Obedience training class

Dogs are amazing animals that can be trained to do all kinds of things. From hunting to sniffing out controlled substances, tracking people and animals, and serving as a blind person’s eyes, these intelligent and loyal creatures can learn a lot. Of course, when it comes to your puppy, you’d really just be happy if he was housebroken, didn’t chew things and did what you told him to, right?

Handing your pet over to someone else to train is a good way to ensure it’s done the right way and he doesn’t pick up any bad habits. The results can be quick and impressive, and you will also learn how to carry on this training at home.

However, you need to be sure that you are comfortable with the training school’s methods and approaches before you enroll your pet. The best thing to do is to visit and watch a class without your dog, and see how you feel about what takes place in the session. Here are four things to look out for when choosing a dog obedience training school:

1. Is Everyone Happy?

This doesn’t just mean the canines. Of course, training should be enjoyable for the students, so if the dogs seem to be having a bit of fun, that is a very good sign — but also look at your fellow pet owners. Are they participating much? Have people been encouraged to bring their children along to get involved with the training process?

2. How Are They Training the Animals?

Look at the tools and methods the trainers are using and teaching. Red flags that this is not a good place for your dog include the use of things like electronic collars or choke chains. The best way to train a dog is with praise and small rewards. If the trainers are in any way physical when berating a dog — for example, pulling on the leash or hitting him — look for another school.

If the teachers at your child’s school were choking or smacking him or her, you would have the teacher out of there in a flash, and it should be no different for your puppy while he’s learning dog obedience.

3. Are There Enough Professional Trainers?

To get good value for money out of your sessions, you are going to want to look at how much attention and time your pet is going to get. One trainer dealing with 20 dogs and families is not going to give you optimal attention. There should be at least one professional there for every six dogs in the class.

4. Is It a Nice Environment?

Have a look around. Is there enough space? Is it hygienic, or does it smell like a million wet dogs? Is there a lot of clutter that might distract your dog? Also, is the space well secured, with any gates latched and all doors closed? The last thing you want is for your dog to make a break for it if he’s not enjoying his lesson.

By taking care and checking out a few different obedience schools or training providers, you should be able to find one that will give you the results you want, as well as providing a fun activity for your family and a great bonding experience for you and your new pet, in a safe and healthy environment.

* * *

This guest post was written by Ajeet Khurana, who writes about dog training on his blog http://dog-obedience.net. Photo: ActiveSteve/Flickr

Source: 4 Tips for Choosing a Dog Obedience Training School

Written by Guest Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

Dear Pets Adviser: I got two kittens from two different litters from the SPCA in July. One was 2 months old, and the other was 5 months. From day one, there was no problem with potty training. Both cats shared the box. But right before Thanksgiving, the younger cat, as we finally determined, was pooping right next to the box. We’re pretty sure she pees in the box, though. She’s a happy and affectionate cat and gets along very well with her older brother. We have tried soft love to tough love, but nothing is working. Help! — Glen

Congratulations on your new additions! Like all smart cat people, you wisely adopted two kittens instead of one, so you’re probably enjoying some amusing kitty antics. Aren’t they adorable?

But they’re not so cute when they don’t use their litter boxes. Cat poo is one of the vilest smells on the planet, and nothing tops the ammonia-scented odor of cat pee. When they use their boxes, the smell is contained, but when they don’t use the box? It can take years and multiple cleanings to remove the stench, and even then you can expect the ghost of cat pee to return whenever it rains.

For cats, who prefer things neat and tidy, litter box training isn’t difficult. In fact, some cats seem to be born knowing where to potty! So why is it that your cat won’t poo in the litter box? Read on.

Cats Can’t Talk

If your cat starts peeing or pooing outside her box, the first thing you should do is take her to the vet for a full checkup, including blood, urine and fecal exams. Your cat can’t speak human or use a keyboard, so she can have a hard time telling you if something is wrong. Changes in behavior, especially elimination, can be a strong warning signal that your cat is feeling under the weather. To be safe, make sure there isn’t a medical reason for her new behavior.

Cats are Fussy

Unlike dogs, who enjoy rolling in all sorts of unpleasant things, cats are fussy and fastidious, especially about their bathroom habits. If they don’t like the litter you’re using, they’ll let you know by refusing to potty on it. If you don’t keep the litter box clean enough for their liking, they won’t use it. If you’ve recently changed the kind of litter you buy, change it back. Scoop at least once a day, preferably twice.

My cat won't use the litter box!

Cats Don’t Like to Share

Even though your cute kittens may have shared everything since you adopted them, they might be at the age when they need their own space. Your Pretty Princess could be letting you know that her big brother doesn’t keep the bathroom clean enough for her. (For people like Glen who have multi-cat households, read the very good primer from Dr. Deb on keeping the peace in the house.)

So Glen, get another litter box. Although some cat behaviorists recommend two boxes per cat, I have found that one per cat suffices. Let’s hope your kitten’s sibling will stay out!

Cats Love Revenge

If you can’t resolve the problem with any of the above solutions, you probably have a behavioral problem on your hand. In other words, your cat is pissed at you and getting her revenge by pooping where she’s not supposed to. Did you serve dinner too late? Work too many hours that day? Have a new baby, adopt a new pet, move the furniture, change the cat litter, change the brand of food you give her?

Any these slights could be the cause of your cat’s naughty behavior. Finding the cause can be tricky, so start by correcting any easy changes. Move the furniture back, return to the former cat litter or food and do anything else — short of giving away the baby — to return your pet’s environment to how it used to be.

The most likely cause, however, is that your cat wants more attention from you. If she feels like you’re ignoring her, she’ll punish you by exacting revenge. Thwart her vengeance by setting aside time during the day to pet her, play with her and give her treats.

Cats Are Mystifying

If you’ve eliminated the possibility of medical, environmental or simple behavioral issues, you’re one lucky dog. If not, welcome to my life.

I adopted my cat Annie when she was only a few weeks old. At the time, I had another female cat and was a dozen years away from becoming a dog person. All that changed after I got married and adopted my first dog, and then my second, and third, and fourth… Although the kitties were safely ensconced in our sunny guest room, which was plenty large for two 16-year-old cats.

But then Lucy, Annie’s longtime companion, died of kidney disease, and I began boarding dogs in earnest. Although I found it annoying, it was no surprise when Annie started to pee on the bed. After going through the checklist, I accepted that the only way she’d stop was for me to get rid of all the dogs, and that wasn’t going to happen.

I wasn’t able to heal the wound, but I found an excellent Band-Aid: a waterproof mattress pad with the sides cut off, spread over the made-up bed. Yeah, it’s not a solution, but it keeps the bed dry and clean.

I wish you luck resolving your kitty’s potty problems. Be sure to report back and let us know how it goes!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vttUDqGtlDk

Source: Help! My Cat Won’t Use the Litter Box!

Written by Tamar Love Grande Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

I have a dog who is 9 months old. I have had him for a month and know nothing about previous owners. When I leave the room, even if it’s only for a few seconds, he goes crazy. He whines and whimpers and is even worse when he is in his crate. He tries to get out. How can I solve this, as he is very noisy and upsetting the neighbors? I have tried covering his crate so he cannot see, but he still knows when I leave the room, no matter how quiet I am. I have left clothes with my scent on them near the crate, but he still knows. How does he know if he cannot see me leave and can smell my scent?
– Lee

First off, congratulations on adopting a dog! (Reading between the lines, my guess is that you got him from a shelter or rescue. Thank you for saving a life.) Unfortunately, it sounds like your pup has separation anxiety, which can be difficult to manage. In fact, his former owners may have given him up because of this behavior. Here’s how to deal with separation anxiety in a new dog.

Understanding Why Dogs Develop Separation Anxiety

As you’ve learned, dogs with uncertain pasts can come with baggage. You don’t know where they’ve been or what has been done to them, and shelter life often makes things worse. They feel abandoned, like children sent to foster care, and respond by becoming “velcro dogs” who are reluctant to leave your side. It’s bad enough when you’re in a different room at home, but when you leave, it can be unbearable for your dog, and he might act out with barking, inappropriate elimination or destructive behavior.

The good news is that because he’s a puppy still, you’ll have much better luck than if you adopted an older dog, who can be set in his ways. There’s still time to eradicate this behavior, but it will take effort, dedication and consistency on your part.

What Doesn’t Work

A common mistake that owners of dogs with separation anxiety make is thinking that a second dog will keep him company and make him less anxious when you aren’t home. Your dog wants you. By all means, adopt another dog, but don’t expect that this will cure the behavior.

For the same reason, your scent will not satisfy your dog. He knows you’re gone because he can’t see you, and the house is probably quieter than usual. Covering his crate is a good move, but it won’t work unless he’s emotionally comfortable in his crate.

Can Crate Training Cure Separation Anxiety?

One of the toughest things about separation anxiety is that crating him doesn’t make a difference. In fact, he probably hates it. The best thing you can do for him is to start him on a crate-training program, which can take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks to complete, depending on the dog. Meanwhile, you’ll also need to work on his barking.

As you train him, go slow and make sure he’s comfortable with each step of the training. Move at his pace, not yours. If you rush him, you run the risk of making the separation worse.

Other Ideas That Might Work

You’re right in thinking clothing that your scent can comfort him, but the scent needs to be inside the crate, not next to it. Your dog will want to roll around in your smell and perhaps cuddle with it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agnOSMS_4o0

If your dog doesn’t respond to training, ask your veterinarian about doggie Prozac. You might also try Rescue Remedy, but it doesn’t always work. You can also try a Thundershirt, which has proven successful for dogs with anxiety.

Good luck to you! Let us know how things go.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5X4GlN3X94o

Photo: protogrhapher20/Flickr

Source: How to Deal With Separation Anxiety in a New Dog

Written by Tamar Love Grande Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

When kittens attack!

It is a rare thing for cats to actually attack their owners, unless of course you own a lion, tiger, leopard, cougar or mountain lion. If you have recently acquired a feral feline, you could have attacking issues because the cat has grown up in the wild without the knowledge that humans can be friends.

I will assume for the sake of this article that the precious cat in your life is a typical domestic cat that truly isn’t in some kind of weird attack mode when the sun goes down. There are ways to get your cat to be calmer during the hours that you need to sleep.

Why Does My Cat Attack Me at Night?

Cats are natural hunters, and they are really good at their jobs. The slightest movement can send them into a frenzy of desire to chase and take down whatever it is that they think is prey. On top of this, cats usually hunt at night.

When you are lying down, all comfy and cozy in your bed, and you move your foot or leg into another position, your cat will see the movement but won’t see that it is actually you under the blanket. Most people play with cats by moving an object covered by a blanket just to watch them pounce on it. That might have been cute and funny when the pet was a kitten, but not as an adult with large teeth and sharp claws! It’s best not to start and encourage this behavior when the cat is a kitten, but if you created this behavior, there are ways to teach an adult cat to stop.

Spray First, Talk Later

It is a well-known fact that cats hate water. If you have ever attempted to bathe a cat, you know what I’m talking about… Fur is flying all over, the claws are flailing and the teeth are chomping on whatever they can catch.

One of the fastest ways to stop a cat from exhibiting unwanted behavior is with water. No, you don’t need to give the cat a swirly in the toilet bowl, so stay where you are and keep reading.

Fill a new spray bottle with water. You can pick them up at any dollar store, so please don’t reuse a bottle that once held any kind of cleaner — it has the potential to harm your cat, so spend the buck and get a new spray bottle.

When you go to bed at night, put the spray bottle on your night table. If the cat tries to attack you at night while you are sleeping, grab your trusty spray bottle and spritz him in the face. Follow the spray with a firm no or loud clapping. Don’t give the cat any other attention after the reprimand. Every time the cat repeats the attacking behavior, spray and tell him no. Eventually, this should cause the cat to think twice about attacking you under your blankets.

The Unbreakable Feline

Believe it or not, there are kitties who really couldn’t care less if you spray them with water. These tend to be harder to break from their nighttime predator habits. The easiest way is to lock the cat out of your bedroom, but of course that leaves the rest of the house open for dastardly feline antics.

Tightly roll up a ball of yarn so that it will be difficult for the cat to unravel it. Insert a pet treat in the middle, or soak the inner end of the yarn with tuna oil. This will maintain the kitty’s attention and eliminate your nocturnal battle wounds.

If these tricks don’t work, your cat might be suffering from… um, vampirism, maybe? In this case, I’d suggest that you wear a necklace made of garlic and sleep with the light on! Just remember that your friends at Pets Adviser are pulling for you, and we wish you the very best.

Additional Resources

• Mary Burch, certified animal behaviorist: Why does my (mostly) sweet cat attack me?
• Vicky Halls, cat behavior expert: Our 1-year-old cat comes into our bedroom every night…
• Dr. Justine Lee, DMV, DACVECC: Why does my cat attack my ankles?

Source: What the-?! Why Does My Cat Attack Me at Night?

Written by Roseann Lahey Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

Who would suspect that lurking within the sweet, female kitty purring in our lap is a howling banshee, capable of writhing on the ground while making ungodly sounds, seeking any opportunity to escape our loving home?

The mating instinct, shared by every living thing, is designed to guarantee that all species are perpetuated. No matter how much mankind masks, controls or dresses it up, we are as much driven by mating impulses as our feline friends.

However, when our pets (a.k.a. family members) come into heat, it is so blatantly not about their relationship to us that we’re disconcerted by these suddenly unfamiliar beasts. Potentially embarrassing questions may get asked by our 5-year-old, “Mommy what’s wrong with Buttons?” — who appears deranged, rolling madly about on the floor.

Fortunately, most responsible citizens neuter their pets today for their good health and to help contain the population explosion. Gone are the days when children would get their first exposure to “where babies come from” when the family cat gave birth. But suppose for one reason or another, your cat has slipped through a crack in your otherwise responsible behavior. What exactly are you in for?

When female cats come into heat, there’s no living with them. They tear about the house, writhe, howl, refuse to play or eat, and leave their scent everywhere in the hope that a male cat might creep in. An otherwise content, indoor kitty will bolt out any cracked door or open window. Her piteous lament transforms a peaceful home into a place of frayed nerves and sleepless nights as she roams the halls pining for any neighborhood tom. It’s so unseemly, so unlike the behavior of our dignified furry feline, that all we can do is bear witness to nature’s power over the domestic as our sweet kitty becomes wild cat.

All’s Well That Ends Well

My brother came home from college one weekend and presented my mother with a tiny, rescued, grey-haired beauty who I immediately named Smokey. My mother never had a cat, never wanted one. However, I was over the moon. I’d been asking for a kitty ever since I could actually say the word, and finally, at the age of 8, I got my wish.

After several happy months, Smokey began behaving bizarrely, alarming me and driving my mother crazy. This led to Smokey achieving her own heart’s desire — “Let the damn cat out!” my mother screamed.

Of course, my mother hadn’t anticipated the caterwauling that would ensue as every neighborhood Tom, Dick and Harry came courting. She also hadn’t anticipated the kittens that Smokey would birth nine weeks later, much to my delight and to her horror. That was Smokey’s last litter. My mother learned the value of having your cat spayed, and Smokey returned to being the cat I knew and loved.

Good Advice

Since female cats can mature as early as 4 months old, and pretty much go in and out of heat continuously until they mate, getting them spayed (unless you’re a breeder) is the best thing you can do for your cat.

Let’s Talk About Males

Unaltered males are just as difficult to live with during the mating season. They will spray their odoriferous scent on doors, walls, corners, inside closets, in the basement — in short, the whole house. It is not an odor that goes away.

Once released, the tom goes in search of females. Gardens and roofs are preferred places where (as writer Henry Wendt has put it) “females utter their wild, banshee cries to the toms; and the toms respond with hoarse, howling concerts to impress the females. These catcalls are a reminiscence of the nocturnal love life of wildcats in the forests.” The cat’s sharpest sense is hearing, and those harrowing cries not only enable the cats to find each other, but also stimulate desire.

How Do Cats Mate?

Females signal their willingness to mate by lowering their head, bending their front legs and raising their rear quarters; their tail is held up and to the side of their body. They move their back legs rhythmically, as if walking in place.

There is no subtlety here. This position and behavior definitely get the male’s attention. A male mounts the female from behind and grips the nape of her neck with his teeth, giving her a “love bite” to control her movements. When the male finishes, his bite can result in a scar that remains visible a long time after. And that scream from the female as the male withdraws (pain or pleasure?) may have something to do with the male’s barbed penis (think of a fishhook). It’s believed that the purpose of the barb is to stimulate ovulation. Let’s hope for the sake of the female that it also stimulates pleasure.

Unlike with dogs, intercourse for cats is quick, lasting only moments. As soon as it’s over, the male leaps away to evade the vigorous blows from the female’s paws. That’s the thanks he gets for making her pregnant.

“Many females,” writes Wendt, “writhe violently and roll convulsively after the tomcat has released them. They repeatedly lick [themselves] and refuse to accept the tom’s advances until the post-coital excitement has died down.”

Wow. Was it good for you?

Nature’s Gift

Our animal companions are ruled by passions so independent from the life we live with them, and largely so unknown to us, that to discover the beast within is to see these creatures in all their complexity. It honors us that we have their trust and company. We marvel at interspecies friendships between an elephant and a dog, or a gorilla and a cat, but our attachments, if we step back from their familiarity, are just as amazing and marvelous. Mating gives us a glimpse into their ancestral selves and lives. There is something awesome in knowing that we have been partners for thousands of generations, and have bred cats and dogs to our human tastes and needs, and yet their essential nature remains unchanged.

This article was adapted from a two-part article that originally appeared at WebVet.com as Part one and Part two. They were written by Sally Schloss and were reviewed by Dr. Amy I. Attas.

Source: How Do Cats Mate? From Cuddly Kitten to WILD Cat

Written by WebVet Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

Why on earth would you want to rub this puppy's nose in pee? Get real!

Just in case some of you didn’t realize it… We are living in the 21st century.

Just the thought of someone thinking that rubbing a dog’s nose in pee makes the hair on the back of my neck stand up. I cannot begin to fathom that there are people out there living in today’s society who would actually think that this barbaric practice is an acceptable way to housebreak a puppy.

I’ve often wondered if these people would rub their children’s noses in their underwear if they had an accident while potty training. Perhaps they make the child wear the dirty underwear on their heads. Of course, most people would never do such a horrific thing to a child, but they won’t think twice about grinding a dog’s snout in urine.

So, just to be clear, let me put it in big, bold, red letters, and I will underline the key word:

Rubbing a Dog’s Nose in Pee
DOES NOT WORK.

Got it? Great. Let’s move on to housetraining methods that do work.

First, realize that housebreaking takes patience and consistency. Rewarding proper behavior will work much better than punishing a puppy for having an accident.

Many people don’t realize that the length of time that it takes to housetrain strictly depends upon the dedication of you and your family. Canines can’t housebreak themselves, so unless the owner is steadfast in getting the pup outdoors when he has to pee, there will be accidents. To put it bluntly: All accidents that a puppy has are the result of the owner’s negligence.

Listen for the Yip

A puppy’s first cry must be heard and acted on by his human family. The initial whine means that the puppy needs to go outside to pee or poop. It is essential to his training that you immediately get him outside to do his business. When he urinates or defecates, give tons of praise. Act like your pet just produced a million-dollar turd and he will soon learn that handling his bowels or bladder outdoors is a fantastic thing.

Water Means Wet Spots

Brand new pet owners may not realize that a puppy needs to go outside to pee shortly after drinking water. The truth of the matter is that fluid tends to move quickly through a puppy’s system, especially if they run around your house afterward.

It’s never wise, nor is it healthy, to withhold water from a dog simply to decrease the amount of urine that it produces. Watch for the signs and listen for his yip if you really want to get him housebroken quickly.

Oh Can You Smell That Smell?

One of the biggest problems that pet owners have with the housebreaking process is that they do not clean up accidents properly. In case you didn’t know it, doggies have a super-keen sense of smell. When a dog gets the scent of urine in a particular place, he will immediately go to the spot and cover it up with fresh pee. This can be avoided with a thorough cleaning.

Urine accidents that happen on hard surfaces such as ceramic tile, concrete floors or linoleum are easy to handle. The urine should be absorbed with plenty of paper towels. Then you should mix up a bucket of bleach and very hot water. The area must be scrubbed to eliminate any residual odor that the doggy might be able to pick up. The better you are at cleaning, the less likely your pooch is to have additional accidents.

Embrace the Crate

One of the best tools that a pet owner should invest in is the airline crate. Dogs are generally clean animals and do not like to pee or poop where they sleep. Puppies that have been housebroken by using the crate training method are less likely to have accidents in the house unless they have underlying health issues. Consider crate training to keep your home free of the smell of urine.

 Photos: Shutterstock (top), fazen/Flickr

Source: Rubbing a Dog’s Nose in Pee Does Not Work!

Written by Roseann Lahey Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

Do you know the difference between dog trainers and behaviorists?

Most people think that when they are having problems with the canines  they should immediately call a professional dog trainer. Not all problems require retraining your pet. Often, pet owners will spend gobs of money trying to get their pups to behave in the fashion that they desire only to find out that they really should have sought the assistance of a professional canine behaviorist.

Before contracting with any animal professional you should understand exactly what each one does to help dogs. Here’s the difference between dog trainers and behaviorists:

Trainers = Teachers

Professional dog trainers perform an important service. Everybody wants to have a beautifully behaved pup by their side as opposed to a monster mutt that cannot behave properly. A dog trainer can help teach your pooch to be the perfect companion.

Not all trainers provide the same type of service. Some train in basic manners such as sit, down, stay, come, go to your space and walk nicely on a leash. There are other canine educators who work to teach dogs not to jump, dig in the trash bin or lounge on the couch or beds. Still others perform more advanced training such as scent discrimination, protection training, complete off-leash commands or even search and rescue training.

Before you contact a dog trainer, know what you expect him or her to do for you. If you are simply looking for someone to teach your doggie to sit and come called, almost any professional dog trainer can help. It’s best to thoroughly discuss your needs before entering into a training contract. This will ensure that there is a complete meeting of the minds and each person knows exactly what is expected of him or her.

Behaviorists Make for Better Behaved Buddies

More and more people are beginning to seek out the help of animal behaviorists. Problematic pups can be difficult to live with, and in all honesty they aren’t very happy pooches. A skilled behaviorist can help transform your mutt from a monster into the perfect pooch.

Dogs that have been experiencing emotional problems can lash out in a variety of ways. A behaviorist will first do a complete evaluation before creating a plan for helping your pet overcome his issues. You will definitely be an integral part of the transformation.

Because of indiscriminant backyard breeders, puppy mills and people who breed canines for fighting purposes, behavior problems within the dog world have increased tremendously. Puppies that lacked proper socialization and human interaction when they were little tend to grow up to be unstable adults. Living with a pet that cannot be approached by anyone besides its owner must get help quickly. These puppies tend to eventually become fear biters or very aggressive.

Destructive dogs can benefit from a professional behaviorist. There isn’t a pet in the world that truly wants to do things to annoy the heck out of their owners. An experienced behaviorist can help you find out why your pooch is destroying your home. Most of the time, dogs become destructive because they are bored when they are left alone; however, some dogs suffer from separation anxiety and the only thing that soothes them is to chew on your things.

The behaviorist will be able to make your dog realize that you will always come back home or show you how to keep your pup busy when you are away from home.

Photo: ryantron/Flickr

Source: The Difference Between Dog Trainers and Behaviorists

Written by Roseann Lahey Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

Almost all pet owners want to impress their friends and family with cool tricks that their dogs can perform. The perfect pooch will perform them and appear to be happy doing so while her inner puppy is probably rolling her eyes and pondering why you have to make her act so silly.

Regardless of what is going through your pup’s head, you can train her to perform the “shoot the dog dead” trick. In this article, I’ll show you how.

Train Your Dog to Play Dead (“Bang!”)

Before you can begin to teach your best friend to do the “shoot the dog dead” trick, your dog must have some level of obedience training. At the very least, she will need to obey the down command (in other words, she lies down on command), but the trick will work better if she will also obey the stay command. Ensure that she is reliable on the down command before even attempting to teach her the shooting trick. It would be wise to practice down/stay often so she will follow through every time you give her the command.

Here’s How to Do It

1. Let’s start with the side roll. This one is simple. Put her on a down stay. Once she is in the proper position, lying on the floor, roll your pooch gently onto her side and give her the stay command. You might need to hold her down for a few seconds so that she gets the idea. Once you release her, give a tasty treat and plenty of praise. Practice this initial step in short, two- or three-minute sessions a few times a day. Dogs do well when their training is consistent.
2. When your pet gets good at that part, it’s time to add a verbal cue. Choose which word suits you best for the trick. I would suggest “Bang!” “Pow!” or “Boom!” There are more creative pet owners who practice making the sound of a machine gun for the trick. The sound is completely up to you; just be consistent with the wording as your dog will respond only to that sound.
3. When your dog gets that hang of the verbal cue, add a visual cue to the mix: Make a shooting signal with your right index finger and thumb and quickly say your command word.

Your pup will probably become reliable on the “shoot your dog dead” trick within two weeks of proper training. Practice regularly if you expect your pet to be ready to perform on a moment’s notice.

Standing “Shoot Your Dog Dead” Trick

This one is a bit harder to master. First, teach the dog to reliably perform a stand stay. Practice until she stays still while standing until you release her from the command. Once she can handle this, you can move on.

Next, give the “Bang!” “Pow!” “Boom!” or machine gun sound. Then tell the dog “down.” (If she already knows the side roll, she will probably think that you forgot to tell her to go down and will simply roll onto her side.) Take the time to practice with your pet, and both of you will amaze your family and friends.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkN4eQE-Tn8

Additional Resources

• Animal Planet: Top 10 super cool dog tricks
• Gerilyn and Paul Bielakiewicz: The Only Dog Tricks Book You’ll Ever Need

Source: How to Teach the “Shoot the Dog Dead” Trick

Written by Roseann Lahey Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

My cat meows constantly!

Do you sometimes become annoyed by Fluffy’s constant meowing? There are several possible answers to the question “Why is my cat always meowing?”

1. “Look at Me! Look at Me!”

Just as a child learns to cry when he wants something, excessive cat meowing sometimes is the feline’s way of getting what what he wants. If your cat is always meowing to initiate play or to seek your attention, stop responding every time you hear her meow. Give her attention only when she is quiet. When she begins meowing again, walk away.

Don’t completely ignore her — spend quality time with her every day, playing and talking with her. Let her know she is loved. Consider getting a pet sitter if she’s left home alone for most of the day.

The attention-seeking meows are not quickly stopped; nor are they easily brought to an end. Breaking this cycle will take time and patience. Teaching your cat that she will be rewarded for being quiet is quite a task. Keep rewarding quiet behavior while ignoring the ongoing meows. Eventually she will get the idea.

So, what kind of rewards are we talking about? Sophia Yin, DVM, MS (a veterinarian and animal behavior expert), suggests that you use food to teach your cat that quietness is rewarding. Give her bite-size treats or kibble, making sure she finishes each one with just one or two bites. Instead of pouring her kibble into a bowl, feed it to her one piece at a time, teaching her to sit quietly for several seconds to receive the treat. Always reward her before the meowing kicks in, as well as before she gets up. This method is the quickest way to teach a kitty that sitting quietly has its rewards.

2. “I’m Not Feeling Well”

Meowing is a cat’s way of vocal communication. Your cat may be trying to tell you of a discomfort she may have or that something is not quite right. If your cat is always meowing at night, she could be suffering from hyperthyroidism (usually seen in cats older than 10). Other medical possibilities that may be causing the nonstop meowing are high blood pressure and/or kidney disease. A trip to the veterinarian is in line, especially if the continuous meowing is a new behavior.

3. “Feed Me!”

Many cats become incredibly vocal when feeding time approaches. Getting an automatic feeder that opens at set times will entice kitty to meow at the feeder — not at you. (Also, have you checked your cat’s water bowl? Maybe it’s empty, and Fluffy’s trying to tell you so. And why we’re on the subject, have you cleaned the litterbox? Is the entrance blocked to it? These things might all be additional reasons for the extra meows.)

4. “I’m Totally Stressed Out”

A nervous or stressed cat often becomes meowy. Any changes in home, an illness or the loss of a loved one can trigger stress in a cat. Once you figure out what is stressing her, you will be able to help her adjust to the changes. Give her extra attention and quiet time during this adjustment period.

5. “I’m Getting Old… and Kinda Confused”

As with humans, cats can suffer from a form of mental confusion because of aging. Becoming disoriented, they often meow pathetically for no apparent reason, especially at night. Try a nightlight if the cat seems to experience nighttime disoriention.

6. “I Want to Breed”

Female cats go crazy with the vocalizations when they are in heat, and male cats reciprocate when they smell the female in heat. This can be a maddening noise to live with, so do what Bob Barker always told us and have your pet spayed or neutered!

7. “Just Saying Hello”

Your cat may begin meowing as soon as you walk in the door after a long day at work. Sure, you may be tired and ready for your own quiet time, but take this meowing as a compliment. Isn’t it great to know that you are loved by your kitty?

***

Don’t scold or shout at your cat for meowing, as she will realize that the noise does get your attention. Also, never use the “squirting water” method in hopes of stopping the meowing. This can frighten your pet and make her even more insecure.

Additional Resources

• ASPCA: Meowing and yowling
• Sophia Yin, DVM, MS: Cat constantly meows and drives owner crazy

Photo: tunaboat/Flickr

Source: Does Your Cat Meow Constantly? Here Are 7 Possible Reasons

Written by Gayle Hickman Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

How to remove cat urine stains and odors

We’ve all had that sinking feeling when you see your pet hunch down and you know he is urinating on your floor. Panic, stress and a race to move him elsewhere sets in almost instantly. In other instances we smell a faint urine odor but cannot find the source. Whether you catch the pet instantly or find it later, urine stains do need to be cleaned if you want to get rid of the odor.

Urine can seep through the carpet to the padding and subfloor. Upholstery and wood floors are also at risk of harboring the ammonia-type smell, but there are some solutions to help remove the stain and unpleasant odor. Cat urine is stronger than dog urine because of the protein-rich diet, and the source needs to be found or it will keep creeping up no matter how many deodorizers you spray in your home.

Cats urinate outside their litter boxes for several reasons. Some of these are:

• Marking territory
• Full litter box
• Loss of bladder control
• Illness
• Litter box location (no privacy or difficult to access)
• Type of cat litter
• Stress (moving or other animals)
• Recent declawing caused paws to be sore

No matter the surface of the urine, always try to soak up as much of it as possible with paper towels or a dry cloth. Press on the area to absorb the urine; do not rub it in since this can spread it into surrounding fibers or deeper into the subfloor. There are several cleaning solutions you can use depending on the surface.

Carpet

After drying the urine as much as possible, use a cleaning solution to treat the area. Always test an inconspicuous area first if you are unsure of the effect the solution will have on the carpet (under a sofa or behind furniture where any damage won’t be seen).

1. Rub baking soda and water into the carpet and leave it to dry. Vacuum up the solution when dry and repeat if necessary. This solution is good for surface soiling but may not be best for deep or subfloor extraction.
2. Also use warm water and vinegar if you have it on hand.
3. Using a steam cleaner or renting an extractor or wet vacuum may be effective in removing the moisture and killing the odor-causing bacteria.
4. A cleaner or detergent with hydrogen peroxide is another alternative, but test this on dark carpets as it might lighten some fabrics.

Upholstery

Dry the surface as much as possible with a dry cloth or paper towel. Clean the surface with a cleaning solution such as one of those above and pat dry. Use a hair dryer to dry the area starting from the outside of the stain. Some steam cleaners also have accessories or handles for these types of furniture and can be used to kill the bacteria. Just as with carpet, test an inconspicuous area first so you don’t leave permanent damage in a visible area.

Hardwood Floors

Urine can seep through the seams of the wood floor and affect the padding or subfloor below. If you have pets, make sure your wood floors are sealed well. In the event of a urine accident, dry the moisture as much as possible. The warm water and vinegar mixture may be best, but any damage may depend on the type of wood you have on your floor.

Test a hidden area just as you would with fabrics before applying any chemicals or cleaners. If you are successful in removing the urine completely and it does not return for a few days, consider applying another coat of sealer to your floors to prevent further accidents from getting trapped into the subfloor.

After treating the area for stain and odor, you can apply an odor remover. These are usually found in pet stores; look for one that has enzymes in it to attack any remaining bacteria. Be careful not to look for one designed to treat blood stains as these are not as effective on urine odors. You can also use the same homemade remedy for removing skunk odor.

If you smell urine but cannot find its source, try using a blacklight to illuminate the soiled area. Even with the above solutions, sometimes the urine is old or trapped so deep into the subfloor that it simply cannot be removed without replacing the flooring. If you do decide to replace your flooring, seal the subfloor well (if installing a wood floor, seal the surface well).

Additional Resources

• Cornell University College of Veterinary Medicine: House soiling by cats
• Cat Secrets Revealed: How to clean cat urine

Photo: yousscool2010/Flickr

Source: Litter Box Blues: How to Clean Cat Urine Stains and Odors

Written by Kristine Lacoste Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

Is it safe to walk your cat on a leash in the city? Probably not worth it.

The New York Times recently published an article — essentially a guide on  how to train a cat to walk on a leash — that quickly shot up to the top of the newspaper’s most-emailed list. The writer, Stephanie Clifford, working with TV cat behaviorist Jackson Galaxy, talks about how her cat can now go on walks to the park in Brooklyn.

I’m afraid that because of this article, thousands of people who live in cities will think it’s perfectly harmless to take their own cat to the park. Why am I afraid? Because it’s potentially dangerous, for several reasons.

For starters, city parks are filled with dogs, some of which are running off-leash, many of which consider cats prey. Pet owners who don’t have a clue how to handle a cat that suddenly bolts are setting themselves up for the risk of a deadly situation.

As Clifford herself cautions in her article (and as Pets Adviser has warned before), urban areas are chock-full of dangers for pets. In your apartment, you have relative control over your cat’s environment. But out on the street, danger lurks at every corner. Besides the obvious danger of the cat suddenly running away at the sound of a loud noise, there are toxins, like antifreeze spills.

Some cats simply aren’t suited for walks outdoors on a leash. I know my kitty, Hillary — smart enough to be trained to sit — is far too much of a scaredy-cat to ever do this. But some pet owners, reading Clifford’s article and hoping for the best, may not size their cat up correctly, forcing the cat into a dangerous situation. Please realize that it took Clifford half a year to finally get her kitty to tolerate walks outside. Do you have that kind of patience?

Standard pet collars (as opposed to harnesses suitable for felines) can be particularly risky, as cats can slip right out of them. Always, always use a harness with cats if you attempt a walk. Plus, some folks might yank at the leash as they would with a dog, but cats’ necks and bodies are more delicate.

In short, this whole story makes me nervous. Your cat is not a dog, who will happily gallop beside you on blocks-long city walks. So, unless you’re in a rural area away from highway traffic, away from dogs, away from other obvious and non-obvious dangers — please don’t walk your cat on a leash! No matter what the nation’s leading newspaper says is the hip new thing to do.

Additional Resources

• Kitten Care: Letting cats outside?
• Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine: Antifreeze poisoning
• Best Cat Art: Will your cat walk on a leash?

Photo: Khomille/Flickr

Source: Please Don’t Walk Your Cat on a Leash!

Written by David Deleon Baker Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

Use our techniques to train your dog to stay off the couch.

Most people who own canines as companions treat them just like other members of their families. Although the dog is well taken care of and treated like gold, many people just don’t want their pets on the furniture. The main culprits? Having to clean up pet hair on the couch or being embarrassed when company comes and the doggy won’t get up so your guests can take a seat. Some owners simply believe that pets belong on the floor and not napping on the couch.

Whatever your reasoning is for keeping your puppy off the furniture, you will be able to do so if you are patient and consistent. Follow these 4 sure-fire ways to train your pet to stay off your comfy sofa.

1. Start From the Beginning

The best way to train your dog to stay off of the couch is to never allow him up on it in the first place. Canines are creatures of habit. If you ever give your four-legged friend a license to lounge, he will automatically believe that the sofa is an acceptable place for him to take his afternoon nap. Being consistent from the beginning by never allowing your pup on the furniture is the best way to ensure that he will understand that the couch is for humans and not for him. (Poor fella!)

2. Narrow Down the Suspects

There are many households that have more than one canine living in the home. Heck, I’ve got eight Newfoundlands in my home. Most multiple-pet owners immediately think that the youngest or newest addition to the family is undoubtedly the one that decided to relax on the couch. When you have several doggies, you cannot afford to jump to conclusions. However, if you have only one pet, you already know exactly who is getting hair all over the sofa.

To find out which pup is the couch snoozer, crate all but one of the dogs when you are not there to watch them. Leave a different dog out each day and check the furniture for evidence when you return. You should soon learn which of your canine companions is taking over your living room furniture.

3. Learn to Love Laundry

Nobody likes laundry, but your trusty laundry baskets can be helpful in training your pooch to stay off the couch. Simply place the baskets on top of the cushions. This will help to block the pet’s access to the furniture.

Sometimes an owner will arrive home only to find the baskets on the floor and pet hair on the couch. This is an easy fix. Get some empty plastic water bottles or cardboard boxes and fill them with small stones. Load the baskets with the bottles and boxes and place them on the couch. When your dog tries to get up onto the furniture again, the baskets will fall and the sound of the rocks banging together will send him running away from the furniture. It’s decidedly low-tech, but this trick works.

4. Catch ‘Em in the Act

Dog owners who can catch their pup on the couch can teach him to stay off the couch much more easily. If this happens, immediately approach your dog and take hold of his collar. Gently pull him off the furniture while sternly giving the command “Off!” Repeat this anytime you catch him on the sofa. After a week or so, your pup will get the idea.

Should your dog decide that he doesn’t want to listen to your “Off!” command, remove him from the sofa and put him on a down stay on the floor. Every time he tries to get up on the couch you will have to deter him. Eventually you should see progress.

Of course, you can just shake a can filled with rocks. Check out this one-woman “Couch Patrol”:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L3_LVsUOt3o

Positive Training

Perhaps shaking cans or stern commands aren’t your cup of tea. You may be interested in positive training techniques using a clicker and treats. In the video below, Pam’s Dog Academy demonstrates how this might be accomplished in your home:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2BHtUJBMv90

Additional Resources

• Pamela Reid (animal behaviorist): Keep your dog off the couch
• Jolanta Benal (certified dog trainer): How to keep dogs off furniture
• Dog Training for Dummies: Teach the “off” command

Photo: Dustin and Jenae/Flickr

Source: How to Train a Dog to Stay Off the Couch

Written by Roseann Lahey Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

Why is my cat chewing cardboard?

Whenever company comes over, I always get funny looks and questions about the pile of cardboard in the corner of the living room. When I’m finishing ensuring them that I haven’t developed a new habit, I explain that the cat likes to play in them and chew the corners of the cardboard boxes. My last visitor asked why, and I offered a few explanations.

Possible Reasons

Some cats are just plain bored. Maybe you’re gone all day for work, busy with other things, the cat is stressed or doesn’t have enough toys. Chewing on the box is something to do and allows them to make a mess.

Cats also have a predatory instinct to hunt and kill, and in the wild cats may tear and rip off parts of their prey before eating them. Chewing off parts of the cardboard box or ripping it apart with their claws may be mimicking this behavior.

But the behavior can also be related to health issues. Cats can have inflamed or irritated gums that need rubbing or itching, and a cardboard corner does just the trick. Kittens also teeth and lose teeth like humans do, so that could be the culprit in younger cats.

Diet can be another concern. Is your cat getting enough nutrition? Is the food you buy adequate for your cat’s needs? Check the label of the cat food to see what’s in it. Some foods have additives for taste more than actual nutrition for your cat.

Just as dogs like to “mark their spot,” cats can leave their scent on things also. Chewing on the cardboard may be the cat’s way of saying “I was here” or “This is mine.”

The smell of the box can also be a factor. What was in the box before it was empty? Certain foods or strong smells may linger, and your cat may be picking up on this. If you’ve recently moved, and a box was used to transport items from the old house, your cat may still smell the old house and be drawn to that particular box.

But your cat’s habit could be totally related to texture: your cat may simply enjoy the texture of the cardboard when chewing or ripping it with its teeth.

What to Do

First, make sure your cat is not ingesting a large quantity of cardboard. While there may be a reason for the behavior, it’s not healthy for a cat to keep eating it. Check the lips, teeth and gums for inflammation, bleeding, lost or loose teeth or any cuts. If you notice any of these symptoms, call your veterinarian to schedule a dental checkup and possible cleaning.

More toys can provide a fun way to spend the time for your cat, so evaluate the toys you have and see if a few more additions will help.

Try to add in some one-on-one play time, too. We all get busy with work and recurring demands and sometimes only do the minimum work needed to keep our pets going. A few minutes a day playing with your cat or showing them affection may ease his need to attack the cardboard so frequently. You can also remove the boxes out of your cat’s reach and replace with toys, a new bed or hiding place.

This cat is clearly chewing the cardboard for reasons other than food, since he spits out the pieces:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kutQOVxu2Uc

Photo: Mrguilt/Flickr

Source: Why Does My Cat Chew Cardboard Boxes?

Written by Kristine Lacoste Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

Most domestic cats are extremely social animals. They want to have friends, and that includes feline friends as well as friends of other species. However, not all cats are going to become fast friends with other cats. Just as with humans, friendships take time to develop. If someone threw you in a room with a person you have never met and had nothing in common with, you probably wouldn’t become friends instantaneously. So, don’t expect miracles; expect some work.

Bringing Home Kitty

Adding a new kitty to your home? When you have other cats, you need to be very cautious. The other felines have already bonded. They could consider your new cat an intruder and gang up on him and attack him. Avoid this at all costs.

You will need to have your other kitties secluded and away from the main living area. It would be wise to have a cat carrier to bring your new baby into your home. Place the carrier into the most used room of the home, such as the living room or family room.

Sit next to the carrier, but don’t open it. Let the cat take in the sights, sounds and smells of his new home. Keep reassuring him that all is well and that he will be safe with you. Let him stay in the crate for about 30 minutes. This way he can understand that he is in a new place but that he is safe inside the carrier.

Walk This Way

Once your new family member has settled down in the carrier, it’s time to shake things up. Double-check that all the members of your household understand that the other cats must be kept away for now. Once that is done, you can let your new cat out of the carrier. Have a litter box as well as food and water available to him; the stress of the strange new environment will probably have made him thirsty and have to use the litter box.

They Call Him the Wanderer

Let your new kitty wander about the room. Don’t be concerned if he hides. This is a normal reaction to being in new surroundings that have the scent of other felines. If you have children, do not allow them to try to drag him out of his hiding place! That is never a good idea. The new cat will come out when he feels comfortable enough to do so. Only then can you begin to gently pet him and allow your other human family members interact with him.

Proper Introductions

Once the new cat has loved on all of the humans in the household and has wandered about the room (dispersing his scent), put him back inside the carrier. He might not be thrilled about being confined again, but it is essential for proper introductions. Be sure that the carrier is close by so you can thwart any unacceptable behavior by your other cats.

Allow one kitty at a time to come into the room and take in the scent of their soon-to-be new friend. Yes, the cats might bat at each other through the carrier door, and if any hissing occurs, banish the loose cat to a time out for a while.

Do this with each feline family member. It’s important that they get to know one another’s scents before allowing them to mingle. Remember the rule: one at a time. Don’t allow the whole crew to converge on a new addition as this could be a recipe for disaster.

After the Initial Interactions

The Humane Society suggests keeping your new cat in his own small room with a bed and familiar toys. Next, swap out your new cat’s bed or blanket with one belonging to another cat. You might want to keep the new cat secluded in his own room for as long as a few weeks, letting him out several times a day under careful supervision, until every pet gets along with the others.

Watch this quick video for more tips:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2k71jXwmys

Additional Resources

• Humane Society: Introducing a new cat to other cats
• ASPCA: Introducting your cat to a new cat

Photo: gigijin/Flickr

Source: How to Introduce a New Cat to Other Cats

Written by Roseann Lahey Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.

"Me? Mess with tinsel?"... Cats and Christmas safety

Watching a kitten climb the stem of a Christmas tree is undeniably adorable, but beware: Danger lurks as well. The holiday season is fraught with peril for curious kitties that are easily overlooked in the commotion and rush, but a few simple precautions will help to ensure your cat’s safety.

Christmas Trees

Christmas trees attract cats like magnets attract metal. Unfortunately, the Christmas tree harbors several dangers for inquisitive cats, and the potential for a big mess and electrical hazard if the cat knocks it down. The safest of all solutions is not to have a tree or to put the tree in a room to which the cat does not have access. The next best step is to take precautions.

Trees should be made secure with a heavy base and guy-wires. Do not let the cat chew on the electrical wires, so either cover the wires or spray on a bittering agent.

Cats also do not mix well with breakable decorations, so avoid hanging crystal and other fragile materials from the lower branches. The same goes for any that could be swallowed. Valuable or cherished decorations should not be put on the tree at all.

Tinsel is another no-no for cat-loving households. A cat could easily swallow tinsel and suffer blocked intestines. Pine needles and preservatives or aspirin in the tree’s water can harm a cat as well, so needles should be swept up regularly and access to the water prevented.

Ribbons and Bows

Ribbons on packages also call kitty’s name and present another danger for the digestive system. Since your cats are likely to play with presents under the tree, leave off the ribbon or keep the gifts in the closet. Put the ribbon away after wrapping gifts and clean it up after opening gifts.

Noxious Plants

Some plants traditionally enjoyed during the holidays are poisonous to cats. Those plants include, to varying degrees, mistletoe, holly, lilies, poinsettia and paperwhites. These plants should be kept out of kitty’s reach or better yet, out of the house altogether.

Table Food

Just as with Thanksgiving, cats should not eat table scraps from your holiday meal. Some foods, like onions or chocolate, will make them sick or could even kill them. Cats that are not accustomed to table scraps can get sick just from the change from the norm. It’s best to stick with your cat’s normal diet and feeding routine to avoid upset stomachs.

Candles

More than one cat whisker or paw has been singed over the years when a cat decides to inspect a candle up close. A flickering tail can also easily find its way into the flame of a candle or knock it down, potentially creating a fire hazard and a waxy mess. If you light candles, either keep the cat out of the room or watch her very carefully.

The Good News: Free Gifts!

Cats love boxes and crinkled paper and can have a blast “helping” to open presents and then playing with the wrappings (but not the ribbon). Keep your camera on hand!

This article — which originally appeared at http://cattime.com/holiday-safety-for-your-cat.html — has been republished here with permission from CatTime.

Photo: Anna Oates/Flickr

Source: Holiday Safety for Your Cat

Written by CatTime Copyright 2012, Pets Adviser® pet advice.