012 14:54:00 +0000

By Dr. Kenya Crawford, DVM, Pets Adviser

Do you have a dog that’s at least 7 years old?

If so, there are important things you need to know.

We all know that dogs do not live as long as we do. Often those years approach quicker than we realize. It’s a hard truth to face, but if your dog is at least 7 years old, he or she is now a senior citizen. As a senior pet, the specific needs have changed. Routine visits with the veterinarian, proper nutrition and an awareness of common symptoms of illness will greatly aid in the life expectancy and quality of life of your dog. In this article we will discuss the special love your dog now requires.

As a veterinarian, I often find that my clients look at me with perplexity when I announce their beloved dog is a senior. Their expressions quickly turn into concern and worry. “Doc, how much longer will he be around?” and “What can I do?” are questions that immediately follow.

Get to Know Your Veterinarian

First, it is very important to have a great relationship with your veterinarian. We are among your greatest sources for advice. I recommend that every senior pet have an examination at least every six months. It’s amazing the changes that can occur month to month in animals as they grow older, and waiting a year (or more) between examinations can become a gamble to your pet’s health.

During exams, veterinarians often pick up on subtle differences you may not be aware of. Believe me, it is best to know about potential problems before they become problematic! I also strongly recommend that at least once a year, general blood work be conducted. General blood work gives us a peek into the overall internal function of your pet. Once again, if subtle changes are detected sooner, we can stop problems before they start.

At times, clients have said to me, “I would rather not know if something is wrong; I just couldn’t take hearing the bad news.” In my opinion, that is the equivalent of saying, “I would rather not help if something is wrong.” Veterinary medicine has greatly evolved. Each day new discoveries are being made that will increase the life of our pets. But we cannot help or change what we aren’t aware of! With that said, visit the veterinarian at least twice each year, and at least once each year request that general blood work be performed.

Watch for These Signs of Trouble

Second, you should be aware of certain non-discrete signs pets may have when something is wrong. Some symptoms are obvious, such as vomiting, diarrhea, and not eating or wanting to play. Other symptoms aren’t so obvious. Here is a general list of common signs to keep in mind:

Constantly thirsty and drinking a lot of water
Heat seeking — always appears to be cold and staying by heated places
Gradual loss and/or thinning of hair
Persistent cough that is slowly becoming worse
Increased trouble going up and down stairs
Bad breath
Losing weight slowly
New lumps and bumps on skin

If your aging dog experiences any of the above signs, don’t panic; just call your veterinarian today. Together we can help make sure your pet has many more enjoyable birthdays.

Arthritis in Senior Dogs

Now let’s discuss one of my favorite topics to educate dog parents about: arthritis. (If you own an elder cat, don’t worry; there will be a future article just for them.)

Answer the following questions:

Can your dog go up and down the stairs as quickly as in years before?
Is it harder for your dog to stand up after lying down?
Does your dog walk a little bit more stiff?
Does your dog seem to walk worse when the weather is cold?
Does your dog limp or cry at times when he or she walks?

If you answered yes to any of the above questions, it is very likely your senior dog has arthritis. Arthritis in larger-breed dogs such as German shepherds, golden retrievers, and pit bulls begins sooner in life and is more pronounced. Arthritic animals deal with pain every day and are less happy. The good news is that there are many simple things we can do to help.

Diet: Diet, Diet, Diet! What are you feeding your dog? It is important to feed a food that is specific to the age and size of your dog. Look for a mature/senior diet. If your pet is a larger dog, get a food made just for large breed senior/mature dogs. Most senior formulas have joint supplements in the food. So every time your pet eats, he or she is getting joint vitamins. If your pet has more severe signs of arthritis, talk with your veterinarian about prescription joint diets such as Hills J/D. Also, make sure to measure and feed only the recommended amount that is on the food label. You don’t want your pet to become overweight.
Weight loss: It is tremendously important to make sure your dog isn’t overweight. The increased weight adds more pressure to the joints, thus worsening arthritis. An overweight dog will not have energy to exercise and will only continue to gain weight — which continues to worsen arthritis. Obesity will reduce the joy and life of your dog. If your dog is overweight, talk with your veterinarian about developing a weight-loss plan.
Glucosamine and Chondroitin: These are great joint supplements that can be given daily. These joint vitamins are safe and come in many forms, such as treats, tablets, powder and paste. They can be found in any pet store.
Adequan injections: In veterinary medicine Adequan was originally used to reduce trauma in the joints of race horses. Adequan is now available for dogs. It is a series of injections (given by your veterinarian) that helps to protect the cartilage inside joints. I love this product because it has very few side effects and has worked well to reduce arthritis in my patients.
Non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs): These medications quickly reduce pain and symptoms of arthritis. Often it is given every day, but daily administration of NSAIDs will gradually have a negative effect on internal organs. Thus, it is important to monitor organ function yearly with general lab work. The most common NSAID used in dogs with arthritis is Rimadyl (Carprofen).

Arthritis is one of the most common and uncomfortable conditions of older dogs. Some animals lose their ability to walk. Luckily, we have many defenses against this disease. Start helping your pet today by assuring the proper diet, weight and addition of daily supplements. Begin speaking with your veterinarian about Adequan and weight-loss plans, and whether NSAIDs are appropriate for your dog.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ri1RhYq-fdU

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Dr. Kenya Crawford, DVM, is the owner of Empire City Veterinary Care, a house-call practice that services the entire New York City area. Dr. Crawford also performs weekly wellness clinics in a select group of pet stores. For further information, please visit EmpireCityVetCare.com or call (646) 801-PETS (7387). You may also email Dr. Crawford directly with any questions you may have.