Thundershirt to the rescue

Early this morning, a big thunderstorm rolled around. I think it was the first one of the year for us, and the lightning and thunder were incredibly intense. Even I was a little anxious, I’ll admit it.

Is your dog scared of storms? Your pet is not alone. Sadly, animal shelters see an uptick in strays after thunderstorms. Pets that aren’t properly confined may run off in frantic fear of the deafening noise; other pets are abandoned when their owners decide they can no longer handle their erratic behavior.

What kind of severe reactions to thunderstorms are we talking about here? Some canines have hurtled themselves through plate glass windows; cats have hidden behind freezers only to be burned by the coils in the back. (Dogs are more commonly scared of loud noises than cats.) Other severe reactions can include destroying furniture, soiling carpets, not wanting to go outside for hours after the storm and developing an all-out fear of other loud noise (or not-so-loud noise).

Let’s hope your pet isn’t this bad off.

In this article, we’ll talk about what kinds of things you can do to soothe your dog during a thunderstorm.

Know How to Calm Your Pet

First, find a comfortable place — a ridiculously plush dog bed, a rug, a crate or space under a bed, even in the bathtub — that the pet thinks of as a safe haven. Offer a few reassuring words. You might want to remind your pet that a cherished toy is still here, just waiting to be played with.

But don’t overly cuddle or appear yourself to be anxious — your scaredy dog will pick up on that and will remain fearful. In fact, a couple of veterinarians told me you should not say anything while the storm passes, or even look the dog in the eyes, to avoid giving “cues” that something is wrong.

Other methods that may help:

• Music can soothe phobic pets. Play the music as needed, not continuously; otherwise your pet can become desensitized.
• Melatonin, an over-the-counter hormone, has been shown to calm some pups. They remain alert, not sleepy, but thunder just doesn’t bother them any more. Melatonin varies by manufacturer, so you’ll want to talk to your vet about what brand and dosage to give. Other holistic remedies are available.

Does the Thundershirt Work?

Now there’s a product called the Thundershirt. When worn on your pet (like a shirt, naturally) it applies constant pressure very gently to help calm it during stormy weather.

But that’s not all. You don’t have to wait for a thunderboomer (or a fireworks show) to come along. You can use it any time your dog is anxious. For example, the makers of Thundershirt say, the garment comes in handy when your pet is very excitable with strangers, pulling on the leash, has separation anxiety or is just generally weirded out in training situations.

But, does it work? Well, I was pretty skeptical. But I have heard good feedback from pet owners. There is a money-back guarantee, and the makers of this product claim an 80 percent “significant improvement” rate.

Here’s what a recent customer said: “I bought one and it just calms my dog, Sasha, right down. We had a huge thunder and lightning storm at 3 a.m., I found Sasha on the floor in a quivering mass of fear. I put the TShirt on her and [she] was so much calmer, no shivering, she went back to sleep.”

The Thundershirt isn’t really a shirt. (It’s not a cape either.) It’s more like a series of flaps that wrap and strap (with Velcro) around your pooch. But the concept makes sense. After all, we swaddle our own infants to calm them, right? And some kids with behavioral issues can be calmed with the use of “pressure shirts” and weighted vests to help with focus. For more info, check out Thundershirt information.

4 Quick Tips for Calming a Dog During Thunderstorms

1. Don’t excessively coddle and comfort and over soothe your pet . Seriously. He’ll instantly pick up on this blatant pandering, and it will freak him out even more. Basically you want to try to act like nothing’s wrong. (On the other hand, it should go without saying that you absolutely should never punish or yell at your dog for being clingy or somewhat “obsessive” during a storm.)
2. Use a quiet spot in your home as a shelter of sorts. Let the dog stay in the room with you, and keep a nice warm blanket for him to snuggle with. Also, provide a favorite toy to help provide a distraction.
3. Turn off the TV or radio — well, any loud noise. The weather is loud enough for your poor puppy, so it’s best not to make the situation even more intense than it already is. Gentle music, as noted above, may be all right.
4. Sounds ridiculous, but simply try to distract him. Try playing his favorite game, rewarding him with treats. The hope is that he’ll eventually associate lightning and thunder with good stuff rather than bad.

Of course, if you want to do a sort of DIY Thundershirt without shelling out 40 dollars, you can simply wrap your dog in some ACE bandages. That’s right, kind of like a mummy. Or try wrapping an old sweatshirt or beach towel around the pooch. Anything that can wrap around the chest or neck. The idea, after all, is to try to apply a gentle, soothing pressure.

If none of these tips work, consult your veterinarian about short-term pet meds for calming a dog during thunderstorms.

Photo: mixlass/Flickr

A) I don't push levers; B) Push it yourself.

Let me tell you something about cats. But first let’s talk about rats.

An animal pyschologist named Glen Jensen did a study back in the 1960s using rats, where he gave the rats a choice between “working” for their food — pressing a lever — and having their food (the same kind of food) freely provided to them from a nearby dish.

The results were surprising. The previous thinking had been that animals would go for the freebie — in other words, that they’d want to maximize reward over effort. But this new study showed the opposite!

Of the 200 rats, 199 of them wanted to work, at least a little, for their food, rather than being total freeloaders. Jensen, the proud researcher, called this phenomenon contrafreeloading.

A string of later studies by an assortment of researchers found similar results repeated time after time in other animals, from rats and gerbils to starlings and pigeons to monkeys, chimps and dogs. As long as they didn’t have to work too hard, the majority of animals in all these studies wanted to earn their meal.

Contrafreeloading is one of the reasons that dogs are so easy to train. It’s not the treat you’re giving them that they want; they also want to work for that treat.

Still with me? Here’s the part about cats.

The One Exception to the Studies

There was one animal, out of all the animals observed over the years, that would decline to work for food practically every time free food was also an option. This animal, in other words, is a total freeloader. That’s right, it was the domestic cat.

It turns out that cats, unlike all other animals, would rather not work for their food if you’re freely giving identical food to them so that it requires no effort on their part. That was the conclusion of a study by Kenneth Koffer and Grant Coulson, as reported in Psychonomic Science in 1971. The authors called this “feline indolence.”

“Indolence” — another word for “lazy” — is an interesting way of putting this. But I’ve drawn a different conclusion.

You want to know what I call it? Certainly not laziness. I call it SMART.

Duke University professor Dan Ariely, author of Predictably Irrational and The Upside of Irrantionality, agrees. “From all the animals that have been tested, there’s one animal that…never works for food when it has access to free food, and that’s the cat, the common household cat.” Ariely says. “So you could say that’s the only perfectly rational animal.”

In other words, why work when you don’t have to? Sounds rational to me, at least from a cat’s perspective.

Well played, cats. Well played.

Share This Article!

“THIS is why cats are smarter than any other animal!” – Click to Tweet

Email this article to a friend, tweet a link to it, share it on Facebook, whatever it takes. When you do this, a cranky cat somewhere in the world will push a tiny lever. NOT. (But please share this anyway!)

Additional Resources

• Forbes: Excerpt from The Upside of Irrationality, by Dan Ariely
• Glen Jensen, “Preference for Bar Pressing over ‘Freeloading’ as a Function of Number of Unrewarded Presses,” Journal of Experimental Psychology Vol 65(5), 1963
• Koffer, Kenneth; Coulson, Grant, “Feline indolence: Cats prefer free to response-produced food,” Psychonomic Science, Vol 24(1), 1971
• Social Triggers: Why people buy what they can get for free

Learn some tips for successful puppy housetraining.

I am getting a new puppy this week!

It is an exciting time — but to be honest, I dread the housetraining routine. Just thinking about it reminds me of an old joke…

Ever Heard This One?

“M-R puppies.”

“M-R not puppies!”

“O-S-A-R puppies! C-M-P-N?!”

“L-I-B! M-R puppies!”

Long before text messaging, this joke would bring peals of laughter from my childhood friends. It was funny because of the reference to puppies peeing!

Of course, if you are in the midst of housetraining a puppy, the humor may be lost on the constant task of the cleanup! What are the most effective methods of housetraining a dog? Keep reading, and you’ll find out.

Watch and Learn

The first key to effective training is to observe your puppy’s behavior. Your pup may need to go potty eight to 10 times a day! Puppies usually need to eliminate soon after waking, eating, drinking or playing. You will begin to understand your dog’s body language when she has to go. When you notice your puppy whimpering, whining circling and sniffing — it is time! (What are you waiting for, a handwritten note?) Take your pup to the potty area immediately.

If the potty area is outside, your puppy will eventually go to the door as an indication. If you are using papers or wee wee pads, place them in the same designated area and train to that spot. Use a keyword — as your dog is peeing or pooping say, “Go pee pee,” or “Go potty.” She will begin to understand the correlation of the word. Above all, be consistent with your program.

Crates Are Great

A young puppy should never be allowed the run of the house. Housetraining requires confinement of some sort, for his protection and yours.

The natural instinct of a puppy to seek safety and comfort from the den-like enclosure of a crate makes for a perfect housetraining tool. Dogs typically will not soil their sleep area. Crates also protect your belongings from sharp puppy teeth and protect your pup from electric cords, plants, stairs and areas that require supervision.

But… if you want this to work, you’ve got to know how to properly crate train.

Follow these guidelines:

• Never use the crate as a punishment! Your dog will come to fear it and refuse to enter it.
• Puppies younger than 6 months shouldn’t stay in a crate for more than three or four hours at a clip. They can’t control their bladders and bowels for that long. The same goes for adult dogs that are being housetrained. Physically they can hold it, but they don’t know they’re supposed to. Don’t be cruel.
• Crate your dog only until you can trust her not to destroy the house. After that, it should be a place she goes voluntarily.
• If your puppy continually soils the crate, discontinue using it for housetraining.

Always take your puppy to the “potty area” as soon as you take her from the crate or area of confinement. Reward her as soon as she relieves herself.

Watch This Video

In the video below, Bernadine Cruz, DVM, gives an overview of some methods:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yfNeXtTy0NY

Crime and Punishment

Animal experts agree: Rewards are the most successful training reinforcement. Never punish your puppy for accidents.

As soon as your dog successfully eliminates — in the designated training spot — praise her and/or offer a treat. She will learn very quickly the way to get the reward. If she makes a mistake, do not scold or reprimand. Just clean up and start back with the training. Punishments, either by scolding or physical corrections, compromise the trust factor with your puppy. You will end up with a dog that is fearful and anxious.

If your dog soils in the wrong place, she does not understand the mistake. Correcting her after the one-second rule will not work. If there’s one thing I can’t stand, it’s when dog owners rub their dog’s nose in urine. Do not rub your puppy’s nose in urine! It doesn’t work, and will never work. Ever. Don’t be cruel.

Clean the floor thoroughly with an enzymatic solution. Do not use ammonia; dogs instinctively return to areas marked with the scent of their waste, and the aroma of ammonia may be confused with urine. If your dog continues to return to the same spot, you may move potty papers in that area. Help him understand the right place to potty and want to go there.

Saved by the Bell

Puppies are babies, and they will forget training if they are involved in a more interesting activity. Sometimes the urgency hits and they will just start to pee before they give a signal.

When you see your puppy begin to urinate or defecate in the wrong place, distract her. A loud clap, whistle or bell will break her attention just long enough to scoop her up and get her to the right potty place. Encourage her to continue elimination with your special command and then reward the success.

Practice — and Patience — Make Perfect

Housetraining a puppy takes compassion, consistency and patience. It is your responsibility to help your puppy understand where and when to potty. Let me try to simplify this. Regardless of the method, housetraining employs two general guidelines:

1. PREVENT indoor accidents by confinement, observation and close supervision.
2. Take your puppy outside on a regular schedule and REWARD her for eliminating in the designated area.

Remember, a puppy less than 12 weeks old will not have developed bladder or bowel control. A dog may not be fully housetrained until 8 to 12 months old.

Magic Formula? Not So Much

Sorry, there are no magic formulas for housetraining a puppy successfully. It requires the pet parent’s investment of time and effort. The payoff is a happy, trusting relationship with your new fur-child.

If you find you need additional help, professional guidance is available. Contact a certified professional dog trainer (CPDT), a certified applied animal behaviorist (CAAB), or a board-certified veterinarian behaviorist (Dip ACVB).

Additional Resources

• WebVet: Housetraining your new puppy
  
• ASPCA: More advice on housetraining your puppy

According to the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA), more than 4.7 million people a year are bitten by dogs in the United States, with over 800,000 of them requiring medical attention. Because May 20-26, 2012, is National Dog Bite Prevention week, let’s take a few moments to learn how to avoid becoming a statistic.

Nip Biting in the Bud

The single-most effective thing you can do to prevent your dog from biting someone, including yourself, is to neuter him. Although neutering a dog isn’t a guarantee that he’ll never bite anyone, it will eliminate all that pesky, unnecessary testosterone, which is the cause of many a fight.

Here are a few other preventive measures you can take.

• Socialize your puppy from an early age, making sure he understand what behaviors are appropriate with people and other dogs.
• Teach your dog basic commands — especially recall, sit and stay — so that if you sense that a situation is potentially dangerous, you’ll be able to remove your dog from it without getting involved yourself.
• Discourage your dog from play-biting. If you teach him to bite on your hands and arms, it’s more likely he’ll bite for real, and not always gently. Also avoid loud, noisy wrestling, which can quickly turn into a snarling match. If your dog does bite during play, redirect him to a stuffed animal, one without a squeaker inside.
• Keep your pet on a leash whenever you take him out in public. No exceptions!
• If your dog begins to growl at or threaten another dog, remove him from the situation ASAP. Fights can escalate quickly, so pay attention to your pets body language and respond accordingly.
• Whenever you introduce a dog into a new situation, especially when other canines are present, observe them closely so you can remove your dog if things begin to get tense.
• If you don’t know a dog, don’t approach it unless its owner indicates you may. If the owner tells you the dog isn’t friendly, don’t push it. The owner knows her pet better than you do.
• If you find yourself in the middle of a dog fight, stay out of it unless you know what you’re doing.

Take this opportunity to sit down with your family and talk to them about dog safety. Even the most docile dog can bite if sufficiently provoked.

Protect Your Children

AVMA statistics show that children are the most frequent victims of dog bites, usually acquired from horsing around. Make sure your children understand how to interact appropriately with canines, especially when they’re meeting them for the first time.

Use common sense and make sure that you don’t leave your small children unsupervised around your pet, even if he’s always been the sweetest thing in the world. If your child is holding a Cheeto, your adorable little Yorkie might bite your child’s fingers going after it.

What to Do if You Are Bitten

Dog bites are nothing to mess around with. If a dog bites you hard enough to draw blood, especially if it’s a puncture wound, go to the doctor immediately, even if it means going to the ER in the middle of the night. Your risk for infection is high, so expect to take a course of antibiotics.

While at the hospital, you’ll probably be asked to fill out a dog bite report. Even if you aren’t acquainted with the animal that bit you, supply as much information as you can. The Centers for Disease Control compiles important statistics that affect the way certain breeds are perceived. More people are apt to report bites from pit bulls, rottweilers and dobermans than they are dachshund; and as my poor scarred arms can attest, dachshunds bite plenty.

For more information about preventing dog bites, visit the AVMA website.

Photo: Corie Howell/Flickr

I watch our Anatolian shepherd in the field during her regular morning routine. She is a disciplined, efficient animal. Every day, like clockwork, she eats, drinks, does her business, sniffs around the kennel, then moves to the highest point in the field where she takes her sentry-guarding charges. She has settled into the same spot so many times there is a distinct indentation in the ground from her perch.

Still, she migrates to her choice post and then turns in a complete circle not once, not twice, but a full three times before she sits and then lies in “her nest.” Her deliberate, predictable behavior makes me wonder, “Why do dogs turn around before lying down?”

Hard-Wired to Turn

Whether by nature, nurture or the original definition of obsessive compulsive disorder, many dogs (and cats) display the behavior of turning around in circles before finally finding a satisfactory spot. Behaviorists theorize that the habit is inherited from dogs’ ancestors, wild wolves. It is believed that today’s domestic dogs maintain much of their genetic dispositions from wolves.

Security Measures: Evolutionary behaviors for self-preservation are among the most powerful, and a dog may intuitively need to turn to position himself at the best possible advantage in the event of an attack. Legend has it that wolves always sleep with their noses to the wind, providing them with a security alarm for danger. Circling enables the animal to determine the direction of the wind.

Pack Mentality: Some dogs may be acting on a more primal instinct when they perform their settling pirouette. Wild wolves traditionally travel in packs. The instinct to form a tight circle proves necessary for survival. Nesting with the pack distributes body heat and ensures that each member remains within the pack’s protective domain. Turning in circles may also demonstrate an act of orientation and establishing a place within the order.

Checking on the Herd: Some characteristics were selectively bred into dogs to serve specific needs. Dogs like my Anatolian were developed as guardians for livestock in Turkey. The breed was used to protect herds from wild animals for thousands of years. These dogs spent their lives in the mountains with the flocks. It is conceivable that certain dogs may intuitively circle around to check for stragglers and inventory their herd. They may also be acting on the instinct to take a 360-degree look at the area in the event of an enemy approach.

Just Keeping Cool/Warm: Another practical explanation involves temperature control. Dogs that spend time out of doors in warm climates may scratch the dirt to move the hotter, exposed sod and bring cooler soil to the surface before they sit or lie down. In colder weather, turning creates a tighter tuck and assists with heat retention.

Creature Comforts

Of course the less dramatic but certainly more suspect reason for all the twirling (and burrowing too) is the natural desire for comfort. Your pet may simply be conditioning his bed for the most accepting position. The dog’s actions are much like yours when you get ready for bed, plumping pillows and tossing from one side to the other before falling asleep. Your dog just wants to make the most of the time in repose.

Circling exposes the random, uncomfortable stone or prickly twig that may have dropped into the nesting site, and it drives out unwelcome pests that may be buried. The movement of revolving tramples the earth down to a more cozy bed. Even dogs with a nice, padded cushion will often turn in circles as though “fluffing” the bed before settling.

Check out the funny video below, and watch how this cute pup works SO hard to get his bed just the way he likes it:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NTjqJyzXrc

Not All Dogs Do This

Experts seem to regard a dog’s nature to turn in circles as a “fixed action” typical of the species. I would disagree — not all dogs display the same instinct. My male Lagotto simply drops when he is ready to sit or lay. I often check to see if he has collapsed. Even during the night if he moves he trots to a different location and, “THUMP” he is down. No silly circling for this boy!

So why do dogs turn around (and around) before lying down? Perhaps the best answer is from an old vaudeville routine: “It is because one good turn deserves another!”

Additional Resources

• Perfect Puppy Care: Why do dogs circle before lying down?
• Potomac Patch: Why dogs do the funny things they do

Photo: KipferHome/Flickr

Why do cats sometimes hold a paw up in the air?

All animals, including cats, exhibit unusual behavior patterns. Have you ever noticed your kitty sitting with one paw raised in the air? You might have wondered why she does this.

Most Likely Answer

In most cases, this is just a quirky behavior, nothing more to read into it. Even humans have their little quirky behaviors. (Mine is twiddling my thumbs when I am sitting.) If you have ruled out any possible health reasons, you can relax and just enjoy watching kitty’s moves.

But… Let’s Not Rule Out a Health Issue

There are a couple of things you can check that may be causing the paw raising.

• Take a look at the paw, as well as the paw pads. If your cat meows loudly or pulls away, look for cuts or swelling.
• Also check for splinters, infected paw pads and ingrown toenails. (This is why claw trimming is so important.)

Pulled muscles or strained tendons could also be the culprit. The tendon that holds the paw in place is very sensitive, which would trigger pain.

Declawed cats sometimes experience pain after the declawing procedure. A hypersensitivity of the nerves in the toes can make for a lifetime of pain when weight is put on the paw, prompting the cat to hold her paw up. In some instances, medications will reverse this problem.

If you do not find any visible signs of a problem but you’ve noticed your cat holding her paw up more often than usual, have your veterinarian check things out.

If Your Cat Is Limping

Common sense tells us if your pet has a limp, she has some sort of injury. Arthritis, along with other joint problems, may be an issue with older cats in particular. However, since they are so lightweight, felines tend to tolerate this condition quite well. Take note that cat-limping has many possible causes, including neurological causes and even kidney disease.

Paws to Reflect

No medical problems found? Maybe your cat is just sitting there thinking, and for a moment has lost her train of thought. Holding her paw up for a few minutes, she may be asking herself, “Now, what was I thinking?” (That happens to us humans all the time, right?)

Then again, maybe your cat simply adores you — and by raising her paw off the floor she is only looking for a high-five.

Photo: J. Scotty Emerle/Flickr

If you’re reading this, you haven’t run away screaming because we’re talking about erections today. Piloerections to be specific. It’s not a dirty word, and we’ll explain what it’s all about when it comes to our animal friends.

Have you ever been playing with your cat and notice a sideways turn, complete with an arched back and puffed-up fur? Do you remember the seeing the black cat with an arched back on a pumpkin as a sign Halloween is coming? Have you seen your dogs play-fighting and some of the hairs on their backs stand up? That reaction is piloerection.

What Is Piloerection?

Piloerection is the raised hairs on the shoulders, along the back and (sometimes) the tail. This is most commonly seen on dogs or cats, but it has been observed in other animals such as birds, rats and many more. This hair-raising reaction is involuntary and a result of the nervous system. Adrenaline causes the muscles to contract, and the hair straightens away from the body as a result.

This reaction is also called “hackles” or “Halloween cat,” and is comparable to goose bumps in humans. Whenever a bee flies past my ear and I hear that notable buzz, I get goose bumps and feel a shiver all over (of course this also happens when I’m watching scary movies and a ghost appears, but I don’t want to sound too wimpy). Sometimes this reaction can make humans feel a chill or experience coldness until it passes.

Why Does It Occur?

Much like my bee reaction, piloerection is triggered by the feelings of the animal. There are many things that can cause the response, such as:

It's not just for black cats.

• Fear
• Aggression
• Arousal
• Insecurity
• Cold
• Defensiveness
• Meeting new people or animals
• Retain body heat (cats)

The hairs standing up make the animal appear larger and more intimidating to an antagonist or predator. The amount of time the reaction is present can vary based on the animal and the situation. Piloerection may not be visible on some animals with short, thick coats or hairless cats and dogs (the Xolo comes to mind). It’s not always a perfect line of raised hair and can be seen in patches.

Not all hairs stand up the same way on every animal, says Karen London, Ph.D. There is limited scientific data on piloerection, but she has observed the patterns in animals and reports three different types of piloerections in dogs. My dog is the first type, with a straight line of raised hairs along the back and to the tail.

How Should You React?

If your pet exhibits piloerection, look around for what might be triggering the response. Is an unknown animal or person near? Is your dog or cat angry? Is the temperature too cold? If you can determine the factor, it will help your pet calm down faster and relax. My cat usually does it when play gets too rough and he changes to attack mode. When he does this, he needs a few minutes alone to relax — or a body part will pay the price. The dogs usually display this reaction when play-fighting or when new animals are near.

In the video below you can see one cat’s reaction to being scared; note the arching back and fluffed hair:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YLGCvQTJilI

When you notice piloerection in an animal you don’t know, never assume it is a safe situation. This may be the only warning you get from an animal that they are not in a relaxed state or are aggressive. Instead of trying to calm the animal or approach it, allow some time for the animal to relax. It’s usually wise to assume the animal is trying to say, “Please leave me alone” instead of forcing interaction.

Photos: Ernst Vikne (top), Violette79/Flickr

Learn how to stop your dog from jumping up.

A new dog is always an exciting time, especially if it’s a puppy. Their personalities, wet noses, playfulness and kisses are too adorable for words, and their behavior is downright cute. Fast forward a year later and that same puppy is now an 80-pound dog and still exhibiting the same behavior. A dog that jumps up on people as a way of greeting them can make coming home a challenge or keep guests away. Want to curb the behavior? It is possible, and we’ll explain how to stop your dog from jumping up.

Keep in mind that your dog isn’t jumping up to annoy you. The dog thinks the behavior is perfectly acceptable as a greeting, and why not? He was never taught any different. The sooner you start training a dog the better, but even adult dogs can be trained to curb this behavior. This will help stop the jumping, scratched legs, torn pantyhose and kids being knocked down by an overly excited pet.

Methods to Try

If you are starting out training by yourself, leave the house and return a few minutes later. If the dog jumps when you walk in the door, give a command such as sit or stay and walk out again. Keep doing this until the dog does not jump when you walk in the door, and make sure to give the dog praise or a treat to reward the compliance.

If you are already indoors and your dog jumps, turn your back to the dog and cross your arms. This way your hands are not available for licking and you are ignoring the dog. Dogs strive for attention, and will probably walk around to face you. Give the dog a sit command and reward if it works. If not, turn around again and ignore the dog. Repeat this until the dog either stops jumping or obeys your command, and reward with praise or a treat.

Ask people in your house to do the same if the dog jumps. It won’t help with training if you are teaching the dog to stop while your son or spouse encourages the behavior. Let them know how you are doing it and ask them to help. If you live alone, you can enlist the help of friends, neighbors or family to stop by and assist with the training. This is especially helpful if you dog gets excited whenever the doorbell rings or there is a knock at the door.

In this next video, an owner teaches her dog to stop jumping at the door and when company arrives. Notice how the dog jumps or heads to the door; this causes the visitor to leave and the door is closed. Whenever the dog obeys the command or does not react to the door, the dog is rewarded with a treat and praise. It sure looks like a lot of treats, but the dog is more willing to change their behavior once they understand they get something they want. Once the behavior is learned, the dog will be able to listen to your commands and get praise in return instead of treats.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15cTiVSyH0A

Try practicing this in different areas so your dog learns acceptable behavior but not just at the front door. Have someone walk up to your back door, garage or approach while you and the dog are outside. As long as you continue practicing and teaching the same way, the dog will learn and be able to choose the behavior it wants to exhibit. Your praise will guide the dog to understand jumping is not rewarded.

What Not to Do

There are other methods people use to stop a dog from jumping that involves physical (and in my opinion negative) reinforcement. One suggestion is to grab the dog’s paws when jumping up and squeeze them hard. This doesn’t work for two reasons: the dog still gets contact from jumping up and you could hurt your dog by squeezing too hard. Some owners have tried it (one being my neighbor) and her dog started biting at her hands. The problem still wasn’t solved and she created a new one.

We’ve all heard the knee-in-the-chest method, and I don’t recommend it. Many vets can tell stories of misplaced knees hitting the dog in the wrong area or with too much force, and you should not chance injuring your dog. If your dog is running towards you and jumps up as a greeting, that momentum meeting your knee can cause serious damage and pain. The dog will either work harder to appease you after being hurt or become fearful or aggressive.

Do not forget to regularly exercise your dog. If you leave the dog in a crate all day or don’t allow time for play, you are limiting your dog’s ability to expel energy. That energy turns into a free-for-all when you walk in the door or someone comes to visit. If you are expecting company, make sure to allow plenty of time for exercise and play before the guests arrive to keep the dog relaxed. You may even want to crate the dog until everyone has arrived and the dog gets accustomed to the activity, then you can walk the dog around on a leash to meet and greet everyone.

Do not forget to praise your dog every time a command is obeyed. Positive reinforcement does two things: your dog understands the behavior is acceptable and your dog knows you are pleased. Treats given with praise offer an additional incentive for your dog to follow your directions, and once acclimated to stop jumping you should be able to reinforce the praise without treats. Dogs can regress from training if it is not kept consistent, but you can always start over with the same method that worked the first time.

When to Call a Professional

If you have tried the methods above and nothing is working, it is possible your dog may have an underlying cause for not learning the acceptable behavior. There are trainers and behaviorists that will work with your dog, as well as obedience schools that offer classes to teach acceptable behavior in a different setting. If you have recently adopted a dog, keep in mind that some behaviors are easily picked up in shelters from other dogs and people.

Every dog and every owner is different, and finding out what works best for you may take some trial and error. Remember to give praise, be patient and be consistent, or seek the help of a professional if needed. Your guests will thank you and your dog will be a well-mannered welcoming committee for anyone that enters your home.

Photo: @PeachySangria/Flickr

Litter box training a dog is possible. If that's your thing.

I hear “litter box” and instantly think of cats, as I’m sure most of you do — but what about dogs? Can dogs be trained to use a litter box? The surprising answer is yes. It’s not for everyone, but some pet owners have asked us about it.

Unlike cats, dogs normally need to go outside to relieve themselves. This may not always be feasible if you live in a tall building, work long hours or can’t make it to the door in time. Dogs can also get bladder infections if forced to “hold it” for long periods of time — but there is an indoor solution.

Litter boxes provide an additional place for your dog to go when needed. Note that it is not considered a replacement for going outside completely, but an inside aid to limit the need to go outside as often. Litter box training is easier for younger or smaller dogs, but it is possible with older and larger dogs. This can also be a suitable alternative when grassy areas are not nearby and your dog avoids concrete surfaces for this purpose.

Dog Litter Boxes

In the video below, a dog trainer talks about dog litter boxes. So watch this, and then I’ll tell you what you will need to get started:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1oFZIWbw_0

What You’ll Need

You will need a litter box, obviously. Depending on the size of your dog, a regular litter box will do as long as it is a few inches deep. There should be enough room for your dog to walk around and choose a spot. For male dogs that lift their leg to pee, some pet owners have used a covered litter box with the top and opening cut out. This way the back and sides will (with luck) catch any spray missing the box while still keeping an open feel.

Larger dogs will need larger boxes, and some pet owners have used large travel crates and cut out the top and front for this purpose. If you start with a puppy that will grow larger, expect to replace the box size as the puppy grows. Keeping the same small box for a growing dog will almost guarantee that accidents will happen.

Filler is important. Don’t use regular cat litter in your dog’s box. Some cat litter can cause health problems in dogs that ingest poop. If your dog is already used to going on puppy pads or newspaper, start moving these into and around the litter box. The scent and material should let your dog know that this is an acceptable place for relieving himself.

Once your dog gets used to the area, you can switch to dog litter (yes, this is a product!) made just for litter boxes for dogs. Most of them you find will be similar to rabbit filler; they will look like small pellets that turn to sawdust when wet and are biodegradable.

Use the same product; don’t change litter types or materials once your dog is used to it. This can cause confusion or accidents to start happening around the house.

Fencing-in the area or making a barrier offers some privacy and keeps the contents contained. Plastic lattice sheets or gates near openings can be used for this purpose. You don’t need to do this, but it will help keep the area clean.

Everything Is in Place – Now What?

If going indoors or on newspaper is new for your dog, you will need to train the dog to become familiar with the area. You can also soak some newspaper in his urine or bring some feces from outside and place it in the box to show that this is acceptable. If you dog motions for you to let him out, try leading him to the box area to familiarize him with the process. If your dog does use the area, offer lots of praise.

Accidents can happen, so have cleaner on hand and show the dog the litter box area. Rubbing the dog’s nose in the urine is most certainly not recommended. There can be several reasons for the accident, such as not making it to the box in time or missing the box while going. A firm “No!” and placing the dog in the box will help reinforce the proper area for peeing. If the dog goes once in this area, offer praise.

Once the dog gets used to the newspaper or if using pads, you can slowly start incorporating the dog litter with the existing items. Each week start using less newspaper and more litter until all that is left is litter. Use reinforcement by using words such as “Go potty,” and praise the dog every time the litter box is used.

Try also doing this when the dog goes outside so the association between the act and both areas is consistent. You may consider placing the box closer to the door the dog uses to go outside to reinforce the association. Tiled areas are best for cleaning up accidents, but if carpet is the only flooring, you can put down newspaper or plastic underneath the box. Try not to move the box’s location too much so you don’t confuse your dog.

Can I Quit Letting the Dog Out?

While indoor training can be the only means for your dog to potty, don’t have unrealistic expectations.

It is great as a backup so your dog doesn’t have to hold it forever, but you should still set aside time to go outside for potty and play. This method can be great for small dogs with small bladders or older dogs that may need to go more frequently — and you are helping your pet’s health by not making him hold waste in his system for longer than necessary.

With the right materials and some patience, you too can have your dog using the litter box as part of a regular routine.

Additional Resources

• Keith Turbyfill: How to litter box train your dog
  
• ASPCA: Advice for multiple-animal households and litter
• Carol Osborne, DVM: Dog urine problems

Photo: stella sia/Flickr

You may have noticed a unique sound coming from your kitty’s throat, along with a quick movement of her lower jaw. While this sound is all about prey, be it bugs or birds, some cat owners liken it to the sound a dolphin makes. Have you ever wondered, “Why does my cat chirp at bugs?”

Here are some other words pet owners have used to describe this sound:

• Chattering
• Clicking
• Talking
• Trilling
• Jabbering
• Jawing
• Sending a Morse code
• Totally freaking out!

Chirping, although generally associated with birds, is a feline behavior that is not thoroughly understood. It occurs most often when the cat is excited by prey or else frustrated from not being able to get to the prey.

The chirping sound of a cat is usually made when her eyes spot what she may consider good prey. Whether she is outside or sitting inside, gazing out the window (taking in all the action going on in the great outdoors), you may spy her tail getting all puffed up or twitching in a certain way. She begins making those chattering noises in anticipation of perhaps catching a squirrel, bird or other small creature that is roaming around the yard. If your cat is inside, perhaps there’s a bug of some sort crawling along the floor, wall or ceiling.

Strange Noise Indeed

My son tells me he once noticed his kitty chirping from another room. Curious as to what was bringing about this kind of language, he decided to investigate. Upon entering the room, he saw his cat — eyes fixated on the ceiling — watching a moth fluttering around.

At first, these chirping sounds seemed kind of weird to him, but my son has now become used to the noise and realizes it is a natural behavior. (By the way, sometimes the cat gets her prey, sometimes she doesn’t. But the chirping eventually stops.)

Check out this quick video of a kitty chirping over… rays of light:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gWbIVZ2dYPk

You Can Try Chirping Back

Also my son shared with me the story of a pet owner whose cat chattered to bugs she stalked inside the house. To save herself the trouble of killing the bug, the owner would imitate the noise and her kitty would come running to save the day.

This little setup worked well for both parties. How wonderful it must have been to have not only an adorable cat, but one that was on 24/7 pest patrol!

So, Why Exactly Do Cats Chirp?

Here’s a likely reason: They’re practicing the “kill bite.” Feline behavioral specialists tell us that the muscle movements involved during chirping are very similar to movements seen with the special neck bite that cats in the wild use to kill birds and small rodents. In other words, chirping cats — frustrated because they can’t quite get to their prey — are using those same muscles they would use if they were killing the prey.

“Why does my cat chirp at bugs?” seems to be quite a question! To many of us, the mystery behind this particular vocalization of cats (strange, yet a little comical) will never be completely solved. Does your cat chirp? Tell me about it in the comments below!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8TxFpq2FyU

Additional Resource

• ASPCA: Cat vocalizations, meow more than ever

Dogs do the darnedest things!

Some “weird” dog behaviors are actually very common — it’s just that we find them weird. However, it’s important to note that quite a few behavioral oddities are caused by underlying anxiety, which you should address. And that’s not all. It’s even possible that a strange behavior may have a medical cause.

According to Dr. Raymond Van Lienden, DVM, of Clifton, Virginia, while an odd behavior by your pet may seem comical to you and your family, you should be aware that if your pet suddenly exhibits very unusual behavior, he could have a health problem.

Included in the medical possibilities for bizarre behaviors are neurological problems, tick-borne diseases, rabies, brain tumors, lead/mercury poisoning, liver ailments and epilepsy. Noticing a drastic change in a dog’s behavior is often reason enough to have him checked by a veterinarian.

Here are six of the strangest dog behaviors I’ve ever heard of, some of which are fairly “normal” and others medically suspect:

1. Performance Art

An 8-year-old Lab/retriever mix plays a strange game every time her family takes her along on their camping trips. She will get plastic water bottles and take them away. The family members noticed that the dog would walk along the beach, pulling rocks out of the sand. After the dog walked around the campsite three times, rock in mouth, the rock would disappear. Where the rock went, no one knew.

One day a family member happened to see about 30 water bottles close to the camp. Half-buried in holes (dug by a dog), the bottles were sticking up in the air, cap end in the ground. Next to each bottle was a rock. The whole thing looked like some sort of canine-produced art installation!

Possible cause: Your guess is as good as mine. Maybe this pet has a thing for water bottles and has made rock-collecting her hobby! Humans do these things, so who’s to say dogs can’t enjoy them as well?

2. Walking Backward

An older Labrador named Max suddenly began walking backward in the house.

Possible cause: With Max acting somewhat confused and evidently not quite his normal self, veterinary care was needed immediately — his actions could have stemmed from neurological problems.

3. Startled by Sneezes

A human sneeze really shakes some dogs up. An “achoo!” will send them racing around, barking and whining. However, at least one maltese doesn’t seem to mind the sneezing his owner does — the doggie just barks and comes running toward his master, as if to make sure that everything is all right.

Possible cause: Sneezes are loud to a dog’s delicate ears. That’s pretty much it.

4. Exit, Stage Right

Leo is a dog that insists on being on the right side when being walked. If anyone encroaches onto his side, Leo will come to a complete halt and then circle around his walker (wrapping his leash around the person as he goes) until he is back in his “right”-ful space. This behavior has earned him the nickname “Reset” since he is always resetting his place.

Possible cause: Anxiety.

5. Mmm… Bath Water

Some dogs love drinking water from the bathtub when someone is bathing. These dogs don’t seem to care if the water is cold or hot — just so it’s from the tub. They seem to enjoy licking the water off the person’s feet and legs as well. How refreshing.

Possible cause: They simply love fresh water, regardless of the source (keep that toilet lid down).

6. SLURP! Can You Hear Me Now?

Of the six strangest dog behaviors I’ve ever heard of, this last one is my favorite — licking people’s ears! Yep, you read it right.

Possible cause: Ear licking by dogs can stem from a variety of reasons: as part of a grooming ritual, the simple enjoyment of the taste of ear wax or even as a show of affection. So, just in case your pet doggy wants to spread his love, be sure to keep your ears clean!

Now it’s your turn. Does your dog do anything out of the ordinary? I would love to hear about it. Just leave a comment below.

Photo: TheGiantVermin/Flickr

Why does a dog eat snow?

Most people prefer a nice, hot cup of hot cocoa in the winter as opposed to a flavorful snow cone or Slurpee. We usually prefer a warm treat when the weather is cold, but there are some dogs that absolutely go crazy when it snows and love to eat as much of the white, fluffy stuff as they can. Some pet owners simply believe that snow is a tasty treat for their pets, but they don’t realize that there may be important reasons behind their dogs’ fascination with snow.

Down With Dehydration

All too many pet owners believe that leaving a bowl of water out for their dogs for several days until they finish it is fine. This is unacceptable. I challenge each and every one of them to leave a glass of water out on the counter for a couple of days and then drink it. They surely wouldn’t enjoy a glass of tepid and stagnant H2O, yet they expect their dogs to drink it.

Dogs that do not have access to fresh and clean water may consume large amounts of snow. Canines dehydrate very quickly and will do nearly anything to replenish the fluids that they need.

Freshly fallen snow doesn’t have as much water in it as you might think. It only contains about 5 percent water. A dog that depends on snow for its fluid intake would have to spend much of the day eating snow to get enough fluids for its survival. No joke: Always have fresh and clean water so that your pet can stay happy and healthy.

Taste the Freeze

There are some feisty four-legged friends that simply enjoy eatingsnow. Everybody has their snacking preferences, and some pooches just love noshing on freshly fallen snow.

There isn’t anything wrong with that unless they consume a lot of it. Too much of the frosty precipitation can cause an intestinal upset, which could have you steam-cleaning the carpets. Be wise and watch your pup in the winter. You will be less busy, and your carpets will be in better shape, because of your attentiveness.

Medical Madness

There are plenty of medical problems that a dog could have that causes him to chew on snow. Your beloved pup should be taken to the veterinarian if he appears to be eating a lot of snow. The vet will check your baby to see if he is showing any signs of kidney disease, Cushing’s disease or even issues with his thyroid.

Walk On the Wild Side

Canines in the wild had to rely on nature to sustain them. They hunted rabbits and squirrels for their dinners and drank from cool, fresh springs and rivers most of the year. In the winter, they were still able to hunt for their food, but most of their water sources would have become frozen. They needed to find a way to get the fluids required for survival. In wintertime, those fluids usually came from consuming large quantities of snow. This was what every canine’s ancestors had to do to preserve themselves. We all do whatever we have to do to survive another day. So did they.

In today’s society, we have running water and should be able to provide our dogs with clean and fresh water throughout the day. The average pooch shouldn’t have to fend for himself and have to locate his own water source. This should be taken care of by you to ensure your faithful companion is always hydrated and healthy.

What are you waiting for? Now is a good time to check that your dog has a fresh bowl of cold H2O.

Photo: AJU_photography/Flickr

We have previously discussed bringing home a new cat when you have other cats at home, but what if you have a dog?

Bringing a new cat into a home that is already blessed with a family dog would be very simple if all that was required was ordinary “people introductions,” such as a polite handshake and a “Hello, nice to meet you. My name is Fluffy.” However, since cats and dogs are not people, it doesn’t work that way, of course.

Slow and Steady

According to the Human Society of the United States, the introduction process between a cat and a dog should be done slowly. You cannot just throw them together and hope they form a strong liking to each other.

When deciding how to introduce a new cat to a dog, first make sure your dog responds well to commands (“sit,” “stay,” “come” and “down”) even when he is distracted. A few “leave it” commands will also be helpful in the introductory period.

Once your dog has these commands down pat, you will be able to better control his excited behavior around the new family member.

While it may take years for the cat and dog to reach a mutual understanding of each other, the younger and more energetic the cat is and the calmer, more obedient your dog is, the more likely they can become used to sharing a home and your love.

3 Typical Responses From Dogs

According to the ASPCA, dogs that have never had to share a home with a cat usually respond to this living arrangement in one of three ways:

1. Play: The cat may be treated like just another dog — a welcome playmate. However, cats tend to go into defense mode when receiving an invitation to play from a strange canine.
2. Prey: Dogs often look at cats as prey, with the urge to chase the cat when she takes off running.
3. Wariness: Your dog may be intimidated by the new cat, approaching her with caution or peering at her from a distance. He may choose to just ignore her altogether, if possible.

The Nose Knows

When bringing your new cat home, be sure to have her new living quarters ready (litter box, food and water, and bed). Allow the two animals to get the scent of each other under the door. Swapping their bedding and other items back and forth over a few days will also help them become familiar with each other’s scent. Don’t even try feeding them together — that will be asking for disaster.

Let them interact only when someone is watching over them. This is an all-important rule in introducing a new cat to a dog: strict supervision. In fact, even when you feel certain they are on friendly terms, you may not want to leave them alone together. In any case, always make sure kitty has an escape route, along with a safe haven in which to hide.

Keep the first meetings short, then gradually increase the pets’ time together gradually, until they show no fear or aggression. Praise each of them for good behavior, especially your dog for “staying” when commanded to do so. If either party becomes aggressive, it’s time to slow down the process.

Watch this quick video for some simple pointers:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2k71jXwmys

3 More Tips

Some helpful tips in making the introduction a success include:

1. Trim your cat’s claws.
2. Ask your dog to come to you or leave the cat alone, giving him a treat for proper obedience.
3. Avoid scolding your dog. A positive approach will go a long way in encouraging him to form a friendship with the new cat.

Again, keep a careful eye on the pair. Although the cat may be smaller, an outstretched cat claw can cause serious injury to a dog. With that said, you may find that with the proper introduction methods, the two were meant to be together.

Additional Resources

• Human Society of the United States: Introducing a new cat to other pets
• ASPCA: Introducing your cat to a new dog
• Sharon A. Harvey: How to introduce a new cat to your resident dog

Photo: Yukari*/Flickr

Taking the time to sit back and watch my pit bull and my chihuahua playing together is sometimes very rewarding to me. It makes the everyday problems in life go away, if only briefly, as I gaze at the two of them enjoying each other’s company. Although Bunker (the pit bull) is much larger than Angel (the chihuahua), when they are in play motion, size does not matter.

One game they seem to like the best is chasing Angel’s tail. She will run round and round in circles trying to catch her tail. Often, she will succeed. Bunker, who has only a remnant of a tail (since his was docked when he was young), will eventually join in the chase. It seems much easier for him to catch her tail. Luckily, he never tries to bite it off — once he catches it, he lets go, takes a little break, and the chase is on again.

Why Does a Dog Chase Its Tail?

There are several reasons that dogs chase their tails, including:

1. Being confined in small quarters where movement is restricted
2. Boredom, especially in older dogs
3. The presence of fleas or irritated anal glands
4. Canine compulsive disorder, which although rare, can be treated with anti-obsessive medications such as Prozac.
5. Hereditary tendency, with the behavior being passed down from generations, especially in some breeds including German shepherds, Australian cattle dogs and bull terriers
6. High cholesterol, which as suggested by veterinarian Marty Becker, could mean that the dog’s cholesterol levels have blocked the flow of brain hormones, which control mood and behavior. (More exercise could be the solution in this case.)
7. Not knowing why the tail is there to begin with! This part of a puppy’s body is fascinating to him, especially if he has no other playmates. Watch this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=de1a-DSL1G4

Can You Eliminate Tail Chasing? Should You?

While most tail chasing stops as a puppy gets older, many adult dogs continue this practice, sometimes just to get attention. Even though tail chasing can be entertaining at times, you might want to distract this behavior by offering your pet a ball or Frisbee to chase every so often.

According to the book Why Dogs Do That: A Collection of Curious Canine Behaviors, in some cases a visit to your veterinarian may be necessary. If you notice Fido gnawing and scratching at his hindquarters, he could have a skin ailment or a wound prompting him to go after his tail.

While I’m on the medical issues concerning this behavior, let me also mention that epileptic-type disorders, which bring about seizures, could be the culprit. If your dog exhibits any seizure-type problems, seek your veterinarian’s help immediately.

While celebrity trainer Cesar Millan thinks that tail chasing is sometimes just a canine’s reaction to all the excitement in his life, I have my own opinion as to why my Angel and Bunker play this game — they just wanna have fun.

Additional Resources

• Marty Becker, DVM: Why do dogs chase their own tails?
• Nichola Dodman, DVM: Tail chasing in dogs
• Planet Dog: A Doglopedia: Why dogs chase their tails

Why do cats love boxes?

Unwrapping presents or getting deliveries is the favorite part of a cat’s day for some of our feline friends! Each offers an opportunity to use that box for a multitude of ideas. You’re probably wondering, why do cats love boxes? Here’s a list of possibilities that your feline friend likes to get boxed in.

Now You See Me, Now You Don’t

Cats love to hide. A box creates the perfect opportunity for that! They can play secret agent, stalk without being noticed, create their own fortress or they may just want a place to hide from all the hoopla of kids and boisterousness. It’s no secret that cats love to stalk, and having a way to do it while shielded from view is the ultimate sneak attack.

Chew Chew

If you’ve ever seen the corners of a cardboard box whittled down and torn, you have a kitty that loves to chew cardboard. Another reason your kitty may love being in the box is having the option to lay leisurely while chewing away at the edges. I have a rectangular box that once contained a telescope and is by far one of my kitty’s favorite places to lay. He uses it to nibble on the edges as he stretches out like he’s on a lounge chair.

Princess in the Tower (or Prince!)

Cats like to keep watch on everything and are alert by instinct. They watch for dangers and predators, and the best place to do that is from a raised platform. If your box is tall or on a raised surface, your kitty has a high place to get better views of what’s going on while feeling out of danger. As long as the box is on a stable source it shouldn’t be a problem, but check it to make sure it won’t topple over easily.

Play Time

The reason your cat may like being in a box can be as simple as play time! Your cat may view it as a game, waiting for toys to get thrown in or grabbing anything that passes by the opening. My cat loves to hide in a box by the stairs and stick a paw out at anything that passes. Imagine my surprise when my pant leg gets pulled backwards as I walk away! It can be startling at first but it’s great fun for him. Keep in mind that if the play draws blood or scratches skin, it might be time to trim the claws.

I can still fit, therefore I sit.

Tight Squeeze

Cats feel secure in small, tight spaces. They check the openings by using their whiskers to ensure their bodies can fit inside. Any small space that just barely fits your kitty is perfect for feeling secure and keeps people (or other pets) out. The places a kitty could hide are not just limited to boxes; cats love shoe boxes, plastic bags, their carriers with familiar smells or even bookcase cubbies. Some even love curling up under the covers warm and out of view from anything or climbing behind furniture.

Whatever your kitty’s preference for hiding, playing or stalking, always make sure there is ventilation and no risk of suffocation. Your cat should always be able to get in and out of a hiding place easily and safely. Any boxes that become problematic or you find your kitty getting stuck in, remove the item for safety reasons. Your cat will find another hiding place or run to the door for the next delivery.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUnmmbH_hrQ

Photos: Peter Huys (top), pwever/Flickr